Racor makes a CCV filter system. Just google, yahoo, or whatever you use "Racor CCV" and you'll have plenty of choices to choose from to see what it's like. I'm really thinking about doing that in a couple of weeks now that I have some funds saved up.

 

Mine is re-routed to the atmosphere and never a drop of oil.

dane

 

X2

 

How much volume would you think for the filter? They sell a 10cfm, a 20 cfm, and a 40 cfm.

 

From Racor's website:

How to Select the Racor CCV® Assembly
Racor CCV® application is determined by crankcase flow in CFM. CFM on new engines is low but as the engine wears on, the CFM increases. Select the correct Racor CCV® model by dividing the engine horsepower output by 40. Single CCV® units are designed to handle various crankcase flow rates up to 40 CFM. Traditionally, the crankcase flow rate can be calculated as follows: Rated horsepower ÷ 40 = cubic feet per minute (CFM). This formula can only be used as a guide since recent improvements in piston design have produced engines with higher horsepower and lower blow-by flow rates. The blow-by flow rate of a worn engine, at time of overhaul, is generally double the flow rate when the engine is new. The flow rate of a worn engine is factored into the formula.​

 

I have also seen these kits in the jegs catalog.

 

Summit makes one!
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1504&N=700+400304+301560+115&autoview=sku

Mann-hummel makes one!
http://www.mann-hummel.com/industri...om/industrialfilters/index.html?iKeys=22.1.252.1.1&cScr=75&v_pbid=19&v_pid01=44

Racor makes one!
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...xtdiv=687630&vgnextcat=CCV6000+SERIES&vgnextpartno=CCV6000-08R&vgnextcatid=9886

 

Wish somebody on this site would carry them-- hint, hint. Once you buy one and put it in then you have to maintain it and there in lies the difficulties of finding parts.

Another question becomes how do you drain the oil back to the engine?

 

Looks to me like the summit version is like a dump tank with breather for pressure.

The racor version has an inlet and outlet and looks like the ticket...thanks offtohaveasu.

Has anyone one tried one? I would think that an engine w/ a working PCV would have less crankcase pressure and less tendency to leak from the seals than an engine that is just vented to atmosphere.

I think this effect would be even greater when the engine gets more miles and has increased blowby. The turbocharger will further magnify this effect.

I believe a working PCV that doesn't suck oil into the intake tract is the best set-up for engine health over the long haul. Am I wrong?

 

Looks to me like the summit version is like a dump tank with breather for pressure.

The racor version has an inlet and outlet and looks like the ticket...thanks offtohaveasu.

Has anyone one tried one? I would think that an engine w/ a working PCV would have less crankcase pressure and less tendency to leak from the seals than an engine that is just vented to atmosphere.

I think this effect would be even greater when the engine gets more miles and has increased blowby. The turbocharger will further magnify this effect.

I believe a working PCV that doesn't suck oil into the intake tract is the best set-up for engine health over the long haul. Am I wrong?

A connected PCV system also removes moisture and other vapors that can contain contaminants which are harmful to the engine. The oil seperator would be the best with a working PCV system.

 

From Racor's website:

How to Select the Racor CCV® Assembly
Racor CCV® application is determined by crankcase flow in CFM. CFM on new engines is low but as the engine wears on, the CFM increases. Select the correct Racor CCV® model by dividing the engine horsepower output by 40. Single CCV® units are designed to handle various crankcase flow rates up to 40 CFM. Traditionally, the crankcase flow rate can be calculated as follows: Rated horsepower ÷ 40 = cubic feet per minute (CFM). This formula can only be used as a guide since recent improvements in piston design have produced engines with higher horsepower and lower blow-by flow rates. The blow-by flow rate of a worn engine, at time of overhaul, is generally double the flow rate when the engine is new. The flow rate of a worn engine is factored into the formula.​

So that means 360(hp)/ 40 = 9cfm so the CCV4500 @ 10cfm fits stock

This link says the 4500 is good to 600 hp and has the size of the unit
http://www.maesco.com/products/racor/r_extras/r_new/r_new.html


Also says it is now standard on all Cummins and Detroit Diesel highway engines.

Anyone have ideas for the easiest way to mount this on a D-Max?

 

Spoke to a Racor representative yesterday and said the 4500 is the ticket for our trucks.

As for mounting, I was going to mount it towards the rear/driver's side corner as many have done with oil seperators, then back to the turbo. There is also a connection at the bottom which allows the oil to return to the crankcase.

Oddly enough, the cheapest places I have found these are at marine stores.

 

Where are you going to put the oil return?

 

If I recall, isn't there a plug on the driver's side of the engine that allows oil to return? Actually, I think there are 2. One has pressure the other is return.

 

This sounds like a good idea. I gotta watch this thread and find out how you smart guys do this so I can copy!

 

Offtohaveasu, the link that I posted said the 4500 was good to 600 hp but the calculation seemed to indicate 10 cfm was good for 400 hp. Did the salesman clarify that in any way?

I am very interested in this mod.

This is my first diesel and turbo vehicle. I've heard that turbo gassers tend to suffer more oil leaks from different seals in the engine as the miles accumulate and ring blowby increases. The turbo makes extra positive pressure in the crankcase and helps the oil past the seals. Do diesels suffer the same malady?

Would the extra pressure venting from an active PCV w/ filter help alleviate this effect while keeping oil out of the intake tract and off the red hot turbo impeller (coking?)

 

He did not give a specific reasoning why, he just that's the one that would work. I would say the 10 cfm is a safe bet based ont heir calculations.

I too would rather have the system fully functional, just not sucking the oil through the boots.

 

Good information in this thread. Been seeing quite a few different topics on pvc re-route.
Have any of you guys done this oil separator mod yet and do you have any pics?

Thanks.

 

i still dont understand what this dose???

 

Would a ricer "catch can" work with the PCV reroute kit?

Something like this.