It's a very messy thing to do; you can't really filter out the metal particles or the soot which both are quite abrasive, let alone other chemicals that build up in the oil which you don't want to run through the fuel system and filters and the engine. Check out the lubricity study in the maintenance&fluids section: they found the effect of motor oil on lubricity to be insignificant.

Take your oil to autozone or another place to dispose of it properly, they take it no charge. You can put it into your tank, but it's not worthwhile.

 

put a magnet on the filter...burn it....

 

ive burned old oil in old direct injected tractor engines with no problem made them work better than before but im spooked to do it on my 6.2 it seems to be more fragile than the tractorengine is so i dont wanto run **** like that through it and wreck it i might try it if i get a sediment bowl and a water fuel seperator along with my stock rectangular fuel filter the previos owner cut out the secondary fuel filter and put a pice of fuel line in its place should i put one back in? or leave it as is and get a sediment bowl

 

If you have the model 80 filter, that would be the only one. It's supposed to both filter and to seperate water.

 

yea it has the dash light too but i thought there was a secondary filter in the intake

 

Probably not a good idea. Engine lube oils burn differently than diesel fuel. I imagine this would cause problems with incomplete combustion and coking. My biggest concern here is the particulate matter and byproducts of combustion (Soot, metal, acids etc) in *used* lube oil trashing the fuel system.

If you were to clean it well and mix it with DF 1 or 2 it might work. I'm working on a homebrew used-oil furnace, you can buy them pre made ($$$) but I've got most of the parts kicking around in the junk pile.

 

I've been doing it for 40 years. Never had any problems, but I don't dump oil directly into my trucks or cars tanks either. I use it in my diesel Volkswagens, Chevy Chevettes, Isuzu 4WD truck, GM 6.2s, Ford-IH 6.9 and 7.3s, Cummins 5.9s, and various bulldozers, backhoes, and farm tractors. You've got to be careful though, since it just takes a little waste oil to turn your tank of fuel a deep dark color. If you ever got dipped at a police fuel-check, I'm not sure what questions might come up.

I only do it to get rid of oil. I hate wasting it. So I burn some, and use the rest for bar oil in my chain saws. I've got four 300 gallon diesel tanks and most are usually full. I just dump my waste oil in one of them. Whenever I pump fuel out of one of those tanks, it goes through another filter.

I don't get the concern about contaminants. The oil is first, constantly filtered while in the engine it gets drained from. Then, I pour it through a fine screen into my bulk tanks. Then, gets filtered again when I pump it out. Then, once in a diesel truck, gets filtered again in the tank pickup screen, again by the main vehicle diesel fuel filter, and once again via the screen in the injection pump. Since none of things has clogged prematurely on me, things must be OK.

I'd be very careful if putting the waste oil directly into a trucks fuel tank, if it has a rotary injection pump. A rotary cannot take the abuse that a piston pump can, so it will not be forgiving if you make a mistake.

 

ok why do the police dip your tanks?

 

Because they're looking for cheaters who use cheaper off-road farm fuel or heating oil in their trucks. It's illegal and a form of tax evasion. That's why off road and heating oil is dyed. So the dip-guys can tell the difference just by looking. Many people do it, especially in farm country. Most of the dip checks I've seen are usually just for the big rigs, not small pickup trucks.

 

So is it legal to use used motor oil for fuel? It's horrible for emissions ...

 

As far as emissions go, any old mechanically injected diesel is a polluter. Diesel fuel is just oil, just thinner than motor oil. If emissions was the issue here, I guess we'd all have to park our 4.3s, 5.7s, 6.2s, 6.5s, 6.9s, 7.3s. 5.9s. 1.6s, 1.8s, 1.9s, 2.2s, 2.3s, etc.

How many emissions are created from fueling and tooling what's needed to make new cars and trucks, and recycle crushed cars and trucks, every year? The answer is, a lot. So, in some ways, keeping an old diesel running regardless of fuel used, has a positive note to it.

As far as legal goes, that is different state to state. Federal law allows an individual to use "home brew" fuel of any type up to a certain limit of gallons, per year, on public highways. But, some states do NOT allow it without payment of taxes. Also, there is a legal allowance up to a certain amount of "additive chemicals" put into the tank, per person, per year.

 

Find somebody with a waste oil heater and give it to them.

 

i hope none of them guys dip my tank i always run my diesel on farm diesel which is purple not red

 

Farm diesel is purple here now too. Changed last year. The new laws prohibit red-dyed fuel to be used in any engine, anywhere now. So, the limited use farm and off-road stuff now has to be purple.

 

10% is the "recomended" ratio, according to most fuel system manufacturers..

 

LOL lots of you guys are way paranoid. I am going to run it through my 10mic water seperator then through my 2 mic fuel filter. I have a spare setup off my 05 Cummins. I can run it through 1x and pump it to a clean bucket then just let is recirculate for a while. The I will mix it 50/50 with diesel to make sure it is mixed in well enough and I am going to run a few gal per a full tank. All the dodge mechanical guys burn tons of this stuff some even burn Jet A and oil mixed.Im not worried about the particles. If the 2 mic filter doesnt catch it neither will an injector. Anyone know what the stock box filter rating is?I ran asshless 2 stroke oil in my cummins all the time. The truck loved it.

 

quite frankly you're wasting yer time, and those small metal fibers can screw up quite a few things on a fuel system.

I wouldn't recommend it at all, plus ya wanna talk about a horrible smell from the exhaust, WOOF!

 

I run 20% WMO and my sub actually runs better no more soot or smoke than it made before, and no the exhaust doesn't stink. I'm going to up the ratio a soon as it gets warmer up here.

My rig is 2 - 45 gallon barrels and a 5 stage filtering set up, 1 is a water block and magnets on every thing. 1 for rough and 1 for a final cleaning. The biggest "cleaner" of the oil is to be picky what you put in your system and settling time.

I keep fresh oil in 5 gallon pails for 3 - 5 days before dumping it in the barrels to settle out the garbage and it works great. I also won't pump oil out of a barrel until I've circulated the whole barrel through and then let it sit for 3 - 5 days, again more settling time. Lastly the oil pump pickups are verticle and hooded, also 4 in off the bottom of the tank so all I'm pulling is clean stuff.

I've run about 600 litres, about 160 gallons through the new filters and have had no change in the filter presures.

One issue to watch is WMO does run hotter so don't play unless you got a EGT gauge, you've been warned.

 

I have a Fleetguard FS1212 water seperator and a Fleetguard 2 micron furl filter I will run it through. I think the first stage will be a 100 mesh screen on the pickup before the pump. I also have a drum heater here to heat the oil to help get the water out and have all the crap settle faster in the thinner oil. I will run the magnets at the outlet of the pump. I already have an EGT guage so thats not an issue. I think I will run 1 tank #2 only and 1 tank with oil in it.That way I can burn the oil on the hwy only