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Old 05-16-2007, 10:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
lcgarage
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No Start, No WTS light….It IS the grounds!

...and details on my Ignition Switch replacement and removal of aftermarket security system

It’s been weeks not able to start truck. I’ve been here reading, and on the weekends applying what I’ve learned from this forum to my 97’ K3500.
Cleaning/ Replacing Grounds fixed the problem!

Repair Details

97’ GMC K3500 With “NO START”


(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)



From from diagnostic table
1. Does the engine Turn over? YES
1a. Does the engine start? NO
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & duration lit? NO

-There were no blown fuses.
-The ECT temp sensors measured good at 3.6k on a 65degF day. (Reference table lists 3520ohms at 68F)

Now I know the PCM is NOT getting power (or gnd). A second indicator was the Code reader, which was not able to establish contact with PCM.

CLEAN /REPLACE GROUNDS
-The battery connections were in bad shape



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Grounds were next. The aux gnd to eng had to be replaced


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Aux Gnd After repair/ cleaning


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Rear Engine GND Before cleaning


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And After (but before tightening). Can be done with out removing trans check/fill tube.


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and finally engine to frame ground was cleaned on the right passenger side rear of engine. I took the right rubber fender shield off to get at /find it.



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That really would have done it.....but because I had changed the ignition switch first, the aftermarket security system needed to be reconnected OR removed.

REMOVE IGINITION KILL (from previous owner aftermarket security system)
-The security system was removed and easy to see how it works by removing glove compartment door and see the break in the 2 ign (pink) wire off of the PCM.

Security Keypad



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Ign Kill reconnected (C-clamp on button to keep light off)



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-BEFORE cleaning gnds I decided to change ignition switch. At the time I figured IGN had to be the problem. I found changing ign switch EASIER than it was to find, clean, and repair all the grounds! BUT it didn’t fix the problem (actually caused another problem with security system) it cost $125 but I'm glad to have a NEW one in there given the contact design and significance this switch plays in circuit. I also knew that some day my 2 year old was going to push the right combination of buttons on the keypad to activate security, and I’m not sure how to enter the code (even though previous. owner has code written on visor).

REPLACING IGNITION SWITCH
New ignition switch



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Removing bottom cover torx screws from steering wheel



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Tilt lever pulls right out



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Ignition switch shown with bottom cover removed



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Sliding Allen Wrench Under Top Cover To Pop Key cylinder out



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Key cylinder out to remove top cover



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process shown with top cover removed for detail

[/URL]
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-I didn’t have and external torx socket, but was able to improvise by using a ¼” drive sockets for the screw holding top cover
Figure 5/32” deep socket on external torx



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Using 5/32” socket on external torx to remove top cover



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and a #6 cap head screw in vise grips to remove the ignition switch screws (longer ~2” would have worked even better, to give more turning room)


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Bought a external torx set a autoparts store, but still had to use #6 screw since the set didn’t go down that small in size.

Many thanks to the Diesel Place’s 6.5L moderators, knkreb, Turbine Doc, and gmctd. As well as the good advice from many others.
-lcgarage
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Last edited by gmctd; 07-04-2007 at 08:01 PM. Reason: cleanup 4 July
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
gmctd
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Excellent post, dude - show 'n' tell rules...............

Nice truck.
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
j_k_auto
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Nice pics. Great show and tell
Yea looks like the grounds did need some cleaning.
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Old 05-17-2007, 01:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
lcgarage
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Thanks, don't know why all the extra repeated line show up "(imagage has been resized)" and "A<href....".

I forgot to include this V+ connection from eng mounted fuse box. This one looked bad from the outside, but when took it apart and looked at terminal surface they where clean and appeared to be Silver plated, so I just put back as is.


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The mice had been busy too! packing seat foam in cab distribution box


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and around temp sensor


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I also think they ATE through this cheese flavored +12V orange wire to fog light, but I really hope not.


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There gone for now, I installed a NEW security system (3 KIA's).

(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)


But don't plan on telling wife about this one.
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
wayne grauel
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Did you think to check main fuse panel...

(sorry.. if i missed it.)

ECM 1 and 2..
please excuse if i missed it.. I know how annoying that can be but I'm in a hurry and did not have time go over what is a very detailed post...

if it is.. then could be glow circuit or the ECM (glow circuit will thrown and ECM fuse 1 i believe!

Wayne
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
wayne grauel
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nice looking truck BTW !!!!wayne

except for the mouse!
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
instarx
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Just don't get into your truck barefoot! Excellent series of pictures. Very informative.
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
wayne grauel
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I feel like an idiot!!!

"cleaning grounds fixed the problem..."

How on earth did I miss that... in bold even!!!

my apologies for doing the exact thing i complain about.. not reading the post all the way (or skipping the first lines and browsing through it.

nice job!

Wayne
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
Dieseldad97
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Holy Cow.......great job!!!

I had my column apart a few weeks ago and could not get that key cylinder out. You used an allen key huh? So what was the trick? I really would like to know.

Anyways, guys like you are what makes this an excellent place.
Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
lcgarage
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Thx! Big credit to moderators, knkreb, Turbine Doc, and gmctd. I'm just the color guy.

This is how I removed key cyc. You may have to pull on key cyc at same time. The manual says to us a 90deg pick.
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