Diesel Place banner

2005 Dura Max Fuel Filter Change Information.

5.4K views 44 replies 15 participants last post by  Yaz  
#1 · (Edited)
I am sure this has been addressed before, but I wanted to share my fuel filter changing ideas.

Also, at the bottom of this thread, I posted some photos of my filter opened up. Curious how it compares to others who have cut theirs open.


FUEL FILTER Replacement...
I go though the fender well to remove it (as I know some do). Once the wire is unplugged and wire loose.
I unscrew the filter, then seal it with Plastic and a tight rubber band to prevent fuel from getting everywhere. I don't 'bleed' it (but you can if you choose to).

Before replacing the new filter~ I fill it with fresh fuel and slowly pour until it is completely full. I tilt it a few times while filling to remove air. I always wet the seals with fuel before re-instalation.

TO KEEP the fresh FUEL from pouring out of the new filter... I wrap either thick foil or Good plastic around the top of the filter, and use a tight rubber band to hold it in place. Now, I can maneuver it through the wheel well, and not worry about dust, dirt or spilling the fuel while getting it in place for screwing back in.

As anyone who does their own wrenching knows, GM did a horrible job of filter placement. I mean are they on dope when they engineer this stuff? (sorry for the rant)

Ok, it is in place so I take off the foil/plastic, and push the filter straight up to seat the rubber grommet/seal. I carefully turn clockwise, while using upward even pressure to catch the threads. Once seated, I turn the filter another 1/3 of a turn~ DONE.

WHY I do it this way? It eliminates the problem of AIR and LOST PRIME after replacement:cool2: .

In 2 filter changes:grd: , I have NEVER had even a sputter after doing a change this way. Usually after getting it all installed I will push down on the primer 2-3 times. DONE> Start and a run around the block. NO leaks? Great...DONE... Easy. Takes 20 minutes.

I am sure I am not the only one that does it this way, but I hope it helps at least somebody looking for an easy way to get this job done without dealing with priming and starting problems!


My filters always come out black. Is this the new color of the paper? Or is my fuel just that bad? Opinions please!

Cheers all.
Ron

Take a look at my photos of the old filter cut open.
Pure black. I don't know what normal is, as they are always like this.
http://usera.imagecave.com/ronadycks/DuraMaxFilter/
Maybe this is why I get SCHEITTY mileage? ANYONE????
 
#3 ·
Sorry,but you're a glutton for punishment.I simply install the filter without fuel,then use the primer.It only takes a few pumps and you're done.On other diesels,yeah,I fuel them up--ones that have good access--the DM does'nt.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
No Arguement Just another angle for Gettin' It Done

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1508

This is what I use and it works perfect!
Thanks dmaxalliTech
as of today over 48 thousand people have read it and I bet most have done it this way.
I have read this thread, and the photos are great. Also my post is new, so I don't expect "48 thousand" readers.

I presented that post for anyone who has has prime problems or trouble getting their filters out from the top of the engine compartment. I don't like the idea of having to bend the A/C tubing, and dealing with lost prime.

My suggestions compliment DieselTech's method, and take NOTHING away.

Simply I use that method except:

I BRING THE FILTER THROUGH THE FENDER WELL.
I PRE-FILL THE FILTER WITH FUEL AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTIC TO PREVENT SPILLAGE DURING REPLACEMENT.

Otherwise
 
#13 · (Edited)
There were Approximately 13,000 (revised) miles on that filter




I know, what was I thinking?
If the filter paper is NOT grey/black from the factory, I obviously need to change much more.
I plan to do it every 7,500 now.
NOTE: I never threw any codes, and my truck gets crappy mileage anyways, so, I assume there was plenty of flow.

Also, I believe that a dirty :eek: air-filter cleans the air better than a clean one and the same holds true for a dirty fuel-filter:eek: .

MY POINT is... as long as it delivers an amount of filtered fuel (within tolerances), then technically a dirty filter is "filtering better" (finer particulate)than a clean one AS LONG as IT Doesn't Inhibit FLOW. And of course changing within the maintenance schedule is a must, for warranty related claims, I'm sure.

This might NOT make sense to some, but I remember following the Air Filter debate last year, and the stock filter winning out, while holding a far sight more particulate than some of the others BEFORE losing efficiency. It gained efficiency BEFORE losing efficiency by virtue of holding more particulate.

