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Discussion starter · #21 ·
2000rpm should be 4-6"H2O - that's where the CDR begins limiting increasing vacuum
 
So which is it? Bad CDR or too much blow by?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Dunno, my friend - 2000rpm is the test - requires sufficient low pressure at the compressor inlet to gage the test
 
Roger wilco... will recheck.
 
Okay, did a road test... with higher range magnahelic gauge (0-15") instead of (0-2") ran line off of oil dip stick up through the door and set gauge on windshield.

At idle
< .5" WC

Depending upon accelleration would average 3". Would spike to 5-6", then snap back to 3". Looks like the CDR is working almost as it should. It just doesn't have enough pressure drop across the air filter to generate any higher vacuum level.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Lookin' good.............

Do like them magnehelics.
 
Can you use a vacuum/pressure guage instead of a manometer?

I see you say to upgrade to the newer style, why? what year does the newer style start?

I have 60,000 miles on mine and its never been changed, I can guarantee that, I guess its time to change it.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Sure - if you can find one calibrated in 0-10"H2O - normally, they're cal'ed in 0-30"HG which is 405"H2O - you're lookin' fer 0-6"H2O

Or you can find a magnehelic, which is cal'ed in "H2O - 27"H2O = 2"HG = 1psi

Cheaper to stick a tube in a bucketo'water, I suspect.
 
Ok, thanks. What about updating the CDR?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Later versions on valve cover are simpler, but the 2007 turbo engines went back to the early style - to the oil fill tube - to prevent raw oil being pulled thru the valve cover at hi-cfm\Boost levels.

However, like the lazy surgeon sez - suitcher self..............
 
I was at the GM dealer this morning and they needed the VIN from my '94 Blazer because the books showed two different CDR versions for the Blazer depending on if it was an "H" "S" or "P" engine mine was an "S", I'm new at this so I have NO clue what this all means or if it's true, But the GM part # was CV196 at $53.00, NAPA needed 4 days to get it in, GM will have it in the morning.
Manuel
 
Manuel B;1739600; said:
I was at the GM dealer this morning and they needed the VIN from my '94 Blazer because the books showed two different CDR versions for the Blazer depending on if it was an "H" "S" or "P" engine mine was an "S", I'm new at this so I have NO clue what this all means or if it's true, But the GM part # was CV196 at $53.00, NAPA needed 4 days to get it in, GM will have it in the morning.
Manuel

Turbo and non-Turbo. Engine code is 8 digit on the Vin, when looking from the left. If still unsure, give them the Vin and they can tell you.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Do the tube-in-a-jar method - should pull the water up no more than 4-6" at 2000rpm - CDR passes.

If it's blowing bubbles, call your kids and show them what a neat trick dad's truck can do..................

CDR still passes.
 
The Heath folks told me to test the amount of blow-by before ordering their chip and TM due to my 244,600 miles, I ran a tube into a jar on the ground, it didn't suck water up, and didn't blow bubbles either,?, but I didn't know about trying it at 2,000 rpm until I read it here, or starting it up AFTER it was all hooked up so I didn't have a starting point for referance, BUT my turbo outlet union is oily black, they said that was another sign of a bad CDR, I'll try it again tomorrow with the new CDR and follow the directions I read here.

GM was only searching for the 6.5TD blazer 1994, they said two of the engines used the same CDR, and the third used the other one. Again I'm just repeating what I was told, I bought my truck early January, everything is still about as clear to me as string theory.
Manuel
 
there was a guy selling CDR's on ebay for $25
 
This is going to sound like a stupid question, but anyone know how to take the CDR valve off?

I'm trying to chase down a vacuum problem and noticed the CDR valve can moves around really easy. I want to pop it off to take a look at the rubber seal and maybe give it a clean, but I can't figure out how the damn thing comes off!

I've tried just pulling on it (really hard), and short of breaking it off I don't know what else to do. Is there some release or a trick I don't know?
 
On my truck, I just pull it out. Make sure to pull straight out while twisting it a little. It can be a bit hard to remove. But it will come out.

The CDR is installed in a rubber grommet. It catches on the lip. See red arrow in this picture:

 
The CDR Valve can not be very effective IF the Crankcase Ventilation System isnt completely sealed. Thoroughly inspect all the hoses and the CDRV's rocker arm cover grumet. The vacuum signal from the cold air intake track is easily lost if the system is not sealed properly.
Note that a dirty air filter will create excessive vacuum in the cold air intake track causing the CDRValve to draw more oil droplets and/or vapors and contribute to making an oily mess throughout the intake track...
 
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