Not sure on the rating of those corner bed anchors, but I could suggest caping your bed rails with 1/4" x 3" angle iron. These rails could have a nice threaded boss welded in over the steak pockets (all three) allowing for a deeper boss and longer bolt on the under side. You can then use a cross member with the baby winch for pulling in the meat. The three pocket locations would give you options when winching. The bed rail caps would be trough bolted to the bed in three locations per side using larger washers and lock washers on the underside. You can also weld in some low profile anchor loops on the inside of the angle to keep the top somewhat clean. If you want to keep it simpler a hole can be drilled on the angle rail with a 1/2-13 nut welded on the underside over the bed pocket leaving a smooth top cap other than the three bolt heads securing the cap to the bed.
I believe this higher anchor point (angle) would prove beneficial when winching in a heavy load using ramps.
I can tell you I have built many truck racks using angle iron bed rails to secure the rack on. These racks are used in commercial applications and carry a serious load on top so this is a strong application. Just know the cross member you span across the the bed would need to be appropriate for the load. Also when bolting the cross member to the bed rails, it would need to be tight to keep the joint flat and tight (stronger). You could use grade 8 bolts to keep the shear forces in check.
A simple solution with other uses when not dragging in there meat.

 

FWIW, we have a 2012 which is basically the same truck. The lower tie down points are strong, but the bedside will flex if you put weight to them. I wouldn't trust them for pulling a 700 pound elk up into the bed. I would use the upper tie down pockets by placing a strap between the front two pockets so that it forms a V towards the tailgate, then hook your winch in the point of the V.

 

The lower tie down points are strong, but the bedside will flex if you put weight to them. I wouldn't trust them for pulling a 700 pound elk up into the bed.

X2 on this. I've got a 2018 & you can buy tie-down inserts from Chevy that fit into oval holes at the top of the bedsides. The kit comes with instructions that warn against putting too much strain on the tiedowns cause the bedsides will bend inwards (assuming you have a strap across the bedsides I guess). I'm thinking the limit is somewhere between 100-200 lbs. of pull. Not sure, but a search should give you the limits.

 

Thank you for your replies. I’ll have to do a little planning and see which way to go.

 

I was looking for the easy way, but after researching on some hunting sites and truck forums, I either need to do it right like firestopper says, or risk damaging the bed. I do use the truck like a truck, but don’t need to inflict damage from cutting corners. It’s in pretty decent shape for an ‘07, and I’d like to keep it that way. Thanks for all your input.

 

Some added benefits to the bed rail caps when not dragging harvested game are :
1) A stout cap rail that will protect a work truck's bedrails from damage.
2) Added welded anchors along the inside angle flange will give you more tie down options.
3) the cross member can be used when you need added support for securing heavy work loads.

If you want further help with design, ask. I'm happy to share.

 

I don't know what the problem is with field quartering the animal. Use the newer gutless technique and you will have manageable, CLEAN meat in your game bags in an hour or 2. Leaving the elk whole wrecks the meat because it can't cool down quickly.

 

It's not a problem, I just want to be prepared for any eventuality. I might end up in a time crunch situation that I won't be able to process the animal myself and have to take it to a processor. If I'm paying to have it done anyway, I'm going to drop off a whole animal and let them do it all. Plus, in the area we're going, average high is 30 degrees. The meat will be fine, it's the whole reason I apply for cow tags.

 

Off topic here but just want to know, earl84. How do you have a 2007 'NBS' but its an LBZ. Motor swap? Or delete so you call it an LBZ? Just curious...

 

I’m not sure what “NBS” is, but I’m pretty sure I have an LMM engine, and can’t figure out how to change that. Sorry for confusion.

 

OBS= Old body style/ NBS= New body style
Your VIN can confirm what you have ( LBZ/LMM )

 

Haha. No worries. I was just curious. I couldnt figure out how to change my sig since this site changed after being gone for awhile. Figured it out but apparently i have way too many lines in my sig so just left it. Didnt worry about adding the 2021 Dually in it.