This make sense? Maybe I have it all wrong. I surely am NOT advocating leaving in useless dirty filters. BUT one must decide when efficiency is being effected, and both air and fuel will throw a code when there is problem. Well, I think air, while at least the "meter" will display poor air flow.
 
#8 ·
I was prefilling the filter but someone brought it to my attention that the fuel I was pouring in was NOT filtered and was going into my system....

Now I know the chances of some debries being in the fuel or filter, left over from manufacture,are slim but it made think.. I now place the filter from the top, do not have to bend anything to get it in or out, and use the prime pump to fill the new filter... At least this way I know ALL the fuel has gone through the filter...
 
#15 ·
I touched on this later in the thread.

I was prefilling the filter but someone brought it to my attention that the fuel I was pouring in was NOT filtered and was going into my system....

Now I know the chances of some debries being in the fuel or filter, left over from manufacture,are slim but it made think.. I now place the filter from the top, do not have to bend anything to get it in or out, and use the prime pump to fill the new filter... At least this way I know ALL the fuel has gone through the filter...
I think the filling part is going to lather-up a bunch of debate.:confused:
Like I have said, "don't fill it then":) . My main reason for starting this thread was for anyone who has/had, problems with the A/C line running a bit farther out than others, and the possibility of damaging it by bending too much:badidea: , thus going through the fender well.


As far as my filling the filter, I covered that in the previous post, but suffice it to say, :blahblah: it is NOT contaminated the way I do it.
 
#9 ·
Agree with swatkins, pre filling a fuel filter is a dangerous thing. That is why they put the primer pump on the filter housing.
 
#17 ·
I have a rubber plug I put in the center hole of the filter then I fill it from the holes around the edge of the filter. I think that would be the direction of the fuel flow if I'm not mistaken. Never wanted to post this before cause I knew what I would get, but I'm with you on this one when you plug the center hole.
 
#19 ·
You might want to consider changing the fuel filter on a regular basis, like every 7500 miles. That filter looks horrible compared to the ones I have cut open after 7500 miles. Your reasoning on the filtering efficency of a plugged filter was quite cute, but not exactly accurate, JMO.
 
#22 ·
Ok here are some photos of my engine compartment

First keep in mind the filter I am using for illustration is a stock oil filter which is smaller in EVERY respect. The fuel filter is 4.125 inches in diameter. The oil filter is 3.625.
I only have 3 inches in ANY direction to try and place the filter through the A/C tubing. I believe the thin tubing is the low pressure? I would have to substantially move it out of the way (more than an inch to make clearance once I jockey the filter in place) , risking leakage (however slight).

Note again, the Oil Filter I am using is smaller in every respect. I tried to be fair in illustrating the filter and angles. I could force the filter down, but then I would get caught on the battery tray, and the outlet of the fuel delivery tube (outlet)

If you look at the photo of the wheel well, you can see to slide it up is NO Problem, so why bend anything? This was my point all along.

Arguing the filling of the filter? I will give in to that. But in the case of my truck, going through the fender was a no-brainer.

While it may "appear" I have all the room in the world, I just did not want to risk bending tubing when it was SO easy to slide it up from the bottom.

Hope this helps..
Ron
 

Attachments

#23 ·
BTW, I hope you are changing your little red Allison trans spin on filter more often than your fuel filter. If not, you probably don't want to post pictures of a cut open spin on trans filter that looks as bad as your fuel filter, in the Allison Transmission section. I would hate to see the beating you would take from Mike L. for your "dirty filter efficency reasoning." :eek:
 
#25 ·
NO! not the case.

BTW, I hope you are changing your little red Allison trans spin on filter more often than your fuel filter. If not, you probably don't want to post pictures of a cut open spin on trans filter that looks as bad as your fuel filter, in the Allison Transmission section. I would hate to see the beating you would take from Mike L. for your "dirty filter efficency reasoning." :eek:
I have a handle on maintenence intervals.

I changed it at 3,000, 10,000, 19,000, and 27,000. As well flushed 2 times already, and plan to go with synthetic at 30,000 (after I research the best choice for me) As well, I will go synthetic in the front transfer case (also changed once already).

BTW, I went 13k miles on the fuel filter. Is that a problem?
Dealer changed it at 3,000, I changed it around 15,000, and again at 27,500-ish.

