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When I look at GM SEO Connector p/n 12193930, Mouser Part Number 829-12193930, it appears that this physically connects 6 of the 8 pins. I'm assuming pins 7 & 8 are not connected and can't be used with this connector?
Or is it that 2 other pins aren't connected? maybe 3 & 4?
 
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When I look at GM SEO Connector p/n 12193930, Mouser Part Number 829-12193930, it appears that this physically connects 6 of the 8 pins. I'm assuming pins 7 & 8 are not connected and can't be used with this connector?
Or is it that 2 other pins aren't connected? maybe 3 & 4?
That P/N is wrong. That looks like the C6 connector for clearance lamps. Or maybe the electric brake connector for the '07 and olders.
 
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http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2004_BB/2003_Beyond_LD_Electric_CK.pdf

I got the p/n from page C-1 in the GMUpfitters pdf file. Page C-2 has the Trailer connector plug, which is right next to the SEO plug.

I just went out and put eyes on my SEO plug on the fuseblock, and it's 6-pins, not 8.
:idea:You do realize the problem here, right? This only applys to GMT-900 trucks, and you've got a GMT-800 truck (yours is the previous body style and wiring architecture).
 
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:idea:You do realize the problem here, right? This only applys to GMT-900 trucks, and you've got a GMT-800 truck (yours is the previous body style and wiring architecture).
You realize how hard I looked for those pins and connectors? :banghead: I was bound and determined to not pay GMPartsDirect the 28.00 + shipping for that silly SEO plug. :mad:

The GMUpfitters PDF file didn't say GMT-800 series or GMT-900... It says 2003+ :banghead:

Still worthwhile information to have for the older plug (2003-2007 OBS?), sorry it won't work for you guys in your fancy new trucks. :p:

I'll see if I can't come up with the proper plastic plug for the new style. Anyone have a p/n from Delphi?
 
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This is from a 12/2009 post by heymccall that MAY answer the question:

There is a provision, for RAP (Retained Accessory Power), 2 fused circuits, and a run/crank hot, in the interior junction box (MBEC). One B+ is 15 Amp, and the other is 30 Amp, and the run/ hot is 10 Amp, but if you have heated seats, the 30 is in use, but you won't need to buy connector, but rather, just the pins.

The RAP 12v can only handle 300ma, so it must trigger a relay.

The connector to fit is

20791502

and the terminals

15304715 (22-18 gauge)
15304716 (16-14 gauge)
15304717 (12-10 gauge)

plus you'll need a 30 amp automotive relay.

You can build the relay circuit and plug on the bench, and then simply plug it in.

Instructions are on pages E-11 and 12 here (warning 36MB file)http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2007_BB/09_LD_GMT900_Elec_D3b.pdf
 
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This is from a 12/2009 post by heymccall that MAY answer the question:

There is a provision, for RAP (Retained Accessory Power), 2 fused circuits, and a run/crank hot, in the interior junction box (MBEC). One B+ is 15 Amp, and the other is 30 Amp, and the run/ hot is 10 Amp, but if you have heated seats, the 30 is in use, but you won't need to buy connector, but rather, just the pins.

The RAP 12v can only handle 300ma, so it must trigger a relay.

The connector to fit is

20791502

and the terminals

15304715 (22-18 gauge)
15304716 (16-14 gauge)
15304717 (12-10 gauge)

plus you'll need a 30 amp automotive relay.

You can build the relay circuit and plug on the bench, and then simply plug it in.

Instructions are on pages E-11 and 12 here (warning 36MB file)http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2007_BB/09_LD_GMT900_Elec_D3b.pdf
But that too is for the GMT-900 series trucks.

I seem to recall something on here for RAP on '03-'07 trucks.
 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
That P/N is wrong. That looks like the C6 connector for clearance lamps. Or maybe the electric brake connector for the '07 and olders.
Glad you caught that.

The correct Delphi part is 13516831

Image


Still not available from mouser
 
Is it right for the NBS 07.5+?