 

So I think I found a headache rack on Craigslist that will fit my bed. Only asking $125 for it, I don’t think I could buy metal to make my own for that price. Going to set an appointment to look this weekend, it’s about an hour plus from where I live.

 

I bought the headache rack and just started slight modifications to mount the winch up high on top. I’m modeling it after the Colorado Parks and Wildlife trucks around here that they use to pull animals up into the bed. I talked with the guy who actually makes the rack and winch mount, so it should work great. The headache rack also had bed rails that cover the entire side, which I’ll attach with three Grade 8 bolts per side. I’ll try to post some pics when I’m finished.

 

Here a few photos of the winch mount. Not the greatest welds to begin with, but they are very secure and got better at the end of the project. Today is making up a ramp to ride up the tailgate and wiring. It won’t be too fancy, since this will only get used a few times a year, at most.

 

If you see excessive flexing under load, you might consider a 2" tube gussets (same material used) as close to the top horizontal and 45º to the bed rails. That would tie it all in nicely. Those little base gussets won't hold up to a decent elk load IMO.
The high point winch mount will work nice with the ramps your planning.

 

Glad you chimed in, firestopper. I was wondering about that and debated adding diagonal supports. Might do that tomorrow, go the ramp done today, it works great.

 

I believe that would completely reinforce that particular design for your intended use.
Make sure to protect your glass if you intend to weld those diagonals with the rack installed. Also place a 2x4 under the bed rail to protect the paint from welding heat. Lastly, disconnect both negative terminals prior to welding.

As for fit-up, you’ll have to have a slight compound angle on the weld joints to get a nice weld joint without gaps. This is because of the in-ward angle of the rack itself and the flat bed rail. If you weld a largish gap ( no compound) , you could experience warpage.
Cut your 45°, then hand grind your compounds unless you have access to a fancier saw. A simple way to achieve this is to hold the piece in (45° already cut) and take notice of the outboard gaps. That gap measurement is then used to relieve the inboard material for a clean fit and tight weld joint.
Grind off any paint prior to welding, tack weld all four corners top/bottom of your joints and burn in the outer and sides. Accessing the inside portion of the joints might be tricky but not necessary. You can seal this with black RTV and be fine. The way I do those inside joints is to turn up the heat and use a more wire “stick out” (MIG) to reach in. Again, if your not comfortable doing this without dwelling too long on the joint, just use RTV or silicone after touch up.
Feel free to ask for any clarification since I’m not the best writer…

 

Well, I added the supports and a few D-rings. I went to my local metal recyclers and found 2 pieces of the same size and same thickness. They even had 45.degree.angles.cut and were about 4 inches too long. Destiny! Paid 25 cents a pound for them, what a deal. I'm out hunting now, and hopefully get a chance to use it.

 

Now that’s tide in nicely.
Good luck with your harvest!

 

Thanks. I didn’t have time to clean it up and paint, lots going on, but I’m pretty happy with it. I’ll take it off and grind the welds, prime and paint later. I’m a much better grinder than welder, but they’re solid. Surface rust set in overnight with our snow and rain we received.
Don’t know if anyone is an elk hunter, this is only my second year, but I spotted a herd of about 80-100 elk and put them to bed right in the middle of my area. Planning to get there before the sun comes up and hopefully get a chance to fill my tag. My buddies arrive tomorrow late morning.

 

Thanks. I didn’t have time to clean it up and paint, lots going on, but I’m pretty happy with it. I’ll take it off and grind the welds, prime and paint later. I’m a much better grinder than welder, but they’re solid. Surface rust set in overnight with our snow and rain we received.
Don’t know if anyone is an elk hunter, this is only my second year, but I spotted a herd of about 80-100 elk and put them to bed right in the middle of my area. Planning to get there before the sun comes up and hopefully get a chance to fill my tag. My buddies arrive tomorrow late morning.

If your hunt is successful, and you wind up winching, share some photos. 👍