Welcome, Assuming the batteries, cables, and starter are good, check voltage at the crank fuse while you are trying to start, the crank fuse only has voltage when the key in in start. That is to make sure power is coming from the ignition switch. If the crank fuse has 12v. while in start then other things need to be checked.

 

Welcome to Dieselplace!

First and foremost, how are your battery cables? If they are corroded, loose or anything that can cause this issue. My truck did the same thing with a new starter and batteries. All I did was clean my cable ends and made sure they were tight and it hasn't done it since.

Also, please tell me you installed the bracket on the front of the starter? It's a small angled metal bracket that goes from the starter to the side of the engine block. VERY important this is installed or it can cause the starter to break starter bolts, ruin flywheel/flexplate teeth, or worse, crack the block.

Next question, was the truck running before you replaced this stuff? Or did you assume it won't start because of these items? Have you tried to turn the motor by hand?

 

When I bought the truck it was not running and the seller took the batteries. When I replaced the batteries I cleaned all the grounds except the ground on the alternator bracket and the ground on the intake. Also whoever previously owned the truck must have done something with the starter bracket as I do not have it!

 

And the motor will turn by hand

 

GM part numbers for starter bracket:

23502557 for gear reduction starter,
14028931 direct drive starter

Order from a local dealer or get one from GMPartsGiant.com

Is the cable running from the (+) terminal on the passenger side battery to the starter in good condition?

 

Awesome thank you! And the + cable to the starter looks to be in good condition

 

Get that bracket right away! I wouldn't even attempt to start the truck without it. I can't even count the number of times i've seen broken starter bolts. I have a 6.5 block from a truck I bought for parts laying in my scrap pile with a completely broken off starter pad from not having that bracket installed.

Sounds like you have a wiring issue somewhere. Double and triple check those cables, remember, corrosion can carry inside the cables where you can't see it. Would be best to have a multimeter to check things out.

 

Get that bracket right away! I wouldn't even attempt to start the truck without it.

X2!!!

 

If the truck has not been started for a while, you may have more issues than what you think.

Make sure the LP is running, cranking will be long.

Assuming starter without bracket has not messed up the flywheel.

Also, check the fuses.

 

So the starter is for sure the 1 click you hear? How long or what do you have to do before it clicks again or was there only one click since you bought the truck?

Are they factory looking side post battery cables?

 

Yes it is definitely the starter and it will click one time each time you turn the key and they do appear to be factory style side post battery cables.

 

Take a look at this mod: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/2755252-post5.html.

If your battery cables are old, the factory style terminals corrode inside the plastic cover. Cut the covers off and thoroughly clean them til they shine. Then do the mod for much better cable connection to the battery.

 

So you stick the key in the ignition, turn it to run, pretend its not a diesel and turn to start you get one click from the starter? You then let the key go back to run, you turn it back to start do you get another click? Or do you have to go to off then back to start to get another click?

Not trying to insult you but you do have enough diesel / general automotive experience to tell the difference between the starter and say the glow plug solenoid? Just asking, don't want to have you tear the truck down going after a starter problem and find out this is your first time under a hood for anything more than washer fluid. Also don't want to go over basics if we don't have to.

 

No offense taken, this is my first diesel but have spend plenty of time wrenching on stuff. The starter will click once when turning switch to start and again after returning to run and turning to start again

 

You are kinda at a dis advantage here not ever having this truck run before or a similar diesel so this may be the first of many threads for you. At least you found the right place to ask questions. One thing that will help us is to put the basic info about your truck in the signature line, I think its under user CP. It helps us remember what year we are talking about.

If you turn on the headlights when you are trying to start it do you see them dim at all when you go to start? If you see dimming you could have a cable problem but if they seem to hold steady I thinking starter would be the next thing to go after.

I have been having the same symptom with my 6.5's when it gets cold like 10*F. One of them if I had the block heater plugged in it was fine. The other one seems to do it all the time when its cold. If its above freezing they both will engage instantly. On mine I can tell the solenoid is not moving very far. Likely grease oil crud build up that just does not let things move when it gets real cold. Most of the time with mine if I keep cycling it I can get it to engage. I have a spare starter laying on my bench just have not had time to take it apart and clean it.

The other thing that happens to starters that were well used and then sit a long time is the electrical contact part gets corroded and does not let enough power through to actually turn the starter. With these you usually get a pretty good clank because the gear will usually engage or at least extend out and hit the flywheel.

 

Also at least a rough location can help. You don't have to be very specific if you don't want to be but knowing what country helps. Parts tend to be a lot easier to find in the USA and Canada. Also having a clue to the climate you are operating is handy. A not start at 50*F is a lot different to diagnose than a no start at -20*F.

 

I checked this morning and the headlights do dim a little when turning the key and I also check voltage at the crank fuse and it is only reading 9.2 volts. Also I am in Kansas and it is cold here, I have the block heater plugged in and the truck is inside the garage.

 

In a garage and working block heater I would not expect your current issue to be temp related.

Headlights dimming and 9.2 volts still points to cable / connection / battery problem assuming that the dimming is for sure in time with the click from going to start. If all the cables and such were good and it was just the solenoid issue at the starter you would not see anywhere near that kind of load / draw on the system. I would really be going after every connection I could find starting at the batteries.

The glow plugs should be cycling and those have a solenoid that makes a pretty good click and will draw down the system but with good batteries and cables they should not be drawing things down that far either.

 

Thinking about this more if it was me I think I would pull the starter and test it on the bench.

For all we know there are deeper starting issues with this thing and the previous owner cranked it continuously for and hour and completely cooked the starter. That could explain why it clicks and draws the system down so far.

 

Yesterday I bought a starter and still does same thing

 

I think you have 2 bad batteries??? or weak batteries.

The weak or bad batteries will take out starter in a flash.

Load test those batteries one at a time before moving on the diagnosis.
In the mean time, make sure the cables are good.
If there is still that nice looking rubber/plastic cover on the battery terminal, peel them off and wire brush to clean the metal inside.

Check all the grounds.

May want to test the starter also no matter how new they are.
A lot of starter from part store are DOA anyway.

Last but not least, there is a chance that the ignition switch is bad.
I am not sure if anybody has suggested that before.

 

I have also got a bad starter from part store before but the batteries are both new, I'm leaning more towards weak ground somewhere

 

You can try using jumper cables to add grounds in various places.

 

After pulling the starter back out I noticed the ground coming off the starter to the battery the insulation has came off in several places, think I will replace it all together to ensure its properly getting grounded there.

 

No ground from starter to battery. Main battery ground is to a stud on the intake manifold. Just the 12v+ cable from battery to starter. If that cable is bad, definitely must be replaced.

 

Download both DB and DS handbooks.. Not a substitute for FSM but alot more "educational" and useful and helpful than a Haynes, Chilton and any other unauthorized service/repair manuals combined..