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LLY Injector Harness Repair

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282K views 301 replies 188 participants last post by  bighawg  
#1 ·
Well, I've seen a few people asking so I thought I would put something together. Sideswiper was up the other day and we took a few pictures. I'll talk about his method and Gm's.

Let's talk about sideswiper's way first. It's quick and easy, and can be done on the side of the road if needed. #2 and #7 are the trouble makers. #2 is on the drivers side front, and #7 is on the passenger side rear. Both are accessible without removing anything. The picture below shows the #2 injector.
 

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Discussion starter · #2 ·
The easiest way I have found to remove the harness from the injector is to apply a little pressure as if you were assembling it, then press down on the tab that my arrow points to. Once the tab is depressed simply remove the connector.
 

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Now with the connector unplugged its time to work it up where you can get your hands on it good. Take an ice pick or a scratch awl and line it up with the slot. In the picture below I have marked each location with a cross-hair.
 

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
This next part can get you hurt, so be careful here.

Take the ice pick and force it clear through the connector. It doesn't have to poke clear out the other side, but you must be sure you went clear though the internal spade connector. This creates a new "crimp" to once again fit tight on the injector. Now simply reinstall the harness and your done. Thanks Scott AKA sideswiper!!
 

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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Now lets talk about GM's fix, harness service kit part # 980117958.

Below is the kit as it comes from the General. The replacement harness at the top of the picture is for #7 and the one at the bottom right is for #2. Also the larger bracket on the left is for #7, and the smaller one on the right is for #2.
 

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Lets talk about #7 first. Start by removing the inner fenderwell, but taking the filter mount off and moving the filter out of the way will make it a little easier.

The bracket bolts on to the valve cover in existing holes using the two new bolts. Now plug the new harness in to the injector. It has plastic plugs that snap into the holes in the new bracket. This supports the harness completely. After the bracket and harness are installed simply cut the wires and use the butt connectors provided. All but the wire splicing I did from the top. I also soldered and shrink wrapped mine. I did it several months ago so the parts are a little dirty in the picture.
 

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
#2 is even easier.

I removed the red electrical junction box marked battery(+) and it's mounting bracket from in front of the valve cover. Once again I connected the new harness to the injector first, then bolted the new support bracket to the existing hole using the existing bolt that supported the old harness. Wire tie the harness to the bracket and make your wire connection the way you prefer.

Reinstall all the parts. That's it, your done!
 

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I recommend every one carry a scanner if possible. As far as this issue, IIRC the ecm will reset itself after so many cycles. Hopefully someone else will confirm this.:)
 
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Discussion starter · #81 ·
Sorry to hear about your issues. #8 does not really look that bad to me. If needed, you could always disconnect the fuel lines and strap them out of the way. I would test "stab" mine for you, but its really cold outside!;)
 
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Discussion starter · #83 ·
The shaft is simple. Make a reference mark on the 2 shafts for reassembly. Pull the upper bolt out. Slide the inner shaft in towards the steering wheel, and then pivot the shaft out of the way.
 
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Discussion starter · #158 ·
A scanner would help tell you what was causing the limp. There are a ton of things that can put them in limp mode.
 
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