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Rebuilding A 6.5 For Optimal Towing and Efficiency

12K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  turbonator  
#1 ·
So I spoke on here before about buying a 93 6.5 flatbed truck. This also has 315,000 miles on it. I noticed that there was a trend between a few of the responses about how I might be coming into the trucks life when its ready to check out possibly. You guys gave me some really good links for what to look for as far as purchasing a 6.5 and what to expect and how to keep the engine and yourself happy. So I did what any 17 year old kid would do and printed out a whole bunch of 6.5 forum pages and the Army Shop manual all on the schools dime. Needless to say 315 pages later I've got me some valuable information?

Well being a junior in highschool I had the option of attending the local career center for diesel mechanics. Well I didn't this year but just today I decided I'm not happy unless I'm wrenching. That's my niche. That's what I love. So next year I will have the option to bring in a diesel project tear it to pieces and rebuild it from the ground up. And this is where my questions start to arise.

So say you have a shop full of tools, the power of knowledge at your fingertips and around $7000 to spend (I know crazy for an old work truck but I love the thing!!) I'm starting a small business when I graduate wherw I take my bobcat and tractor around to job sites and peoples houses and move dirt or grade driveways and so on and so forth. I'm going to rebuild almost everything on the truck from suspension to transmission to engine and then paint. I want to know what parts and such I should be putting on the motor to squeeze a little more power and efficiency out of it for towing equipment and hauling trailers and such. What would you do to the motor? What would you to the trans? What would you do to the suspension? I appreciate all of the opinions and advice. Sorry I got a little long winded?
 
#2 ·
Wear it out the rest of the way and get an Optimizer.

The blocks on these trucks aren't that spectacular, if you want true potential and have the money, the optimizer/p400 is the only way to go because the cost of rebuilding is so high and the end potential with the stock block isn't there. It would feel good to have a rebuilt engine sure but the alternative could be cheaper, easier and stand up to mods.

1993 is a great year you have all the manual linkages and manual pump but the nicer body/ifs. Rebush the suspension, quality shocks, airbags out back. Take the receiver hitch down, paint, replace the hardware and the trailer harnesses. That stuff can be a huge pain if its not working right.
 
#4 ·
Im with him, if you're using this thing as a hardcore work truck pull the engine and get an optimizer or p400 block. Not worth rebuilding what is probably a cracked block. If you REALLY want to rebuild one, go out and buy a good crack free block and go from there.

To build it I would first read the Turbonators build threads.

But the gist of it is:
Build a main girdle
Head Studs
Thicker HG's
Block fill if you're adventurous


As far as the rest of the truck goes, rebuild the front end, rebush everything with poly, add airbags, bigger springs, or helpers to the back (Im assuming you have light ones) 9 leafs is good for about 2-3000 lbs I have found out on my truck. Also as he said, go through your trailer wiring, you want to make sure that's wired right NOT WITH SCOTCH LOCKS! It's not something you want to fail on you when you have a big loader behind you, no trailer brakes anymore, and a stupid 16 year old blonde see's a shoe sale in front of you. It happens....

So yah, that's my quick thoughts on that one. Read up on many of our project blogs. Mines out there in the build threads as well if you're curious.
 
#5 · (Edited)
So you don't blow too much of your budget on the engine, I guess I would be in favor of getting an Optimizer, as the P400 is more pricey and more mods required to fit it in. You can likely get a used optimizer long block delivered for less than $2500, and use it as is, or for your experience, pull the heads, check the cylinders and deck, and put the head studs on it with O-rings, O-ring the cylinders too and put on a thicker head gasket to lower compression just a little. If you wanted to go above and beyond and try to improve power and efficiency, get a set of 1.6:1 roller rockers for the heads.

You can pull off the oil pan to inspect the bottom end, but I wouldn't mess with it, more cost and the improved block should be adequate for what power you can get out of a DB2 IP.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for all of the help Guys. I will have to do some looking around for the optimizer long blocks. But if I'm not able to find one for a price that i like and bought a clean 6.5 block what would i want to put in it? Would i want to get oversize rings and pistons, port and polish the heads, 18:1 pistons, head studs and whatever else? Sorry for all the questions. I want to get as much info as possible before i start tearing s**t apart. Ive been printing countless pages of info off of the site and making a special folder for it.
 
#7 ·
I wouldn't "get" anything for the until it actually has a reason to be replaced now, you can wait for better deals that come along on the parts you want for your "forever truck." My Subaru has nearly 300,000 on it, and well, its shot. But I sprinkle money and time on it as required and it does the job. A big project like you are talking could take months or years and you would need a truck in the meanwhile while its in the shop.... I mean, 7,000 seems like a lot of cake but when you consider you drop nearly a grand on oil cooler lines and a fluiddamper, its scary how fast the money goes and you will need to pick your battles.

Things to consider, once your business is started you can write off vehicle expenses. Also consider insurance. Let's say your truck catches fire. A 1993 with 300k is worth about 3 cents . I would talk to a tax accountant and verify that fixing an old truck makes financial sense from a tax standpoint, rather than just buying one and expensing it directly. I bring up insurance because, if your truck is ever a total loss older vehicles are not worth their invested value unless it is very specifically insured for x amount which can be as expensive as full coverage on a newer vehicle. Also, if you spend $7000 on your truck, what will it be worth in the end? A good rule of thumb is to maximize your investment to value ratio... What if you find a cleaner one or a quad cab dually? Wouldn't it be nice to send yours down the road with minimum pain?

Do your homework on how a vehicle and equipment is handled financially in a business so you can come out on top of the situation. Having money is better than having spent money and lost it.
 
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#8 ·
From his OP, I gather that he is using the school's shop and the truck as a senior project, so its a time limited on start and access to the shop.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Get a GEP engine from Ted's, around $3500 I believe. Rering it with Gapless, check bearings etc, port the heads, balance it, new injectors, have the pump gone thru, better lift pump, better turbo, better exhaust.

Transmission, service it, if its ok, leave it alone.

Suspension, go thru it, replace any worn parts with name brand stuff, not chinese crap, maybe some decent shocks, IE Bilstein, Rancho, Monroe Reflex.

Brakes, again, replace only whats worn, check flex hoses carefully, if in doubt-replace those.
 
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#10 ·
I have been considering selling my Optimizer... I think it could cover most peoples needs, or wants.

I have too much going on in life, not enough time or money to do much more with mine.
 
#11 ·
NOoooooooooooo, say it aint so, :(
 
#13 ·
I would have to give it some serious thought..
I can say that I probably won't give it away cheap, but would have to be a fair price for both parties.
 
#14 ·
The motor, if it is an original, should be a 599 casting. This block should be crack-free in the main bearing webs (have seen more 599's crack-free than cracked). Could be an excellent build project for your course. Being that you are going to be doing it in a shop, you will be able to incorporate into it many upgrades, to insure longevity and ability to handle higher performance applications.

What are your final plans for the engine? If your block is indeed crack-free, you can invest a part of the $3500 dollar optimizer price tag into preparing your own block....
 
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