First of all, :welcome2: to the Forum!

Listened to your video. Here are my thoughts:

The starter seems to be turning too slow (at least to me). So start by doing this: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/2755252-post5.html and this: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...-6-5l-diesel-engine/163087-grounds-grounds-grounds-importance-good-grounds.html

If doing those two things do not help increase starter speed, then I would replace the batteries. With the age of them, especially the 5 yr old one, and that they are not a matched set......Get a matched set of batteries with at least 750 cold crank amps.

Also check the battery cable lead to the starter. Make sure they are clean and tight.

If none of that works, then you are looking at a new starter, or having your starter rebuilt.

Also make sure there is a bracket on the front of the starter that is bolted to the block. If there is not one, get one on there ASAP! The starter will crack the block where the two mounting bolts are if there is no bracket. See the FAQ's "Starter Bracket" reference and look at the links.

 

Based upon the mileage and unknown past service record I would suspect knocking injectors and replace them. They need to be replaced every 100k (miles) anyhow so it would be a good investment. Even if it doesn't cure your problem it certainly eliminates a prime suspect. ~FH

 

Sounds to me you have a few non working Glow plugs as well.
IMO to get your truck in good shape and starting good.
1.Check, clean and tighten all battery cables & grounds.
2.Replace all glow plugs. Don't bother testing them just do them all.
3.Get 2 new matched batteries.
4.New injectors.
I listed from least cost to most. You don't have to do them all now if budget does not allow. But if you get them taken care of while the weather is warm it will save you many headaches next winter. start with #1 (Free) and work your way down the list.

You really should be using an additive like Power service Diesel kleen. These older trucks need extra lube for the pump and injectors. Many here, including me, also use TCW2, outboard 2 stroke mix. 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel to lube the pump/injectors. It may even quiet the ticking. But fron the vid you posted I really did not hear anything abnormal Except the slow starting. These are noisy engines. If they don't sound like the world is coming to an end when you start them up there is something wrong

 

sounds like i need to do the injectors. Thanks Tommygunner I will do all of the suggested options. In terms of injectors i have noticed sellers like Accurate Diesel and SS Diesel Supply online. Are these guys reputable? Have any of you had experience with them? Thanks again, very useful info! I only have so much time to spend on the truck so narrowing it down helps huge amounts.

 

Rock auto has some of the best prices on injectors. I have bought from SS. Don't have a problem with them. Some here don't like him because he hypes his products. You cant believe everything you read there. The injectors on his site for 300 are most likely rebuilt. Don't fall for the marine injector hype. Stock injectors are all you need.
Rock auto has New Standard motor product injectors for the same price. I have not heard any complaints about them. If you want to spend more AC delco or Delphi injectors are excellent choice. Stay away from Chinese injectors.
Never delt with accurate diesel but many here like them.

 

So I bought Those New Standard Motor Products Injectors, They are made in china though as i noticed on the package. However they did not have the Bosch ones when i ordered a month ago and now they do though! Oh well, I heard the Bosch are made in India anyways so i am not sure how much more reliable those would be. I will get them pop tested/calibrated by a local diesel shop before i put them in and let you guys know how they turn out.

 

Any update on the injector install?
Did is solve the ticking issue?

 

So I got her back together yesterday finally after a couple weeks of on and off wrenching. I changed all the injectors and the glow plugs, and while I had it open I checked all my lifters which all looked and felt good. the good news is it starts awesome now so that problem is solved. The bad news is the ticking is still there. I had all the new injectors tested and calibrated. The shop said none of the injectors leaked but their popping pressures were all over the place. Unfortunately though one of the injectors leaks and I am going to have to pull it out to see what's going on with it. Furthermore I cracked that stupid heater core inlet tube at the bracket weld so that needs fixing. I found a fix on the sure about how to do it with a hose, a barb and a aluminum rod. We are off to a rocky start but I still have confidence she can be fixed!

 

New injectors will tick for a while, they need to work them selves in, try using lucas upper cylinder lube and injector cleaner" great stuff for lubing injectors, I had an injector stick and throw a balance code, ran that through the tank( after intense investigating of course) and it cleared it right up, code gone, knock ("tick") gone 700 km of driving and that in the tank still hasn't come back.
Though I'll be doing injectors soon since it happened once, it could again, thought I'd suggest the lucas even as an injector "break-in" lube.

 

I'll try that. I have some suspicion that the ticking is still fuel related somehow because when I put the stethoscope all over the engine the injector lines are the loudest, so loud in fact I almost need hearing protection just to listen to it! maybe it's the injector pump that needs lube so we'll see what happens with the treatment.

 

Update on the work: So I was wrong, the truck still runs like poo for the first few seconds on a cold start. It turns over for way less time but still sputters and coughs. I am still suspecting GP system maybe? I checked for power at all the plugs when i changed them and it was good, the plugs themselves are brand new duraterms. Maybe i need to change the connectors at the plugs, they look original still.Additionally I still haven't solved that damn leaking #7 injector, its driving me crazy. I thought it was the rubber nipple cap because i saw it weeping from a hole in it, but then i put it all together again and it is still leaking. That truck is going to give me a heart attack. Argh. I am going to have to pull it out again. i will try the talcum powder trick i found somewhere on this forum to see if i can pinpoint the location of the leak. Why are the leaky injectors always the hardest to reach ones!?

