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Just get the terminal, crimp it on your wire, and slide it on the pin..
Viola.... you're done.
 
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Discussion starter · #42 ·
OK, I'm sure this is a an absolutely dumb question... but I have to ask. I have an LML and need a (key on) power source to run my AD II 165 lift pump. I only need a key on power source to open the relay on the AD harness (+&- are already connected to the battery). Can I get the GM pin adapter splice it on my positive wire and plug straight into pin 7 or will I need the harness and all of the other stuff listed? I apologize for the ignorance of my question. I am electrically ignorant and trying to learn something new.
Pin 7 is simple run crank, so anytime the key is in the run or crank position it will have power. All you will need is a single terminal to connect the single wire.
 
worked PERFECT! Thanks guys!
 
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Discussion starter · #44 ·
It has been mentioned in the upfitters guide and Heymccall brought it up recently in a thread with a link here so I thought I would add this to the tread.

GM says that you should have a diode on the relay. What this does is prevents the coil from creating a spike INTO the rap circuit when it disengages. You see when you energize an electromagnet it creates a magnetic field. When you remove the current that magnetic field then creates electricity for a moment and this can be a big enough spike to create issues.

You can add the diode yourself across the coil pins, 85 and 86 or you can buy a relay with it built in such as this one.

1432790-1
 
It has been mentioned in the upfitters guide and Heymccall brought it up recently in a thread with a link here so I thought I would add this to the tread.

GM says that you should have a diode on the relay. What this does is prevents the coil from creating a spike INTO the rap circuit when it disengages. You see when you energize an electromagnet it creates a magnetic field. When you remove the current that magnetic field then creates electricity for a moment and this can be a big enough spike to create issues.

You can add the diode yourself across the coil pins, 85 and 86 or you can buy a relay with it built in such as this one.

1432790-1
Diesail, I brought it up because this guy lost cruise and ITBC over an airdog connection EVEN without a relay. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452877&highlight=diode


I'm beginning to think that we need a new thread...........

How to add electrical devices to 2007.5 and newer trucks without creating problems, and/ or using accessory and / or retained accessory power.
 
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Discussion starter · #46 ·
Diesail, I brought it up because this guy lost cruise and ITBC over an airdog connection EVEN without a relay. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452877&highlight=diode


I'm beginning to think that we need a new thread...........

How to add electrical devices to 2007.5 and newer trucks without creating problems, and/ or using accessory and / or retained accessory power.
I just went and read the airdog install directions. They do have a relay in the system. Even so if the it was wired direct without the relay the electric motor is going to have the same effect in that it will create a current briefly when power is removed. In fact given the size of the magnets in the motor it could create a much larger surge than the small coil of a relay.

While I have not had any issues in the 3 years my relay has been on the rap circuit I am going to add a diode ASAP. And I think you are right, a good thread to cover all the safe methods with some diagrams would be a great idea.
 
The real issue here is tapping into the MISC IGN circuit. The RAP install doesn't go to that circuit unless you tap the RUN/ CRANK.

I have at least 6 out there with no issues using RAP and the SEO B1 and B2 fuses sources.
 
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heymccmall,
2 quick questions 1) Is that X14 the same on the 2011's? 2) is the 300ma RAP enough to power an aftermarket Pioneer B/U camera & XM receiver or should I use the relay?
Thanks in advance, Steve
 
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heymccmall,
2 quick questions 1) Is that X14 the same on the 2011's? 2) is the 300ma RAP enough to power an aftermarket Pioneer B/U camera & XM receiver or should I use the relay?
Thanks in advance, Steve
I just did this mod to hook up my radar detector in my 11 so yes it's the same, as for your gear use the relay.
 
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2007.5-2012 are all equipped with this panel. And, yes, you need the relay.
 
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Hi everyone! I came across DieselPlace in my hunt for some info and found it here! Although mine isn't diesel, yup I know I hear the groans from everyone here already! LOL But I do have an 07.5 NBS Silverado so I still feel at home here! This has been a great read on the RAP how to, great article Diesail and everyone with input to it. I have a couple questions you guys might be able to answer for me. Would pin 7 be sufficient to run a cb radio? I couldn't find a switched line in the fuse block so it would come on and off with the truck, so right now always hot. Would hate to forget to turn off and come out to a dead battery! As well, I picked up an aftermarket blue tooth unit and it has a pink mute wire. I read somewhere else that the radio interrupt or mute feature is controlled by the BCM, but no mention as to what terminal that would be. Does anyone know where that might be so I can tap into it? Since I have the option of not having to hit 2 buttons (stock radio mute AND new blue tooth answer button) then I might as well try and take advantage of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Pin 7 is only 10amps. I wouldn't run a CB on that unless it was a very low power hand held. Pin 8 is a very low power keyed power. I use that to trigger a relay connected to Pin 5 which is 30 amps. I have run a VHF/UHF Ham Radio for three years with no issues. For reference on the other pins: Pin 2-15 amps, Pin 1-ground
 
Thanks for the reply txwpd103. I was going to go with the original article by Diesail to power my XM roadster receiver and a Schosche BT100R Bluetooth kit. Not sure how many amps the bluetooth uses, looked but couldn't find anything on the package. And as far as CB not using anything big, just a radio shack or cobra type, no amp or anything of the like pushing it. Was thinking of going to pin 2 for the 15 amps for the XM and bluetooth, but if I went to pin 5 for the 30 amps think that would be enough to power all 3? Running a VHF/UHF would draw more amps than a standard 40 channel wouldn't it?
 
If you don't mind always on, you can use Pin 5 for everything you listed. Best thing to do is to run from pin 5 to a small fuse block and fuse each connection individually. I've found some nice inexpensive ones at Academy Sports on the boat isle.
 
That's always an option too. Trying to get away from the always on though that's why I was going to use Diesail's method to power the XM and bluetooth so they would go off when I open the door or after the 10 mins or so along with the radio. Everything would have it's own inline fuse too, so it sounds like going to pin 5 would power everything alright even going with Diesail's method then. At ay given time not all 3 would be on at the same time most likely anyway.
 
Just get the terminal, crimp it on your wire, and slide it on the pin..
Viola.... you're done.
I apologize to whomever I called "Viola".....My french is rusty.

Just wanted to throw another BIG SHOUT out to Diesail for putting this all together. Yes, the 2013s are the same...I can finally toss all my hand scribbled drawings away :D


Diesail, you the man ;)
 
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Thread moved to DIY Reference forum. Thanks!
 
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I would defiantly install the diode, if you read that PDF from the upfitters guide, last two pages, you will see that they call for the diode or you could destroy your BCM. The RAP power comes from the BCM and you dont want those big voltage spikes hitting the BCM. Here is a great article on diodes and it covers in depth how to add them to a bosch type relay.

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

I used this article to convert my front cig lighters to switched power instead of constant on. I used radio shak diode type 1N4007
 
I purchased the GM 2079-1502 connector to use. Attached to the connector in the pin #1 position is a blue wire with something taped in the middle of the wire, like it might be a resistor or diode. What is this thing attached to the blue wire and why is it useful? Does having this mean I do NOT need a diode?
 
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Discussion starter · #60 ·
I purchased the GM 2079-1502 connector to use. Attached to the connector in the pin #1 position is a blue wire with something taped in the middle of the wire, like it might be a resistor or diode. What is this thing attached to the blue wire and why is it useful? Does having this mean I do NOT need a diode?
I bought that connector over a year ago and have never done anything with it. I will pull it out of the drawer and see if I can answer your question.
 
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