That ok?:rolleyes: btw, I plan to go 7-8k for now on with the fuel filter, due to the obvious crappy fuel in my area of SO CAL>

Just because I make a suggestion that a filter might retain more particulate as it gets used, doesn't mean I won't follow the minimum standards. This exact thinking is what manifested the Great Air Filter Debate last year, and testing of several filters including the clearly inferior Cotton designed models (which I will not name). And, my thinking was supported by that testing, done at a certified testing facility on equipment designed for such tests.

Sadly this particular thread seems to be mostly (not all), conformists not willing to consider another approach or idea at the very least.

Thank God, several of the other folks on this board are not afraid to try new things, such as chips, exhaust, blocker plates, Finger Sticks, headlight mods, and the like, else we would all be driving pure stock trucks and never know the options available.


All I did was suggest another idea in changing the fuel filter. I am beginning to be sorry I did.:badidea: BTW, this is not directed at you personally...
 
#24 ·
I must just have small carny-hands, cause I don't bother with removing the wheel well liner. I don't bend any lines, and I don't pre-fill the filter with unfiltered diesel.

I've done it so many times now between my dad's LB7 and my LLY that I can do it in about 20 minutes start to finish.

Ever change one on the side of the road when it's 10 below zero? I've done things that were more fun. :)
 
#26 · (Edited)
NO, it rarely gets below freezing in CA!!!!

I must just have small carny-hands, cause I don't bother with removing the wheel well liner. I don't bend any lines, and I don't pre-fill the filter with unfiltered diesel.

I've done it so many times now between my dad's LB7 and my LLY that I can do it in about 20 minutes start to finish.

Ever change one on the side of the road when it's 10 below zero? I've done things that were more fun. :)
Not yet! Hope not ever!
But I could if I had to!!!!
The most time consuming part of this job is breaking loose the filter. But I only go a 1/3 of a turn after seating so, I can break mine loose with pure hand strength, (which I have done each time using latex gloves for grip)

PS, I don't remove anything. The wheel well liner pulls aside enough to slip the filter right through. IF you look at my photos, I really don't have a choice unless I REALLY move/bend the A/C lines over.
 
#31 ·
PUre black...

Ewwww.... that filter is NASTY.

My first two filters.... 9k on one and 11k on the second, both looked pretty much like this one (9k):

Damn, then the fuel around here is not good.
I let the pleats dry out on my filter. They were a grey-ish black.
SO uniform. Almost too uniform in color. Look at the photos.
It would seem that I would have had some areas of lighter color?
I bought my filters at the dealer.

Gonna buy a replacement and see if the color is beige inside.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Ya completely black inside and outside.

Good pics of your fuel filter. I'd never seen one with the pleats separated like that.
That's what intrigued me. Black all the way through.
I mean I expected to see discoloration, but as I posted earlier, it was uniformly black/grey.
See the pix on the link at the top of this thread.
 
#33 ·
I don't mean to hi-jack here butt...
What's the easyiest way you guys are cutting the fuel filters open to get a good look? I have been looking for a pipe cutter with a chain with no luck.
 
#34 ·
I use a hack saw in a vice.



Hack saw in a vice, takes about 5 minutes to open it up. The housing is very soft metal, "almost like alluminum".
You can use a reciprocating saw too, with a " metal" blade. (long)
Both will work, just keep the filter tight in the vice without doing too much damage to it.
 
#35 ·
RICH,

What I find interesting is the pattern of discoloration in these filters.
Every one I have seen, has black discoloration around the inlet holes, but not much where there are no holes. I find that interesting, considering my filter was very much uniform in color.
 
#37 ·
Thanks Richlockyer I have mine I saved I'm going to go open it.. It's like chrismas for us Diesel Fanatics. Hmm what's inside????
 
#39 · (Edited)
Opened it, here is mine at just about 14000 miles. And yes I was getting codes 2000 RPM check engine light etc, this was back around November.

Yes and it's pure Black.... looks like P/N 97465466 nothing else.. Note: This was
the factory one.
 

Attachments

#40 ·
NO question we will benefit from more frequent changes

Opened it, here is mine at just about 14000 miles. And yes I was getting codes 2000 RPM check engine light etc, this was back around November.

Yes and it's pure Black.... looks like P/N 97465466 nothing else.. Note: This was
the factory one.
Well, Like I have already said, I will be doing a change much sooner this time around. I noticed (if not by coincidence), my fuel economy is a bit better on the last fill up. A fluke? We'll see.