Sounds like its seized to me. These engines don't like sharing their oil with the ground or anything else for that matter. If by some miracle its not seized, don't put GM oil cooler lines back on it, they are junk.

 

uh oh....spaghettios ....yep she's seized

 

What can I do to tell if it is seized? Can I turn the engine manually with one of the pullies..Too much compression?

 

no you can't turn it by hand. you could possibly remove the crank pulley and try spinning the motor over with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1" socket. The question is where is it seized, Crank to rod(s), piston to cylinder wall, etc.

 

you could pull the injectors to eliminate compression and take off the belt to eliminate that drag. then try turning the motor with the crank pully. thats what i would do, never done it but i think it should work.

Justin

 

I'm well versed with the injectors because I just dropped 500.00 and a week end installing new ones. What physically happends inside the engine when it seizes up? If I am able to turn the engine manually after I take the injectors out, what next?

 

When an engine seizes its basically like two metal parts welding themselves together and no longer turning. The oil prevnts the motor from seizing up as the moving parts ride on a thin film of oil that's pumped there by the oil pump(hence oil pressure).

 

Like Dave said it depends on what seized. If you pull the injectors and you can get it to move then I would crank it a bunch with the PMD unpluged so it wolnt start to get oil flowing through the motor again. Dont crank for more that like 15-30seconds at a time so you dont burn up your starter, make sure you let it cool off between cranking.

Justin

 

I just had a thought. I recently had the injector pump re-timed and and I put a new FSD on the cooler. If I get the engine turning manually,will this nock the injector pump out of time again?

 

I just had a thought. I recently had the injector pump re-timed and and I put a new FSD on the cooler. If I get the engine turning manually,will this nock the injector pump out of time again?

I dont think so, but that would be the least of my worries. like everyone said i bet its seized. pull the motor, bearings, pistons, bore, possibly crank, etc.

 

If I were you I would not try to even move it unless you put something down every cylinder, like WD-40 mixed with diesel fuel and 2-stroke oil, put enough in so that it would completely cover the pistons, let sit for 5 minutes or so. Then try to turn the engine over with a breaker bar, if it moves, good, if it doesn't, not so good, but either way it's got to come somewhat apart, like pulling off the oil pan the check things out.

 

I would try pulling the injectors out, hosing down the cylinder walls with oil and see if it will turn over. if it does just go with it and run the damn thing, either way it will need a rebuild to be right.

 

But why did it turn over the first time and not the second time. Thats what confuses me.

 

My best guess is when the engine was still hot, it provided some expansion that allowed enough clearance for the pistons to scrape by. When it cooled and he added new oil, the cylinder walls could have shrunk around the pistons, and locked them in place. Just a theory though.

 

Devote your energy to removing the engine. It is a waste of time to tinker with it in the chassis.You have rod bearings & main bearings that are siezed in some amount to the crankshaft.Cylinder walls may be scored & contributing to the siezure also. My suggestion would buy a reman late 6.2 short block with the one piece rear seal to rectify the situation economically .Better piece than a 6.5 IMO

 

Pull glow plugs it is easier than injectors use a L bar on the front pulley/dampener. squirt some wd40 in each hole and try to work it loose. if it moves at all ,pull the ops- rig up a fitting to a grease gun full of engine oil and back feed oil into the system a pint or so. then try barring it thru 360 degrees rotation if it goes thru a full rotation try the starter, if that works put the ops back in spin with starter till gauge reads some pressure. Put glow plugs back in and try to start. This is easy, quick and a long shot! I would think worth a try.

 

There is a tool made that will pre-lube the engine. I'll bet it's pretty expensive, though. You remove the oil pump drive at the rear of the engine and replace it with this tool and spin it with a drill. The shop that rebuilt my engine loaned me theirs.

I'd be fer checkin' the classifieds and calling around to find another long block as you work on pulling the anchor out of your truck. If you do get the thing running, you aren't likely to be happy with all the new knocking noises it's gonna make. Disassemble, assess, count your pennies, then decide. A P400 is a great replacement longblock and doesn't cost any more than any other (new) long block. ...hafta build a custom pan, though.

When you put it back together, get the Lubrication Specialist oil cooler kit so you don't ruin another engine. GM oughtta be real proud of themselves with those ridiculous quick disconnect fittings.

 

Ill try the WD 40 in the injector holes idea. It is a long shot, but easy. a full rebuild is in the future after another Army promotion....money....Army dont pay real well.

 

Best leverage is on the flex plate, with a pry bar.

