cool man, subscribed...

 

I got the bracket built this morning. Ended up repurposing the bracket I had built for the walbro - so it doesn't look quite right. Pump is mounted. Cut off the deutsch connector and put on weatherpack. Jumped the relay momentarily and the pump runs. Still need to hook up lines and tighten fittings. Stuck doing family stuff now. Will try to get back to it this afternoon.

Having trouble loading more than one photo at a time...

 

Ok. I'm back home on the computer now. My phone was trying to load all of the photos with the same file name. DP didn't like that and I couldn't figure out how to fix it. Here are the photos I was trying to post.

 

I did get the pump hooked up and running this afternoon. It pegged my low pressure/vacuum gauge when I checked the pressure at the T valve at idle. I decided this would be a great time to install my 30psi fuel pressure gauge. Should have been a simple job, but I ran into a couple problems:
1. The gauge sender would not fit in the location I had left myself when I did my FTB install.
2. The hose to the T valve was in very rough shape where it attached to the FFM and was leaking fuel into the valley.

I tried indexing my fittings differently to make more room for the sender, but eventually had to pull the FFM and put in different fittings. I think it will fit now, but I didn't get the FFM completely back in place yet to verify.

Luckily I had a piece of 1/4" fuel line in stock that I could use to replace the T valve hose. I struggled for a while getting the new hose to route under the intake, but it is in and attached.

Here is a string of crappy photos showing the pump in place and connected. I had a terrible time getting good photos. There is just too much stuff in the way when you try to get back far enough to show the system. I tried for quite a while and these were the best I could do. The pump is located in the same place as the original.

 

Looking at the photos, I see I still need to get some harness wrap on the fuel pump wires.

I probably won't be able to make much more progress until Wednesday.

 

nice, looking forward to the seat of the pants difference you see/feel from that lift pump.....

 

nice

Thanks!

looking forward to the seat of the pants difference you see/feel from that lift pump.....

Think I'll notice anything? I couldn't tell the difference between the OEM pump and the FRC-10 when I made that switch. I know some guys really seem to notice, but I just couldn't tell. Certainly not like changing to the 4" exhaust anyway!!:coolnana:

 

nice, on my old 6.2 I had 3 stock lift pumps fail in less than 3 years.... of course advanced brand... I've been looking at doing something like this. I can't hardly use any trash national parts because they are all cutom fit crap...

 

Great write up.

What kind of fuel are you using?

Do you already have a reflashed PCM? Between higher fueling capability and that turbo upgrade you are looking at, you'll be happy to have the beefy LP.

 

Great write up.

Thanks!

What kind of fuel are you using?

#2 Diesel. Once in a while 5% bio. I have run some home heating oil that I got for free, but that was probably less than 50 gallons. In the winter I add Howes diesel treat and in the summer add some 2 stroke oil for lubricity.

Do you already have a reflashed PCM?

Not yet. Waiting for you to start tuning OBD2!!

Here's a photo of the bad hose to the T-valve. No surprise that this thing was leaking.

 

nice work, I am wondering why they sent those hose fittings/connections with the pump, instead of threaded hose barbs (higher-flowing) ?. try cetane boost additive, it's like running old gasoline, then filling up with premium. a few ounces vastly improves fuel economy too.

 

I am wondering why they sent those hose fittings/connections with the pump, instead of threaded hose barbs (higher-flowing) ?

FASS sells this pump as a kit intended to be a bolt in upgrade for a Cummins. It appears they tried to make the install as easy as they could for that application.

 

How loud is it?

 

Tough to say for sure just yet. It is a gerotor pump so more of a whine noise than the OEM thumpa-thumpa-thumpa. I can't hear it with the engine running. Seems to maybe be about the same as OEM volume. I can let you know once I get everything back together.

 

Just a quick update:
I got the truck back together last night and drove it to work this morning. So far, this is what I've seen for fuel pressures.
Waiting for glow plugs: 18psi
Idling after first starting: 22psi
Cruising on freeway: 20psi
Hills on freeway: 19-20psi
Wot acceleration: 15-16psi

 

does the injection pump sound different with that much fuel pressure? also, does it behave differently?

