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Discussion starter · #241 ·
Worked a bunch of smaller items, cracked open the ECM C2 Connector and added wires for the factory turbo/engine brake controls as described here: https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/7...-useful-articles-product-reviews/542826-how-activate-factory-turbine-brake.html
Also added the second alternator control wire, I had previously just spliced into the brown wire going to the main alternator for this (and may leave it that way) but while I had the connector opened up it was easy to add.
My rear storage for batteries and air system got in the way of where I was routing my tail pipe so I just decided to keep it simple and dump it just forward, this thing is going to be up quite a ways so there isn't any chance of exhaust being trapped under the body and getting in.
Also with Mike's caution (about how the shackle flip pushes the axle forward) I shifted the rear axle back, the Ruff Stuff perches/plates made that pretty easy
 

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Discussion starter · #242 ·
Worked on installing the house battery mount and routing the power/charge cable to the second alternator. Installed the compressor and valve manifold and got a start on air line routing.

Up front I wanted to be able to tune the height/stiffness (based on if I was carrying a load on the front hitch), the springs I have are on the soft-ish side which will be great on rough terrian/roads but when you have a heavily loaded rig at hwy speeds and some wind you want to be able to stiffen it up. I went with P30 Workhorse style in-spring air bags; on the P30 workhorse motorhomes these are a primary load carrying part of the suspension (typically set at 65psi) as the factory springs aren't up to the job, but I won't be using them that way, they will probably spend most of their time with just 5-10psi for normal use, I'll really only air them up when I need the extra stiffness/load leveling.
 

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Your getting there.
 
Discussion starter · #244 ·
I started pulling the high-top apart yesterday...so I'm committed now! Body bolts all came right out and look like they were installed last year rather than 18yrs ago so that was a cheap win.
As soon as I get the old chassis/powertrain out it will go on craigslist and hopefully repower someone's older project.
 
Also added the second alternator control wire, I had previously just spliced into the brown wire going to the main alternator for this (and may leave it that way) but while I had the connector opened up it was easy to add.
Could I get you to provide some detail/pictures on this bit? I also spiced the second alternator into the brown wire but mine keeps throwing a generator control code. This could be because I have them wired together, for the moment, and powering an inverter that runs the roof AC unit. I plan to install a third battery and wire the second alternator to that as a stand alone, putting the second (stock) battery back in the system for the primary alternator, but I'd prefer to have it wired correctly.


Thanks!!



And, nice progress!! You have me kinda looking around for a pickup (LBZ/Allison/4x4) donor for future improvements on the cube!
 
Discussion starter · #246 ·
Could I get you to provide some detail/pictures on this bit? I also spiced the second alternator into the brown wire but mine keeps throwing a generator control code. This could be because I have them wired together, for the moment, and powering an inverter that runs the roof AC unit. I plan to install a third battery and wire the second alternator to that as a stand alone, putting the second (stock) battery back in the system for the primary alternator, but I'd prefer to have it wired correctly.
I didn't take any pictures of wiring but this is the diagram for the second alternator. I simply spliced the two "L" terminals together for now. But I now have a brown/white wire pinned into C2-24 so if it's a problem I'll just connect to that, I haven't had a load on the second alternator so I'll wait and see.

Powering an inverter to power a roof a/c is a hell of a load, I did the same on my FMC motorhome project but I paid up and bought a custom 270amp alternator and use a 4000w inverter to power a 9200btu unit.
 

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Awesome! Thanks for the schematic! I installed a 350 amp 2nd alternator to run a 5500 watt inverter, the AC is a 14500 BTU unit. My calculations tell me all that is plenty to run it but I've read that having an inverter in the system with that kinda load plays hell with the controller.


I wish I was closer to you, I'd love to help you turn some wrenches on that project!
 
Discussion starter · #250 ·
Discussion starter · #251 ·
So I made some progress on the larger engine access opening...not something I'd recommend for a "new to car projects" guy...or...really any guy at all.

This is a PITA and unless you absolutely won't buy a van with either a diesel or big block opening then just stay away from this. I've obviously still have a ways to go but getting this upper forward portion grafted in without removing the cowl vent structure was the most difficult of the project and it had to be done first to get the location for the rest of it right.
 

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Discussion starter · #252 ·
Initially I wanted to try and keep it in one piece, but, after looking at how it is many layers of formed panels there was just now way to to that. I'll be on travel for work the rest of the week so I'll tackle getting the rear section in next weekend. You can really see with this how dramatic the passenger side offset is with the larger cover.
 

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Discussion starter · #255 ·
Made good progress on the rear section of the engine opening flange and floor support. Still a fair amount of work to do tying the floor support section to the body mount structure but it's not as bad as I though. I set the floor skin in place and did another fit check to be sure I've still got it all where it's suppose to be.
 

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Discussion starter · #256 ·
Girlfriend has been House/Cat-sitting for a friend so another guilt free day of work today...body mounts and floor supports all tied into the engine access combing. Still a bit of finish work to do but all the major structural stuff is done on this. This is just tedious work, there are no straight or square reference points, all the metal shapes are contours and all going different directions so you just have to fit and form as you go.
Also sold my old chassis so I picked up 22ft of workspace which was worth more to me than the money from the sale..
 

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Discussion starter · #258 ·
Ran myself down to less than 100psi of shielding gas so welding had to halt, which was fine as I need to get some seam sealer and paint on all of the surfaces before I close it out with the final floor panel. Found a close-ish match for paint (I have some exact paint code on hand for anywhere that will show) that I'll blend the edges with but every bit of this gets covered with carpet, firewall insulation or heat shield so I'm not too concerned wit a perfect match for 97% of it. I think I'm a better welder than seam sealer, but again, this is all covered so as long as its solid and waterproof it's good to go..
 

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A little dish soap on your finger makes spreading seam sealer or any caulking much easier.
 
Discussion starter · #260 ·
A little dish soap on your finger makes spreading seam sealer or any caulking much easier.
There was about 30 seconds where I was like "I'm going to tape all this off and do real clean smooth beads like on my glass shower door"...and then the stupidity of that set in..."after this goes together no one will ever see it again you idiot, quit obsessing over stuff that doesn't matter!"
 
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