Strange I had no problem using a combination wrench but double wrenched it with another...? I put the box end on it reversed and bumped them loose no problem... Later I eliminated the EGR cooler all together and made my own block plate & support bracket (also made the plate for the intake side as well)... Soon will fab a complete intake pipe with its on brackets for support...

 

Those nuts are tightened by the hand of God (so I've been told). I couldn't get enough leverage with a socket/wrench either. Gonna have to use a double combo wrench (for leverage) to get them loose.

 

I gave up on it today....but I'll try the double wrench idea when I feel like fighting with it again. Thanks for the tip.

 

It was sugested by some here to crawl/lay across the engine from the driver's side and get your right hand on the tool. It worked for me.

 

They are tight, really tight. Lay across the motor as suggested above. This will give you the leverage you need to break the nuts loose. Just be sure to not round off the nuts. A box end wrench is probably the best tool for the job

 

Hmm.....never even thought of that. Sounds like a good plan of attack.

 

I'll be playing with my nuts today or tomorrow. I'll try using some lube first thing. I just hope I don't snap a stud. Know off hand, what size the nuts are? Wish I had some anti-sieze to use for re-assembly.

 

They're 12mm on mine. I will probably dab a bit of anti-seize on them at reassembly, if I ever get them off, unless there's a reason I shouldn't.

 

When I did mine, the day before I spayed it with PB Blaster while it was still warm. Did the same thing the day I did the install.

Used the double wrench trick and pulled from the driver side. IIRC it is a 12 point nut, so use a tight fitting 12 point wrench.

 

Can someone please explain how the two wrenches are used in conjunction with one another? I have a picture in my mind of how it should work, but I'd like to make sure it's the right way before I break a wrench, or my hand, or both!

 

 

Cool, thanks. That's what I thought. Never have done it before, learn something new every day!

 

The only thing I do different from the picture is to use the other side of the open end. It is less likely to slip off since it is angled against the center of the line of action instead of into it where it can slide up and off.

It also helps to have the exhaust slightly warm to the touch when trying to remove the nuts.

 

I wouldn't bother with anti seize unless its something of the extreme high temp variety. Even blocked that pipe gets really hot and will simply burn off anything you put on there

 

That's what I was wondering. I know from working on my snowmobile and reading on those forums, that guys say not to bother with Loctite on the exhaust manifold bolts for that same reason. Even the high temp stuff isn't enough in that application. Thanks for the heads-up.

 

Finnished installling blocker plate about an hour ago. No problems, that is until I went to change the programing. My Edge Evolution locked up in the middle of programming. Got a comunications error message. I cycled the key and it showed the truck was in the stock program. Now the truck won't even crank over and the EVo says I need to call tech support. Have had a few problems with the EVO over the 3 months I've had it. Not real happy with Edge right now!!!!!!

 

:facepalm:

 

Still no joy. Fought with it a couple hours and gave up. It's going to my friendly local mechanic tomorrow. He can't put in the plate for legal reasons, but he has no problem with freeing up frozen nuts. On the bright side, I did get my PCV re-routed and my rear shocks put on before I called it a day.

 

Told ya they are tight, plus being where they are doesn't make things any easier. Remember, the plate might require a little adjustment once in. When I first put mine in, I pushed it all the way down against the studs-it leaked. A small adjustment to center it more fixed the issue for good.

 

Yeah, they are tight....but I think the biggest problem is the location, just no room to work or get any leverage. I did manage to get an air ratchet on one of them but it just laughed at said ratchet. I was going to teach it a lesson and just put a nut splitter on it, but my splitter of the right size (my good splitter is too big) is a POS and I couldn't even get that to work!

 

Well, got the blocker plate installed but it feels like it's leaking. I've tried adjusting it but to no avail. Any tips/hints/secrets I should know about? What happens if I can't get it to seal?

 

What do you mean it "feels?"

If it's leaking, you'll hear it.

 

Just the normal tips.
loosen.
make sure the plate is next to the intake manifold, gasket on the back (exhaust) side.
Be sure it's positioned properly.
take up evenly on nuts and tighten.

 

make sure the plate is next to the intake manifold, gasket on the back (exhaust) side.

My bad, used the wrong terminology. The above quote describes how I have it positioned. Pretty sure that's how the installation was described and shown in the DIY thread. If it's wrong, then maybe that's my problem.

 

I guess I should have paid attention to what it felt/sounded like before the install. I don't know as though I heard anything, but it felt like air/exhaust was escaping from around it. But, I don't know for sure either that it wasn't just air current from the fan.

 

Plate is next to the exhaust manifold. Maybe I should get new nuts and clean off the studs as best as I can so that my wrench can get as good a bite as it can and so that the corrosion isn't giving me a false sense of tightness.

 

Gasket goes between plate and turbo side.

No gasket or 2nd gasket between plate and EGR cooler.

 

Then adjust it a little.