Fuel Filter replacment pics/instructions

dmaxalliTech · Oct 26, 2003

Duramax Fuel Filter Change

I have promised this for a while, thanks for your patience..

Gather up some tools, a filter wrench, I use the style shown, its handle will pivot also. A pair of pliers, a good screwdriver and of course, a filter.

As you can see, I didnt remove anything, the battery is still in place, the picture is over the fender, not through the wheel well. Also the turbo intercooler pipe is in place.

I do move the A/C line slightly, grasp it as shown and push it towards the firewall about 1/2-3/4" not too far, you dont want to kink it at the bend.

Disconnect the two electrical connections, they are attatched to the valve cover with a flexible metal support, the top connector is the WIF sensor and the bottom one is the fuel heater.

Here is the filter wrench ready to do some work, notice the way its positioned. You will move the wrench to the left in this view to loosen the filter, The pivoting handle allows you to clear obstructions, in this case, the battery.

Once you break it loose with the wrench, spin it out, I use my right hand to do this. I found that a step stool will help get the angle right to make it easier. Remember, spin it clockwise to remove as shown.

The filter will come out here. Thats the reason for "adjusting" the a/c line. Notice that my filter is full of fuel right to the top. This is due to the lift pump I am running. A stock fuel system will leave the fuel level in the filter about 1.5" below the top. This is why I didnt mention draining the filter first

Here is the old filter on the left and the new one on the right. Notice the two new o-rings that come with all replacement elements

Use your filter wrench to hold the filter and a pair of pliers to remove the WIF sensor, once you unseat the oring it will unscrew easily.

Here is the WIF sensor removed and the old o-ring. Discard the o-ring a its not needed again. The filter will come with a replacement.

The WIF sensor with the new o-ring ready to go into the new filter.

Here is the new filter ready to be installed. I dont use any grease or lubricant on the large o-ring as I find it causes it to move around alot on the filter, press it into the groove dry and it will stay better. I use just a dab of vasoline on the internal seal to help assemble it. When installing the filter to the filter head, center it up and press up on the filter to seat the center seal.. this will help it screw on easier.

This is the primer pump on the top of the filter head.

The screwdriver is on the bleeder screw. Notice mine is the S/S version that is available aftermarket, the oem is black and made of plastic with a hex on the outside that your 13mm socket will fit nicely. Notice the size of the screwdriver, a common mistake is to use one that is too small and damage the bleeder screw.

To bleed, loosen the bleeder screw some and then prime using the primer pump. Just push it in and let it release then push again, continue until you get fuel from the bleeder screw. Once you get fuel from the bleeder, tighten the screw and pump about 15 more times or until the primer becomes noticably harder to push.. Reconnect your electrical connections that you unhooked earlier. Clean up any spilled fuel from the head or frame rail. Start the truck and it should start and stay running. If it dies after a few seconds, you may have air still. Repeat the bleeding process. Check for leaks and your done!

I like to cut my filters open and I use a exhaust cutter to do it. This particular one is from MAC tools but anything comparable will do.

Here is the cutter ready to go to work

Here is the element from my truck, about 6k miles on this one.

Just for comparrison, this filter was 20k old and never used an additive. Its well used up. Below is a pic of the same filter inside the can, notice the rust build up.

Well, thats the way I change these filters. I think I had a total of 15 minutes invested in the whole job and was only slowed down because of trying to get good pics. I hope that this will help all of you tackle this routine maintenance with confidence.

Eric

Mr X · Oct 26, 2003

Thanks a lot Eric.

Fish2Max · Oct 26, 2003

An excellent piece of instructional work. Your first chapter for us Duramx Tips for Dummies.

HisDMAX · Oct 26, 2003

Thanks Eric! I have been planning to change my filter on my 03. Only 7000 mi but after recent reading better early than later! I wasn't sure which way was best to get to the filter, now I know.

Good pictures make any job alot easier.

Mike

OC_DMAX · Oct 26, 2003

The trick with the A/C line, is it left permanently pushed toward the firewall or does it come back to it's original position?

Burner · Oct 26, 2003

Good Job

Burner------->

dmaxalliTech · Oct 26, 2003

OC_DMAX said:
The trick with the A/C line, is it left permanently pushed toward the firewall or does it come back to it's original position?

I leave it there. That way you only have to move it once, I doubt anyone will even notice it being moved so I wouldnt worry bout that.

Eric

RanaExcavating1 · Oct 26, 2003

Eric

Which lift pump did you install. And are you using a pressure regulator?

Rana

smartfix · Oct 26, 2003

hello Eric

YOU beet me to the Change out.. We do the same.. But we move the blue trubo line to the right and the rest is easy..
Just get a new Cam tonight 6.2 SLR Dig Cannon.. Have to find other pic's to take <smile>

From steve

Ray403Dmax · Oct 26, 2003

Eric,

Thanks for both the lesson and photos. How do you attribute not having any diesel fuel spillage? Is there one step that ensures it as I recall most of us have some spillage.

Thanks!

hoot · Oct 26, 2003

First Class!

Thanks for putting the time in Eric!

