Try running an extra dose of fuel conditioner with straight #2 diesel fuel. I'm personally not a big fan of this "veggie" thing. These electonic IP's can be very tempermental.
Next year coast to coast all diesel fuel on the street is going to be "ultra low sulfer". This stuff will kill any and all weak DS4 IP's if your not running with fuel conditioner.

 

Fuel going into pump and nothing coming out of return sounds like a $eized pump.

6.5L Electronic is not a good choice to be burning anything but diesel.

 

How about the mechanical pumps. Do they do ok, or should something different be used?

 

How hot was the veggie going in and what is the ambient temp there?

 

Update

The veggie was about 125 deg, which I know is on the low cold end. I thought since it was a 50/50 blend it might be OK. I was just going to switch it until I saw color at the Ip and thenAmbient is about 40.

After cranking and blowing out lines last night and this morning I can get it to cough and stop just shy of catching. That gives me hope that the IP isn't hosed but I'm still puzzled why there is't anything more than a few drops coming out of the open injector lines.

Keeping my fingers crossed and cranking the day away.

 

My guess would be that the fuel is too thick. BTW is your PMD off the pump since you are running heated fuel thru it?

 

Yes, the PMD was removed before I started experimenting. It is on a heat sink on the driver's side wall and hasn't given me a bit of trouble since I moved it.

She caught once and ran for a short while and I I thought I had her fixed but then it died again and I can no longer get her to cough. I'm recharging the batteries and will have a go at it again tonight. So far my only plan of attack is to open the injector lines and hope to get a steady stream of diesel. Is there anything else I should be looking at?

One other thing- when I crank I get much closer to starting (more coughing) with at least one injector open than with all of them closed. Trapped air in injector lines?

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

One other thing- when I crank I get much closer to starting (more coughing) with at least one injector open than with all of them closed. Trapped air in injector lines?

Thanks for everyone's help.

Maybe that's your problem rather than my too thick fuel theory.

 

Call me and I'll walk you through this.

I just got done with the same problem and wrote a huge post which got lost when I hit the post key. I don't have time to re-post it all so here is the condensed version. Basically you need to make sure your batteries are strong and that your starter is not running slow. My bet is that if your injectors are cracked and you are not getting fuel then you have one or two problems that are very likely. First you compressed air into the fuel system with your lift pump pushing while sucking air. You need to crank in three second bursts with rests after 5 tries. It may take up to 30 minutes to get fuel if you are air locked with compressed air. 2 your batteries are low and or your starter is weak. If you don't have enough revolutions the ecm will not send fuel and you won't start. Charge your batteries, change your weak starter and get a new one not a reman. If you want some ideas for more heat e-mail me or post a diagram of your sytem and I will make some reccomendations to improve heat. You need dry, clean, warm fuel or that Stanadyne IP will break. I believe you won't have any problems otherwise, and ther is no need to blend if you ar hot enough.

 

Just FYI:

There are quite a few 6.5 EFI's running on www.greasecar.com systems. I know this because we sell the FSD cooler setup to these guys.

Also, the DS pump does not need to have lines cracked to fire. It will push through just fine provided you have good fuel supply to it.

 

Thanks for the support everyone. I am sweating it out until tonight when I can give it another shot. The Haynes diesel manual said to give it 15 second spurts so I have been cranking the bejeesus out of it. I'll try the short bursts. I've had it on a charger and block heater all day and the batteries and starter are new.

It's also good to hear from the oil burners. After my 30 seconds of glory and then 12 hours of pain I was beginning to wonder if it was worth it, plus what I am going to do with the 500 gallons of oil I've collected!

Anybody near Dayton need oil? Even when I get it running I have more than I need for a while.

Thanks again!

 

might want to pop out the encoder for cleaning or a swap.

 

Startup

Hi Sorry to read your storry. First to restart pressurize you tank 3psi max true the fillup hole and open the other end at the filter until the fuel come or bleed at the lift pump for the mecanical pump that way you save lot of cranking time.

The first time you put bio mix into the tank it always remove the gum and varnish on all the internal part and block the filter or even the tank output somtime but after the shCensored is gone you should be o.k. :ro)

 

My guess is the encoder as DP said. It's a '94, have you checked the ALDL for a DTC?

 

Tried more versions of cleaning and purging, no luck. Pulled top off of IP and found what looks like thick egg-drop soup floating in the cavity. Sucked it all out and put in straight Diesel-911. Repeated purging/cranking and nothing to injectors. Pulled manifold and opened top injector hoses at the pump and still no go.

Code lamp was burned out so there may be some oldies stored in there as well:

DTC 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault
DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error
DTC 28 - Transmission Range Pressure Switch Circuit
DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 46 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit Fault
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 88 - ??? Dumba55 owner fault?

The shutoff solendoid (I asume at the opening of the IP) currently doesn't have its' plunger installed. The turbo was not all conencted the last times I tried to fire the pump. I assume that takes care of a few of the codes.

I started pulling the pump but won't finish it tonight. Anythign else i should look for this weekend?

 

Snot in IP; Trouble codes; IP swap Q's

I did not get the pump removed completely last night but I thoroughly cleaned the top cavity of the thick snot and opened the injector lines at the back of the IP. My theory is some kind of organic growth loosened by the veg oil - there is no way this snot could have gotten past either filter.

Now I have no pump activity whatsoever. My trouble codes are:

DTC 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault
DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error
DTC 28 - Transmission Range Pressure Switch Circuit
DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 46 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit Fault
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 88 - ??? Dumba55 owner fault?

Is there anything that looks like it would be something other than the encoder?

Mine is a 94 6.5 TD. There is a local 97 that is being parted out. I have read from other posts that some of the 94's were different. Does anyone know if the internal parts will swap over? Is there a vin cutoff for the two types of pumps? I won't know the pump part number until I get it pulled but if I can secure a replacement it would help get the beast back on the road faster.

Thanks again for the help.