 

Murphy, that's the reason, Murphy, if he wasn't dead I tell ya I'd kill him myself!:HiHi:

When I changed to the bosch gp's from the 9g delcos I too had a harder time starting then before,9g's heat up fast but burn up and swell faster too, they covered for the other issue. All the GP system worked great, it actually was the ECT sensor in the coolant crossover telling the ecm warmer temps so it shortened the GP time.

While sitting for any length of time a fuel leak under pressure can become a air into the fuel system, so I'd focus on that first.

 

Just a thought. I dont like this but is a way to find out if the ticking is fuel related.
Rev the engine to 3 000 rpm and let your foot of the gas immediately, so it returns to idle.
Now you have an idea of how the engine sounds.
Now do the same again. Rev it up to about 3 000 rpm and this time turn the ignition off. This causes IP to close and no fuel is being injected and the ticking should be gone. If it is still there, then its not fuel related.
Oh and if rpm drop to about idle, turn key on so the engine idles. Just for the turbo sake.

Hope this sheds a bit of light.

 

Agree with 65madness.
I would fix the leaky injector first.

Some injector leaks from where the injector body meets or where the injector thread to the hole.

GPs got nothing to do after the engine is running.
It aids in starting but it is not a factor after engine is running.

 

Sounds good lets put out the fires first (literally seeing how its dripping on the exhaust) and I'll let you know what happens. The injectors were pressure tested and calibrated by a local shop. I'll try to see if its leaking at the body division, maybe the shop didn't' re assemble it appropriately after installing a shim or something like that.

 

Did the ticking noise change at all? Did you use new return lines?

If the noise didn't change, I'd say you have a rocker arm or lifter issue. How did you check the lifters?

 

Hi Turbovanman,

The ticking did not change. I did use a Delphi return line kit. I did remove the valve covers when i checked the injectors and all the lifters seemed solid to the touch anyways. There was no up/down play in them. They had some side to side play but I was told this was normal. all the plastic buttons looked in good condition and were all in place. I am hoping maybe it's this externally leaking injector that is still ticking but who knows. I'll fix the leaking injector and hopefully it sounds better. Otherwise the only other thing it could be is the IP (I've changed the lift pump, OPS, filter, all the injectors and all the return lines. I am running it until its dead if it is! The IP was changed less than 60K kilometers ago. Already have a thousand dollars of parts in this thing and I only put 300kms on it since i bought it in March. Gotta start getting some return on investment!

 

Oh and as I had mentioned in a previous post when I use the stethoscope to find the ticking noise it is exponentially louder on the injector lines more than anywhere else. Like I'd say 20 times louder than the next loudest place.

 

Ok. Usually changing something that was bad would change the sound, so to me, that rules out injectors. They will be like as they are mechanical in nature and require pressure to over come the internal spring.

IP's don't make that type of noise so I'd lean towards valve train. I would just drive it and see what happens. Try running an oil cleaner before you next oil change and add some Lucas after. That's fixed some lifter noise's for me.

 

Which oil cleaner would you recommend?

 

Seafoam works well. Run it for the allotment of time recommended on the can in the crank case before you do a fresh change. Also, choose a quality oil filter. I always run a duramax ACDelco # PF 2232.. or a cross referenced WIX. Choose a good 15w-40 diesel oil, and some Lucas oil additive.

 

Is that the stuff called seafoam motor treatment? BTW, Update on the leaking injector, not only was my return line nipple stop fix not working but it was missing altogether! The injector was just merrily spewing my expensive diesel all over the highway. Have no ideahow that came off. Anyways, I put a new plug on it and I will monitor it.

 

For the oil additive, what about that rislone seal repair stuff?

 

I like LubriMoly oil flush products, they work awesome, SF is good stuff too.

I really like the Lucas stuff, and I've tried a lot.

A good synthetic 5w40 can't hurt either.

 

Is that the lucas engine oil stop leak stuff? They have a whole whack of different products. I was going to use rotella 15w40 with it.

 

Stop leak and cleaner are 2 different things.

For SeaFoam, just get the plain SeaFoam.

I am leery on doing more than that.
Stop leak never stop a leak if the leak caused by something mechanical like a hole.
The stop leak can stop a leak by swelling the gasket/o-ring if they are somewhat dry.
But it will not swell any gasket/o-ring that is already breaking.

As for cleaner, it will help if the noise is caused by some build up internally and that build up can be cleaned. So, it will not hurt. But if it is caused by something that is worn out, then it will not help. Oil thickener may help lessen the shear on those worn out parts, therefore, reducing the noise.

This is just some common sense after reading so many forum on different issues.