20791502
That gets you a proper connector to interface with '07.5-'10 GM full size trucks. It includes one terminal with a 8" lead, so you will need additional terminals, plus you'll have to relocate the one teminal it does have.

I used the terminals listed above,
15304715 (22-18 gauge)
15304716 (16-14 gauge)
15304717 (12-10 gauge)
but they do not allow the connector's redundant lock to seat correctly. They fit the connector, but the blue safety "E-plate" will not install. The terminals will lock in, but they won't be double locked.
 
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Any reason not to use the standard four pin relay for this? Also where else to get the pins? Local dealer no go on these.....
 
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For the fuse feeds

A close-up of X14

Image


Pin 1 - Chassis Ground

Pin 2 - B+ ................(15Amp SEO B1 fuse underhood)
Pin 5 - B+ ................(30Amp SEO B2 fuse underhood)
Pin 7 - RUN/CRANK (10Amp SEO/ALC fuse underhood)
Pin 8 - RAP ..............(300Ma from TBC (BCM) to trigger relay, fed by TBC 2B 10Amp in the interior fuse panel)
 
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Just to clarify, mouser does not have the SEO connector for 04-06 vehicles? would all of this apply to a 2004 tahoe also? I have both the radio my truck and my wife's Tahoe ran off switched power and would like to do it right where it stays on when you pull the key out and don't open doors.
 
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Just to clarify, mouser does not have the SEO connector for 04-06 vehicles? would all of this apply to a 2004 tahoe also? I have both the radio my truck and my wife's Tahoe ran off switched power and would like to do it right where it stays on when you pull the key out and don't open doors.
The wiring in the truck doesn't support that feature like the newer wiring does. You gotta go here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399448&highlight=rap

The easier way would have been to buy the proper chassis harness w/ chime.
 
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The wiring in the truck doesn't support that feature like the newer wiring does. You gotta go here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399448&highlight=rap

The easier way would have been to buy the proper chassis harness w/ chime.
Hows does the harness tell the radio to stay on after the doors are open since there isn't a switched wire per se? Is there something in the harness that fools the truck into thinking the stock radio is there and to keep sending power?
 
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Hows does the harness tell the radio to stay on after the doors are open since there isn't a switched wire per se? Is there something in the harness that fools the truck into thinking the stock radio is there and to keep sending power?
The harness is actually a harness and module assy. The module interprets the Databus command send by the BCM that enables the stock radio to turn on, then, in turn, it latches a relay within itself, creating an ignition power circuit. That same model also receives the shutdown request when the BCM counts to ten minutes, or you've opened a door, after key off, and unlatches it's internal relay.
 
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The harness is actually a harness and module assy. The module interprets the Databus command send by the BCM that enables the stock radio to turn on, then, in turn, it latches a relay within itself, creating an ignition power circuit. That same model also receives the shutdown request when the BCM counts to ten minutes, or you've opened a door, after key off, and unlatches it's internal relay.
So there is also a module in the factory radio that does this? Why didn't GM do this up stream of the radio, so that people could put in aftermarket radios without having to buy an expensive harness. :rolleyes:
 
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So there is also a module in the factory radio that does this? Why didn't GM do this up stream of the radio, so that people could put in aftermarket radios without having to buy an expensive harness. :rolleyes:
If you have to ask, then you're not in "manufacturing" or an "economics major". Look on the bright side. At least the Double Din has has replaced the Din & a half (for the most part), allowing you to not have to destroy the dash structure when the factory radio doesn't suit your needs.
 
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OK, I'm sure this is a an absolutely dumb question... but I have to ask. I have an LML and need a (key on) power source to run my AD II 165 lift pump. I only need a key on power source to open the relay on the AD harness (+&- are already connected to the battery). Can I get the GM pin adapter splice it on my positive wire and plug straight into pin 7 or will I need the harness and all of the other stuff listed? I apologize for the ignorance of my question. I am electrically ignorant and trying to learn something new.
 
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