I found a little trick with the big o-ring. I stretch it a little. Then it stays in the groove.Edited by: hoot

dmaxalliTech · Oct 26, 2003

Ray403Dmax said:
Eric,

Thanks for both the lesson and photos. How do you attribute not having any diesel fuel spillage? Is there one step that ensures it as I recall most of us have some spillage.

Thanks!

A sttteeaddy hand is all thats nneded! since the fuel level is normally lower than that, I dont find draining needed

Rana, I have a carter pump on mine, but its terrible noisy, Its gonna have to be quieted down or replaced. I will likely end up going to the A/C delco 6.5 lift pump as it is very quiet and only puts about 3.5-4.0 lbs pressure at the test port. I find that acceptable.

Eric

ag4gt · Oct 26, 2003

Thanks for the very good artical.

RanaExcavating1 · Oct 26, 2003

Eric

Thanks for the pump info. I was leaning towards the OEM 6.2/6.5 frame mounted lift pump.

I have one other question. I am about to install a racor 490 directly in place of the factory filter. Where is the facory heating element located? Is it located in the top of the filter base? And would the heater wiring handle the racor 200w heater element? Is it always hot or is it controlled by a stat?

My only concern with an aftermarket filter pre oem is that it is hanging down under the truck without any form of heat could cause problems. And at that point what good is the secondary (OEM) heater if you cant get fuel to it in the cold. MAybe I can find a 12 volt band heater to wrap the frame mounted cat, baldwin or perma cool set up.

I realize any form of higher filtration is good but what is the sence of placing a 2 micron primary (high efficiency Cat filter) and having a secondary filter (OEM) which filters at less of a rate?

I would think a 10 or a 30 micron primary and a 2 micron secondary filter would be the best choice. Thats what I am heading for.

What are your thoughts?

Son of a gun · Oct 26, 2003

Eric,

Thanks for some good quality work.

Rana,

The VorMax pre OEM filter mentioned in George Morrison's recent article on Dirty Fuel has a 12 Volt heater system. I have been speaking with Dallas at VorMax and he may be able to provide us with a good deal more info soon, including pricing and supply. This co. has made large truck filter systems for a long time, as I understand it.

BobEdited by: Son of a gun

RanaExcavating1 · Oct 27, 2003

Bob,

The vormax is a sharp set up

. This is the first I have heard of it. Very Nice. I see they have made a package for the 6.0 PSD. I wonder if they will make a kit for the Dmax.

Thanks for the info.

dmaxalliTech · Oct 27, 2003

the Racor 600 series has a heater option in it. The oem heater is located in the filter head.

BIGMoe · Oct 27, 2003

Thanks Eric,

I am going to do my first fuel filter change in about 2,000 mikes. I have heard 3 or 4 differnt way to change it. Yours looks straight forward and simple. I had on GM Tech tell me he always pulls the whole assembly and does it on his work bench. I like your method a lot better, no use in making more work to do the same job.

Thanks for the fine instructions

jobber · Oct 27, 2003

Thanks a bunch Eric. I wouldn't atempt to do this my self with out your helpful instructions & pics.

You deserve a medal !

Pick · Oct 27, 2003

I really do not think the fuel heater is needed, with today's fuels where I live in Ohio. I have several diesel tractors and none of them have fuel heaters. They do get used for snow plowing, and are stored in unheated buildings or out in the open. Never had gelling problems. I have never used additives, but their fuel comes from the local farm coop. I did however start using FPPF in them recently.

Back in the 80's when I drove truck, the company I worked for had Macks. I do not recall seeing a fuel heater on those either. Never any gelling problems.

Chevysrus · Oct 31, 2003

Anyone with less steady hands than Eric or worried about spillage just slip a plastic baggy up over the filter from the bottom (like a condom) once you break it loose. As you unscrew it any leakage will go into the baggy and if you drop it, it will fall into the plastic baggie and hopefully you can grab it before it all spills out.

A Walmart bag or any plastic bag works well too.

So Don't worry, be Happy!!!

Great Job Eric!!

Frank Blum · Oct 31, 2003

A one gallon Zip Loc works a lot better. Later! Frank

Roegs · Nov 3, 2003

Super job on the procedures Eric! I used them this evening to change my filter. I'm really glad to see a process that does not require removal of the wheel liner.

I had just a few notes on the process....I did not have to disconnect both wiring connectors, only had to disconnect the one connection for WIF.

I pushed as hard as I could (its hard to get the proper angle) on the AC line, but could not get it to bend. For those of us not having Eric's brute strength

, I found that a piece of 1x2 wood can be used to bend the line by wedging it into the existing bend of the AC line, and prying against the line itself. Use the new filter to see if there is enough clearance after each attempt at bending the line. It would be easy to bend too much using the 1x2. My AC line was just right when it was bent so that the section that rises up from the accumulator can was vertical. Edited by: Roegs

Zip from Tenn · Nov 11, 2003

Another thank you to Eric. If I might include this step- it's been a help to me to clean out the wif sensor housing while it's out. I find lots of dirt in it. I use a spray cleaner to wash it out.

zip

hoot · Nov 11, 2003

Changed my filters yesterday. Even though I thought I had both filters bled (post OEM Racor) she still wouldn't start.

I pumped up the system with the OEM bleeder pump and she started right up.

fixcnc · Nov 22, 2003

Awsome job Eric the Great!

Fuel Filter replacment pics/instructions

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