 

Lets put it this way... In my experiance has an engine rebuilder, running ANY engine without a properly functioning lubrication system, damage occurs.

No ifs/ands or buts.
Now, you're real problem is WHAT damage has occured.

If it shut itself down, it could (unlikely though) have been from the OPS not seeing the right parameters, and saying nighty night for the thing, and it DECIDED to shut down.

More likely then not, it didn't shut down, it was STOPPED.

Sad to say, but I could sit here and tell you all night and all morning what COULD be done to see what has happined without going inside, but you'll never know without going inside.

Pulling cylinder heads will allow you to see the condition of the cylinder walls, and pulling the pan will allow you to see the crank and rods, but until you pull it all apart, and clean it up, you won't know even half the story.

If it were my engine, I'd leave it till I could pull it out, and pull it apart, but I've already done that, so doing it again is only a PITA for me, not a nightmare as it may be for some.

I feel for ya.

 

I blew an oil cooler line about a week ago and didnt realize what was going on till it shut down on me

I have seen this scenario on several older junkyard engines I've trashed for nothing better to do. Here is what I think happened....

Engine running, no oil, engine seizes and stalls. Piston and cylinder are galded. Piston cools quicker than cylinder bore, piston shrinks, engine may bump over when hot. When cool, everything goes to same size, and engine will not crank.

The hot - may crank time is when to hit it ASAP with oil and get it going for the possibility to run it for a little while longer before rebuilding. You are too late now.

I can say, with about 99% certainity, to start getting ready to pull that engine.

 

you murderous bas....just kidding monel...pretty much it turns while the engine is still hot, now WHAT seized is again the issue....take it apart man....oh and we'll help you every step of the way

 

what pretty well happened is that the rod/main/cam brg got buggered up and seized.
Your pistons could be still OK,
Best scenario is just the brgs are gone and slight crank and rod damage.
worst scenario is spun main brgs that f,d up block.
you will need to do a complete teardown, incl turbo, there is no quik fix in these situations

 

Well, I guess its time to convert the wood working shop back to a engine rebuild shop. Oh, but I will be back and so will my baby....I mean my POS.

 

I pulled the glow plugs out but I havn't shot the wd 40 in the holes yet. If I cant break the engine free, Ill have to rebuild. Who has step by step photos? I think I have a place to store the truck but I have to get the engine pulled. Anyone close the Fort Leonard Wood, MO? Ive been looking at the rebuild kit at SSD and I think it wil work but I need to get insid ethe block to see what damage I did. Im pretty decent with a gasser, but this is my first deisel rebuild. What advise do yall have. If you have photos and documents my e mail is tinderbox427@hotmail.com

 

I pulled the glow plugs out but I havn't shot the wd 40 in the holes yet. If I cant break the engine free, Ill have to rebuild. Who has step by step photos? I think I have a place to store the truck but I have to get the engine pulled. Anyone close the Fort Leonard Wood, MO? Ive been looking at the rebuild kit at SSD and I think it wil work but I need to get insid ethe block to see what damage I did. Im pretty decent with a gasser, but this is my first deisel rebuild. What advise do yall have. If you have photos and documents my e mail is tinderbox427@hotmail.com

It's basically a lot like a gasser, only things are a lot beefier, and combustion happins in the heads.

Not to mention the Turbo off to one side lol.

 

Get some stuff called kroil and dump some into the cylinders, that should break it loose and you can drive it. Ive broken engines loose like that and ran them for years, they were gassers though. You may not want to do that because a bad bearing will trash the crank and maybe throw a rod. You could atleast drive it into the building.

My first engine rebuild was a diesel, it was my IH 484. It was easy but a tractor is easier to work on then a pickup and a I3 is easier then a V8.

 

Dont the 6.5 have a Murphy switch to shut it down if the oil pressure drops billow a certain level?

 

Not that i'm aware of. Too many engines have died from oil outs because of bad cooler lines, etc for the switches to be plausible. I know the 7.3 PSD will shut down if run ~4-5 quarts low(holds 16 quarts ). The only reason they shut down is the high pressure oil pump looses its prime and the engine shuts down and won't start until the oil is refilled up to the min level again. Its nice because you physically can't run a 7.3 PSD out of oil.

 

yer we have them on all our tractors and booster pumps and are fitting them in out 2 1/2 tonne gassers

 

michaeljp86, sounds like you're volunteering to try it out.

 

If someone wants to send me one i'd be glad to try it out. :

 

Murphy switch

clue me in on what a Murphy switch is, how it works and how to hok one up and i'll try it.