Diesel Place banner

1 - 20 of 302 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I've seen a few people asking so I thought I would put something together. Sideswiper was up the other day and we took a few pictures. I'll talk about his method and Gm's.

Let's talk about sideswiper's way first. It's quick and easy, and can be done on the side of the road if needed. #2 and #7 are the trouble makers. #2 is on the drivers side front, and #7 is on the passenger side rear. Both are accessible without removing anything. The picture below shows the #2 injector.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
The easiest way I have found to remove the harness from the injector is to apply a little pressure as if you were assembling it, then press down on the tab that my arrow points to. Once the tab is depressed simply remove the connector.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Now with the connector unplugged its time to work it up where you can get your hands on it good. Take an ice pick or a scratch awl and line it up with the slot. In the picture below I have marked each location with a cross-hair.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
This next part can get you hurt, so be careful here.

Take the ice pick and force it clear through the connector. It doesn't have to poke clear out the other side, but you must be sure you went clear though the internal spade connector. This creates a new "crimp" to once again fit tight on the injector. Now simply reinstall the harness and your done. Thanks Scott AKA sideswiper!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Now lets talk about GM's fix, harness service kit part # 980117958.

Below is the kit as it comes from the General. The replacement harness at the top of the picture is for #7 and the one at the bottom right is for #2. Also the larger bracket on the left is for #7, and the smaller one on the right is for #2.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Lets talk about #7 first. Start by removing the inner fenderwell, but taking the filter mount off and moving the filter out of the way will make it a little easier.

The bracket bolts on to the valve cover in existing holes using the two new bolts. Now plug the new harness in to the injector. It has plastic plugs that snap into the holes in the new bracket. This supports the harness completely. After the bracket and harness are installed simply cut the wires and use the butt connectors provided. All but the wire splicing I did from the top. I also soldered and shrink wrapped mine. I did it several months ago so the parts are a little dirty in the picture.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
#2 is even easier.

I removed the red electrical junction box marked battery(+) and it's mounting bracket from in front of the valve cover. Once again I connected the new harness to the injector first, then bolted the new support bracket to the existing hole using the existing bolt that supported the old harness. Wire tie the harness to the bracket and make your wire connection the way you prefer.

Reinstall all the parts. That's it, your done!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Rick,

Do you have any idea what the GM fix costs? I know local dealers may have different markups, but just so I can get an idea.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,556 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, not a clue. Maybe someone that's had it done will post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,579 Posts
When I checked on this last week, the connector kit is on backorder, some various dealers around the nation came up on the parts locator as having 1 or 2 in stock, but not alot.

part# 98017958

gmpartsdirect 156.88 shipped (unless you are NC resident have to add tax)

List price from a dealer for the kit is 216.00
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Nice job - thanks for the info!!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
569 Posts
So, are you saying the bottom-line problem is a bad connection between the harness and the injector? I thought the issue was the wiring inside the harness was being pulled away from its connector, but your fix makes it sound like we just have a "disconnect" between the connectors themselves.

Thanks,

Joseph
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Rick,
Sideswipers method is road side fix rather than a pro-active maintenance correct? :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
MY "FIX"should last the life of your truck.i had 100000 on my first "fix".when i swapped motors it came with a harness on it and it did the same thing.it has had the "fix" for 40000 miles so far without any recurrence.i would definatly try my fix before i spent 216.00.you have nothing to lose since its free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,400 Posts
THANK YOU SIDESWIPER ! ! ! This is exactly the kind of solution I was waiting for. I haven't had a problem, but I intend to travel into the wild and this had me very concerned.

I already did the heater-hose cushion for the harness at the FICM to prevent rubbing through. Now I just need to buy an ice pick for the 2/7 connectors and I'm all set! (Well, besides doing JB Weld on the T-case and carrying a spare fuel filter.) Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
I thought the 2/7 injector harness failure mode was a broken wire at the injectors? Or is this a different problem all together?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
no the broken wire is a rub through problem on bracket.the 2-7 problem is a bad connection at the injector.eventually it happens to all of them.i have had them all set a code.the ones i didnt go ahead and fix before it happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
Hmm, interesting! I've had my ficm wiring rub through on the bracket before...freaked me out when it started snowing soot from my exhaust pipe.

I guess I'll be performing this "fix" at my earliest convienience :) Thanks Sideswiper!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,400 Posts
If I were to get a 2/7 connector failure, and I then performed the ice pick trick to fix it (let's assume I didn't fix it until I had a problem) . . . will I have to reset the codes before she runs right again?

I don't care about whether a CEL stays lit up but I want to return to full power. Do I need to buy and carry something (an OBDII tool with reset capability, or ???) along with the ice pick?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
jake111;1667205; said:
If I were to get a 2/7 connector failure, and I then performed the ice pick trick to fix it (let's assume I didn't fix it until I had a problem) . . . will I have to reset the codes before she runs right again?

I don't care about whether a CEL stays lit up but I want to return to full power. Do I need to buy and carry something (an OBDII tool with reset capability, or ???) along with the ice pick?

Thanks.
Hey!

That is a very good question and seeing I was planning the same avenue of attack I wish someone would answer Jake111's post!
 
1 - 20 of 302 Posts
Top