I think the significantly higher cylinder pressure of a diesel results in a significantly higher likelyhood that the HG sealer product is unlikely to work.

 

Im thinking that if i run it with the sealer up to operating temp and then shut it off that the pressure of the coolont will push the sealant into the hole and cure in there,then flush the coolant for hours

 

Thats another question i have.. How is no water showing up in my oil if the hg is blown and it builds all that pressure in the coolant even when the truck is off wouldnt that built up pressure push it through the hg hole

 

You can try it, but personally, I would expect a low probability of success. Maybe it'll work good enough to last until you've got the money/time to replace the HG.

Whether/how the oil and water mix depends on which part/s of the HG has failed.

 

I have never used it my self but know guys who have and they say it does not work

 

Guys i just drained my coolant,does this look like oil or diesel? It has that rainbowy color to it like fuel but none of the coolant had any black in it like oil?

 

Looks more like diesel to me. And you need to get your leaf blower out.

 

that is diesel my friend

 

Diesel in your coolant -- you've got multiple issues going on.

I wouldn't use the "fixit in a bottle" either. Will cause you more grief later.

 

Really hoping that its diesel and not oil! Haha and if only i had a leaf blower! This is just a slab of concrete where i do oil changes.. I used the k&w sealer yesterday with the heater core bypassed and thermostats taken out.im going to flush it today.

 

Could a bad injector sleeve be letting pressure in my coolant and keeping the rad rock hard after cooling overnight?

 

Could a bad injector sleeve be letting pressure in my coolant and keeping the rad rock hard after cooling overnight?

Do you mean the radiator hose? Your other thread on the subject has the hose not hard – even says so in the title. These guys (not me) on here are as knowledgeable on these engines as anyone you will find, but it’s tough even for them to give you advice if you can’t tell them what the problem is.

 

Yes originally it wasnt hard and then i updated saying i put a new cap on and it stayed hard because the onld cap was letting the pressure go by. I appreciate any knowledge that i can get passed down.the k&w nano sealer ive been running the lst couple days may have bandaided whatever was leaking because now the upper rad hose is getting softer after cooling..but how soft should it be when all the way cool?should there be any pressure at all?

 

How soft should it be….? Well, the answer is – it depends. The reason it is soft is because of a principle known as pressure differential. The greater the pressure difference between the inside and the outside of the hose, the more collapsed or softer the hose will be. Pressure is directly related to temperature, so the greater the temperature difference between the operating temperature and the ambient temperature the greater the pressure differential will be. You’re there, I’m here, no way for me to divine any better answer than that.