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diesel leak

14K views 36 replies 15 participants last post by  dieselolds  
#1 ·
got a diesel leak at the block that attaches to the fuel filter. i have the huge rectangular box filter.

the shop says they can't fix it. they have had it for 5 hours. they also say they can't find the parts to rebuild it. and that it can't be changed for a diff style filter, etc.

what can i do?

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
I know some people get rid of the box filter and put on a different type. Not sure what they use.

On my TDI VW They change out the regular filter with an adapter to make the CAT filters work. They double the filtering.
 
#3 ·
I believe what you need to fix it is a simple o-ring that is usually the problem. Finding the o-ring that is the right size might be the only issue with doing it (i have no experience with this whatsoever though).

As for it not being able to change to a different style filter setup is completely wrong. You might not be able to do that with all the stock fuel lines, but cut some up and replace with fuel rated rubber line to connect to whatever setup you change too. Mounting locations would obviously have to change as well but it sounds like your mechanics are professional "Parts Replacers" and have no clue how to deviate from their ALLDATA instructions.
 
#4 ·
the mechanic i took it to supposedly worked on the 6.5L diesel as a Chevy mechanic when they were sold new and he did work on my buddies 6.5 powered truck. replaced fuel lines, one faulty glow plug and one faulty injector.

i will have to look into the o-ring idea. thanks
 
#6 ·
depends where the leak is. some are where the filter attaches, others are the air bleed and fuel drain or heater element. some of these take a square cut ring. Fred IIRC, uses a piece of cleanly cut heater hose of the correct diameter.
you can go to a big truck shop and get a frame mounted filter assembly that will use cheaper screw on filters
 
#7 ·
You could go with a NAPA filter setup like diaric said, can't remember what the number was but it will let you use the spin-on filters.
 
#8 ·
!

the mechanic says the water in fuel sensor is leaking.

ive been trying to read up on the leaking problems with stanadyne filter housings. can i just have my mechanic remove the water in fuel sensor, tap the hole, put a screw in and put some silicone over it?

like this thread says
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3458022

i am leaning towards having the mechanic do that, and then i'll swap out to a racor 445 setup down the road. unless there is a better setup.

Thanks again everybody!
 
#9 ·
Phone a bone yard for another unit and R&R, would be the quickest.

Second, follow the direction in a Haynes manual on how to disassemble and re assemble the Model 80 filter assembly, they are very good especially if you live in a cold area.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Napa part 4309 is the number for the spin on base, its about $30. The fliters are spin on with water separator petcock at the bottom, about $15 each. You'll need some line and something to fab up a mount. I bought the mount, two filters, and all the hardware excluding the rubber lines for right at $70. Going to do the swap at the next oil change. The filter is 3123 for a 12 micron, 3124 for a 6 micron. Good Luck
 
#24 ·
How often, if ever, do these filter housings go bad, & start to leak?
 
#11 ·
good info Mwy123, think we'll add that to the facts
 
#13 ·
yeah tap the hole and fill it with silicone and a screw/bolt. The only thing you will lose is the light coming on when the fuel filter is full. Not a big deal.
 
#14 ·
Now I have an idea for a fuel pressure gauge that goes into the IN line of the screw on base. Anybody have a suggestion for a place to get a 1/2 NPT male fitting, hose barb on the other side, and a 1/8 NPT at 90 degrees? My local hardware store does not have it. I was thinking summit racing, but 50 miles is a long drive for one fitting.
 
#15 ·
Just wondering, Why before the fuel filter? Some have put a gauge on after the fuel filter so they can judge when to replace the filter.
 
#17 ·
I was actually thinking of running one before and one after. The first to make sure the fuel pump is getting fuel and is pumping it, the second to tell when the filter is stopped up.
 
#16 ·
I would replace the whole thing and use a spin on filter housing from a pre 85. That way you simply spin on a new filter, also there are 2 different filters used in that set up, at least from factory. I did that on my old burban. Made a big difference.
 
#18 ·
Sorry for the long time to update. Current housing still leaking. New filter has slowed down leak. And I just bought the 4309/3123 filter housing/filter.

But now, what fuel line size should I use? What fittings as well? Anything else? I would like to add to add a fuel pressure gauge after the filter as mentioned earlier.

Thanks again!
 
#19 ·
3/8ths before the filter and 5/16ths after. Pretty sure not certain.

rubber lines and hose clamps work just fine. I've used trans oil cooler line and haven't had any noticeable issues. Fuel line size isn't really an issue, just don't go too small or you can increase pressure to the point of effecting the IP, happens around 15psi. there used to be a frequent poster who always said that the IP needed fuel flow more than it needs pressure.
 
#20 ·
ok. so i finally got everything hooked up. and spent the past two hours trying to stop te new setup from leaking! It's worse than the old box filter leak.

only thing i can think of is because I used brass fittings from Home Depot because Napa didn't have the brass fittings in stock.

I used teflon tape on all the fittings. i redid them at least three times. still leaks at thne fittings.
 
#21 ·
Did you get it to stop leaking?
 
#23 ·
long time, no see. did you ever get that engine going?
 
#25 ·
The model 80's? They spring seal leaks all the time. There is a good debate whether it's the new ULSD or the additive package or just additives that people add to they're own tank that cause the seals to turn hard and crack causing an air leak.

I did it to a brand new model 80 fuel filter with one shot of an additive. New soft seals one week, rock hard, cracked and leaking a couple weeks later.
 
#26 ·
Every oil change, I add a cup of Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel tank, & with the new engine oil too. Also once a month, I run a bottle of tranny fluid through the fuel tank. Could these additives be bad for it?
 
#27 ·
I wouldn't be putting trany fluid through your IP as it is a grabby fluid not a true lubricant like engine oil.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the info, I shall STOP adding the trans fluid IMMEDIATELY!

I was running the trans fluid as I was told it's the BEST injector cleaner that money can buy. Know of a good injector cleaner to use instead?
 
#29 ·
Thanks for the info, I shall STOP adding the trans fluid IMMEDIATELY!

I was running the trans fluid as I was told it's the BEST injector cleaner that money can buy. Know of a good injector cleaner to use instead?
 
#30 ·
Sea Foam off the top of my head, others will post up.

There was a good study on centane and lubricity increase or decreases a while ago but I can't remember the tread except bio topped the list.
 
#31 ·
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