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Torsion Bar unloading

42K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  deereagtech  
#1 ·
I am getting ready to do a lift kit this weekend and need to know how to release the torsion bars does anyone have pics of this or can help me out in any way? Thanks Chris
 
#3 ·
Unload bars WITH PROPER TOOL, take bolt out, remove piece bolt goes through... simple you may need to smack key or end of bar a bit to loosen them
 
#5 ·
deereagtech;1245079; said:
I am getting ready to do a lift kit this weekend and need to know how to release the torsion bars does anyone have pics of this or can help me out in any way? Thanks Chris
No you do not need a torsion bar tool. First place the truck on stands securely. The safest way to accomplish this is to remove the tire, take a floor jack and place it on the lower control arm to where it raises the control arm up about half inch or so, jus enough so that all of the suspension pressure is on the jack. Unbolt the upper ball joint and push the control arm up so it is vertical or out of the way. Remove the front axle and the spindle or knuckle. Next remove the shock and sway bar. Then lower the jack down slowly. Then all you need to do is step on the lower control arm till all pressure is relieved and pull the bar toward the front of the truck and when it slides out of the key push the key end of the bar towards the ground and pull it out of the lower control arm. This should help. Worked wonders for me. Let us know how it goes!!
 
#7 · (Edited)
#8 ·
I have used a puller before and recommend just getting the tool. It's not fun when they slip, and this was a heavy duty puller.
 
#9 ·
Ive used a ball joint press a dozen times or more works great you can pop both sides out in prolly a minute. Just looks like a huge!! C-clamp
Dont ever use a regular C-clamp your dealing with a loaded weapon!!
 
#10 ·
hardcoremxer7;1245548; said:
No you do not need a torsion bar tool. First place the truck on stands securely. The safest way to accomplish this is to remove the tire, take a floor jack and place it on the lower control arm to where it raises the control arm up about half inch or so, jus enough so that all of the suspension pressure is on the jack. Unbolt the upper ball joint and push the control arm up so it is vertical or out of the way. Remove the front axle and the spindle or knuckle. Next remove the shock and sway bar. Then lower the jack down slowly. Then all you need to do is step on the lower control arm till all pressure is relieved and pull the bar toward the front of the truck and when it slides out of the key push the key end of the bar towards the ground and pull it out of the lower control arm. This should help. Worked wonders for me. Let us know how it goes!!
Well you certainly get the award for the most creative way to change the t-bar keys!

However, what you describe is significantly more work than just jacking the truck and using a t-bar unloading tool or CAREFULLY using a good gear puller to unload to t-bars.

Also, the t-bar unloader/gear puller makes adjusting to the t-bars---once they are installed--much easier.
 
#11 ·
Oh i thought he was installing a "real" lift not the keys. Keys are the worst way to lift ur truck, rides ruff as crap and stuff wares out to fast. just my 2 cents. Bite the bullet and get a 4 or 6 inch lift.
 
#12 ·
I still unload the t-bars and remove them the same way whether I am installing a lift or changing keys.
 
#13 ·
Thanks guy this was alot of help. Yes i am installing a real lift. 6" procomp.
 
#14 · (Edited)
deereagtech;1246991; said:
Thanks guy this was alot of help. Yes i am installing a real lift. 6" procomp.

Nice, well then the procedure i showed you should work wonders. Beats messin around with the pullers. If u have any ?'s about the lift you can PM me. I know that lift like the back of my hand.
 
#15 ·
any problems i should know about before i start? How long about did it take you? did you have any help? thanks
 
#16 ·
Problem with using a gear puller is not the puller, it's the crossmember, it'll bend and cause puller to pop off. I've done it both ways... only took one slip to learn the error of my ways.
 
#17 ·
Please don't use c-clamps or 2 jaw pullers. C-clamps are not strong enough, they are designed to hold as much load as you can apply by turning the t-handle by hand. And, even though the crossmember appears to be made for a 2 jaw puller, it is not. The lips are not meant to support any force, they provide strength reinforcement to the crossmember. I have see too many of these lips bent and heard too many stories of pullers slipping off to even consider using them. Use the right tool or let someone else do the job. There is a reason that a specific tool was designed for this application.
 
#18 ·
jwfab1;1245647; said:
I used a 2 jaw gear puller from Sears. Worked perfectly!! This way your not stuck with a $90 tools you'll necer use agian. You could even use a zip ties around the jaws if your afraid they are going to come off. The jaws held on to the frame like they were made to fit.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...=00946905000&vertical=AUTO&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
exactly it wont slip off if you have the zip ties on
but maybee he could by a special torsion bar unloading tool(glorified gear puller) but saftey first -:t right jmo
 
#19 ·
I welded up a special bracket to sit on top of the crossmember, that I could bolt my gear puller to. I was worried that I was going to break my welds it was so hard to put the keys in. In fact I put my stock keys back. So if you feel comfortable letting zip ties or garbage ties or duct tape then go for it, but I wouldn't. And I'm not conservative at all. I'll try anything once, twice if i like it, but a C-clamp and zip ties are not smart.:eek:
 
#22 ·
Thanks for all the help. Used 2 jaw pullers worked awsome, no bending sliping or anything took about a minute a side worked great