 

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1 Week Update

After driving it for a week, I've noticed no difference in the way the truck performs. I've been meaning to do a WOT run with the Gtech, to compare against old results, but I haven't made that happen yet.

The % load as displayed on my ultragauge is unchanged on the highway - So this pump isn't making the DS4 deliver any more fuel than what the controller knows about. WOT throttle feels pretty much the same.

The pump is pretty quiet. Probably slightly quieter than stock. I can hear it while waiting for the glow plugs, but I have to listen for it. If you are at all hard of hearing or if you aren't paying attention, you wouldn't hear it.

My fuel system should now be up to supplying everything the DS4 can do!

 

Gtech Data

I ran the truck with the Gtech, but the data I got doesn’t really tell me anything believable. The graph is attached below. I’ve really been debating with myself whether I should even post this or not since there is a strong likelihood that the data is garbage.

Note that this graph is horsepower vs time (seconds). This will not look like your typical HP vs. RPM graph. Note that as the speed (time) increases, the HP is going to get lower just due to the wind resistance that the truck has to overcome. The peaks/drops that show up at around 3.5 to 4 seconds and again around 8 to 10 seconds are the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

Runs 1 and 2 were done almost a year ago and I cannot remember the details. I believe the weather was significantly warmer, which would tend to lower the power somewhat. I think run 1 was done right before I installed the exhaust and run 2 was right after. If my memory is correct AND the data is correct, than this indicates that updating from stock to 4” exhaust (still factory downpipe) made almost no difference in power. My butt dyno says otherwise – but perhaps the butt dyno is being influenced by the ear dyno?? Seems strange.

Run 3 was done a couple days ago. The only significant change I can think of since run 2 is the lift pump. The horsepower is showing a significant improvement and I’m getting to the shift points earlier (accelerating faster). I do believe that I’m getting to the shift points earlier and that would certainly require more power – but there are parts of this graph showing a 40 HP increase. 40 HP just by installing a better lift pump?? There is no way. I’m missing something or the data is just flat out wrong.

Take it, leave it, call me a liar – heck I’ll call myself a liar. But PLEASE don’t go telling anyone they will gain 40 HP by changing their fuel pump based on what you are seeing here.

 

I don't doubt you gained high RPM and high load horsepower from a LP that can supply the IP with good pressure at those times. Some increase could be cooler air. While the method may not be accurate, I believe this is a decent way of comparison. Like all the numbers could be off by a factor of 2, but all of them are, so the curves could shift, etc, but shift together. So maybe you really gained 80hp

 

Woo hoo, proof a better lift pump will increase power by 40 whp. Take that SS Diesel and their 80 hp computers and 40 hp injectors,

 

How has this been working out for you? I just got a good deal on the same pump but I'll probably modify the spring to lower the pressure a few PSI.

 

How has this been working out for you?

No complaints at all. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this pump to anyone.

I just got a good deal on the same pump but I'll probably modify the spring to lower the pressure a few PSI.

I'd leave the spring alone. The pressure isn't going to hurt the pump any. The DS4 has a separate housing pressure regulator that should prevent any kind of excessive pressure against your seals.

 

No complaints at all. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this pump to anyone.

I'd leave the spring alone. The pressure isn't going to hurt the pump any. The DS4 has a separate housing pressure regulator that should prevent any kind of excessive pressure against your seals.

Thanks for the info and for listing the fitting sizes. All very helpful info!

I'll link this thread for reference when I start my own next week.

 

Quick update on this:
My FASS has been making quite a bit of noise lately. It has been running fine for over 5 years and about 42k miles. That life is not horrible, but I expected better. A search seems to indicate that suction restriction is responsible for a lot of the noise complaints for FASS pumps, so I'll be checking for that first. I've never cleaned or replaced the fuel sock, so it could very easily be restricted.