I was wondering how often you guys change the gear oil in your front and rear axle. I talked to one mechanic who said every 7,500 if you tow a lot, if you only tow once and a while he said 15,000. To me these seem really low but idk. Also what are you guys using for fluid, i have changed mine once and used the GM synthetic 75w 90 but a 26 bucks a quart its pretty expensive, is there a equally good alternative that meets the GM requirements?
07lbz3500dually
I change mine around once a year regardless of towing.
I have been using Mobil 1 for years. Never had a problem. If you are towing heavy going to 75W140 would be a better fluid for you, and maybe 2 times a year, but still depends on how far you tow.
I have been using Mobil 1 for years. Never had a problem. If you are towing heavy going to 75W140 would be a better fluid for you, and maybe 2 times a year, but still depends on how far you tow.
I do mine every 50k miles regaurdless of time. I use the Amsoil Severe Gear which is one of the best on the market and I could get it to you for waaaaaayyyyyyless than the GM synthetic gear oil. PM me if you would like a quote or if you want to use synthetics in more than the diffs take me up on the 6 month trial membership offer I have in the vendor section to join the wholesale program with Amsoil and buy direct from Amsoil at my cost.
Trial Membership
Trial Membership
I change at about 50K as well normally. I run/stock/sell Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w90. I have had zero issues with this fluid. The Amsoil severe gear is also very good. I always change a new truck after 1K to 5K miles then get on my 50K intervals for the most part.
"I talked to one mechanic who said every 7,500 if you tow a lot, if you only tow once and a while he said 15,000"
"I change mine around once a year regardless of towing"
Holy crap, I thought I was anal with the fluids. I better step it up. I'm going to change mine right now. I run Mobil 1 75W-140 in the rear, Mobil 1 75W-90 in the front. I've never had an analysis on it though, its pricey enough getting the engine oil tested.
"I change mine around once a year regardless of towing"
Holy crap, I thought I was anal with the fluids. I better step it up. I'm going to change mine right now. I run Mobil 1 75W-140 in the rear, Mobil 1 75W-90 in the front. I've never had an analysis on it though, its pricey enough getting the engine oil tested.
I change mine @ 50k with amsoil 75/90 . no towing but drags and sled pulls. To me anything less than 30k would be a waste.
Seems to me that no matter what or how much you tow, changing diff oil every 7500mi is just crazy.
After my initial break-in and diff oil change, I do changes every 30K with whatever the dealership uses. I will be switching to Amsoil for both diffs on the next change and extend out to 50K miles.
For the record, the dealership MECHANIC told me that I should change my engine oil every 3000 miles or 3 months, guess who is making out big time with that advice? I go 5000 miles per oil change and probably should go to 7500 miles. Over doing the fluid changes is wasteful not only in money, but also in natural resourses. Just my $.02 worth.
After my initial break-in and diff oil change, I do changes every 30K with whatever the dealership uses. I will be switching to Amsoil for both diffs on the next change and extend out to 50K miles.
For the record, the dealership MECHANIC told me that I should change my engine oil every 3000 miles or 3 months, guess who is making out big time with that advice? I go 5000 miles per oil change and probably should go to 7500 miles. Over doing the fluid changes is wasteful not only in money, but also in natural resourses. Just my $.02 worth.
Just make sure its topped off is all it takes, that oil does nothing but lube gears, It dont get used like engine oil, which lubes bearings, rings, gears and is pumped and filtered over and over again and transfers heat. You never have to change gear oil if you dont submerge the axle in water or mud. My ranger has 478k (died) and it never had a change just always made sure fluid ran out of the fill hole and capped it off. Dads 01 dmax, almost 600k on it and never had an axle change just kept topped off and never had any problem no slop or sounds or anything, locker hits like it did day one. Unless the axle is used for severe work and abuse, 50k or b4 is throwin your money away. I havent changed mine at 86k and I wont Ill just make sure its always full. Just my opinion...
Here it is:
[Notes from Eaton on their at http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/p...cs/index.html]
How the Eaton Automatic Locker Works:
During normal driving conditions, the differential operates as a conventional "open" differential. But as soon as wheel slip occurs in either forward or reverse, the locking mechanism engages. A flyweight governor in the differential responds to differences in speeds. During normal driving, the governor does not influence differential action. But whenever one wheel's speed substantially exceeds the other's, which only occurs during wheel slip, the governor spins rapidly causing the flyweight to open. The flyweight then catches a latching bracket and begins lockup. During lockup, a self-energizing clutch system causes a cam plate to ramp against a side gear. This ramping compresses the disc packs that are inserted between the side gears and the case. The ramping increases until both axles turn at the same speed (full lock) which prevents further wheel slip. The entire locking procedure takes a fraction of a second and is unnoticed by the average driver. Unlocking occurs when both wheels regain traction.
Automatic Locking Differential Lubricants. [Note from Michael Asmussen, Torque Control Products Division of Eaton Corp.] We recommend the following lubrications for our locking differentials:
1)Texaco 2276; Synthetic 75 W90; Gm Part # 9986115
2)Texaco 9622; Mineral based 80W90; GM Part # 9985290
3)Texaco 2080; Synthetic 75W140 (heavy duty applications); GM part # 9985991
Note - All of the above lubes are preblended with friction modifier. No additional modifiers are necessary or recommended. As far as other lubes are concerned, any standard GL 5 lube will work, but the units perform optimally with the three listed above.
[Notes from Eaton on their at http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/p...cs/index.html]
How the Eaton Automatic Locker Works:
During normal driving conditions, the differential operates as a conventional "open" differential. But as soon as wheel slip occurs in either forward or reverse, the locking mechanism engages. A flyweight governor in the differential responds to differences in speeds. During normal driving, the governor does not influence differential action. But whenever one wheel's speed substantially exceeds the other's, which only occurs during wheel slip, the governor spins rapidly causing the flyweight to open. The flyweight then catches a latching bracket and begins lockup. During lockup, a self-energizing clutch system causes a cam plate to ramp against a side gear. This ramping compresses the disc packs that are inserted between the side gears and the case. The ramping increases until both axles turn at the same speed (full lock) which prevents further wheel slip. The entire locking procedure takes a fraction of a second and is unnoticed by the average driver. Unlocking occurs when both wheels regain traction.
Automatic Locking Differential Lubricants. [Note from Michael Asmussen, Torque Control Products Division of Eaton Corp.] We recommend the following lubrications for our locking differentials:
1)Texaco 2276; Synthetic 75 W90; Gm Part # 9986115
2)Texaco 9622; Mineral based 80W90; GM Part # 9985290
3)Texaco 2080; Synthetic 75W140 (heavy duty applications); GM part # 9985991
Note - All of the above lubes are preblended with friction modifier. No additional modifiers are necessary or recommended. As far as other lubes are concerned, any standard GL 5 lube will work, but the units perform optimally with the three listed above.
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