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6.2 starts and runs for 2-3 seconds, then dies.

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5.9K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  roadhog0  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sorry if I'm re-treading a previous post, but I couldn't find my answer. I have an 89 suburban with a 6.2, NA engine w/135k miles. I've been having trouble with the engine loosing prime overnight, but when I get it running, it runs great.
So I had a new mechanical fuel pump installed and the problem got a little better, then it got worse. Searching around I found a service bulletin that stated that the HPCA regulator valve should be replaced at the same time, so I changed that out along with the fuel tank pick up assembly and all rubber lines from the tank to the fuel pump. That's when the problem started. After replacing the above items, I pulled the glow plugs to get the system primed back up, still she only starts and runs for 2-3 seconds and dies.

I finally gave up and towed it to my mechanic who says that my injection pump (Stanadyne) isn't producing enough pressure and needs to be replaced ($2000.00). I'm not quite convinced that my pump needs replaced. It worked great one week, then after replacing the HPCA regulator, a week later the pump isn't producing enough pressure? I'm skeptical. Don't get me wrong if the pump needs replaced, I'll do it; I'm just not feeling warm and fuzzy with that diagnosis. Any ideas, suggestions? Thanks for any help! Diesel Burb
 
#2 · (Edited)
So when did this problem start?Just after replacing the governor cover regulator valve?Sounds more like air entry to me.Any air present when you loosen the bleed valve on the filter housing?I know the model 80 fuel filter systems were known for problems allowing air to enter.
 
owns 1996 GMC Sierra SLE
#3 ·
I would go to the kitchen, ya I know I sounds nuts ... but grab the Pam cooking spray and pull the air filter, give each side of the intake 3-5 second spray, cycle the GP's and crank .... it'll fire off of that. Repeat 3-4 times and you should be good



Your whole system is full of air from replacing the lines etc .... and you have to get it out but I also bet you have an air leak from the poor cold start and you have to fix that too.



We have a few ways of doing this but my 2 favorite are pressurizing the return line at the IP or using a BBQ regulator/fuel cap thingy I cooked up. Either way, 5-8 psi tops !!


If you want to know bout this shiet, just ask and we'll get you pointed in the right direction.


:bigglasse
 
#5 ·
Ha ha ha ... I like Olive flavored ...


:bigglasse
 
#6 ·
Sorry for the delay in replying back, I was out of town for a while. My problems started when I replaced the HPCA solenoid inside the pump. After further checking on my end, I discovered that the rubber grommet on the needle portion of the new HPCA solenoid should have been removed before I installed the new part. It seems that leaving this rubber grommet on is causing a closure on the check valve when it's activated. Hence the runs for 2-3 seconds then shuts off. My mechanic got the rubber grommet off and it appears to start and run now. They are just checking a few other items to make sure there are no other issues.
 
#7 ·
Great to hear !!


:bigglasse
 
#8 ·
Mmmm, reminds me of when I put my 6.2 together for the second time. Put it all in, went to light it off and I could only get it to fire for a half second really hard then die. Tried that for about 30 seconds then figured out I forgot to put the power wire to the shut off solenoid..... Doh!