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wallyworld

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Was under truck today changing oil(which is a whole other story, the oil won't even drain out there is so much sludge and it hasn't been 1000 miles since last change) saw orange liquid on frame and steering linkage. Looks like water pump to me, wet up by water pump shaft. I have a 97 water pump in box in my shop so tomorrow I get to change out pump. What has to be removed? Looks like upper part of shroud and belt, fan and clutch. Drain radiator. Shouldn't have to take radiator out I hope.
 
The radiator can stay in place.Just remove the upper half of the radiator shroud to give yourself more room to work.Pump removal and installation is fairly straight forward.A couple of the long bolts that pass through the water pump and front cover into the cylinder block require sealer on the threads to prevent external leaks.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
If this is your first 6.5 water pump job. Note the whole plate in the diagram #324 has to come off as the pump is bolted to that from the back.
Thanks for tip, took me awhile to get there but now I see it. The oil filler goes in that plate, just use silicone for a gasket when it goes back together?

Also the power steering pump bracket, its bolted on the very side of water pump, do I have to take that whole bracket off, alternator and PS pump? looks like it.

Why is it radiator drains are never in a spot that liquid will go into pan easily, has to hit,in my case leaf spring, so it goes all over floor instead on in pan:wtf:
Glad I have heated shop today, its only a wood stove but its nice and toasty out there after awhile. Tomorrow should be tee shirt weather in there if I load stove before bed
 
I havent used any sealer on the oil fill tubes on any of my trucks. No leaks 6.2 is the same where the tube pushes into the grommet. The bracket slips over that bolt/stud has to come off so yes ps pump needs to be pushed aside but thats no big deal. I added a hose to my radiator drain at the petcock and drilled a hole through the core support for easy draining. Nice feature to have for sure but radiator has to come out to do it.
 
I'm 2 for 2 replacing just the water pumps and having the seal between the timing cover and block break:wtf::banghead::banghead::banghead: and had to re-doCensored. If the timing cover has been off before and a gasket used instead of just the anarobic sealer, I would risk it. Otherwise the timing cover should come off also. Then as long as you are that far , you might as well replace the timing chain. It's one of those projects that snowballs into a pretty big job. Harmonic balancer and front main seal right there also.
 
Reseal the timing cover, more work but you'll be sorry if you don't. You'll need a harmonic balancer remove and installer and you'll most likely have to remove the rad. Also, buy a new timing chain, reuse your sprockets.
 
Reseal the timing cover, more work but you'll be sorry if you don't. You'll need a harmonic balancer remove and installer and you'll most likely have to remove the rad. Also, buy a new timing chain, reuse your sprockets.
Ds4 pump folks need to retime the motor when timing cover is moved. Why does the seal break when there are other bolts holding the cover on? I have torn them apart but never replaced on a running motor and resealed yet.
 
Ds4 pump folks need to retime the motor when timing cover is moved. Why does the seal break when there are other bolts holding the cover on? I have torn them apart but never replaced on a running motor and resealed yet.
You were very lucky is all.
Gaskets on everything. A timing gasket set will have all the gaskets and a front main seal. Rtv is a leak waiting to happen on the timing covers.
 
Ds4 pump folks need to retime the motor when timing cover is moved. Why does the seal break when there are other bolts holding the cover on? I have torn them apart but never replaced on a running motor and resealed yet.
Sometimes you get lucky. The factory uses Anerobic sealer which doesn't take much to break the seal. The bolts holding the tin cover are down lower so unbolting the water pump can break the seal. This is a common issue on Fords and other engines that the bolts go thru the water pump-timing cover. Again, sometimes you win, sometimes, not so much.
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Reseal the timing cover, more work but you'll be sorry if you don't. You'll need a harmonic balancer remove and installer and you'll most likely have to remove the rad. Also, buy a new timing chain, reuse your sprockets.
Just to change a water pump you should reseal timing cover? That sucks I really don't want to do that. it won't change timing on IP if I take off cover will it? I don't see how but what do I know. How would I get crank bolt out? Some how you would have to jam crank so it can't turn or can I get it off with impact? probably should have let water pump leak:hehe: This isn't much of an engine because the anti freeze has circulated thru it so I'm not changing timing chain unless its ready to break which I doubt. What do you need for a tool to reinstall harmonic balancer.?

I found this kit on amazon, is the crank bolt 16 mm with 2.0 pitch? Thats what this kit has in it
Amazon.com: OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set: Automotive
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Just to change a water pump you should reseal timing cover? That sucks I really don't want to do that. it won't change timing on IP if I take off cover will it? I don't see how but what do I know. How would I get crank bolt out? Some how you would have to jam crank so it can't turn or can I get it off with impact? probably should have let water pump leak:hehe: This isn't much of an engine because the anti freeze has circulated thru it so I'm not changing timing chain unless its ready to break which I doubt. What do you need for a tool to reinstall harmonic balancer.?

I found this kit on amazon, is the crank bolt 16 mm with 2.0 pitch? Thats what this kit has in it
Amazon.com: OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set: Automotive
I think its this set as it has 16 by 1.5
Amazon.com: OTC 6505 Master Harmonic Balancer Installer: Automotive
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Now that I have pump off I see ip bolted to cover, sucks. I can mark ip to cover with chisel. I guess the sequence is take off harmonic balancer before ip so if any moves ip will still be in time with gears. Then take off ip, remove cover, replace gasket, then bolt cover on, then ip, then put harmonic balancer back on. I have gmtd so I can check timing. Way more involved than I thought.
 

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If your not removing the IP or changing the timing chain-which you should, no retime is necessary.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
If your not removing the IP or changing the timing chain-which you should, no retime is necessary.
But I have to unhook the IP from the back of the timing cover, so won't the timing change at least some? Looks like it might be fun getting the timing cover up and out with the IP in there. On my Teds long block the timing cover came off relatively easy as the IP wasn't there.
 
But I have to unhook the IP from the back of the timing cover, so won't the timing change at least some? Looks like it might be fun getting the timing cover up and out with the IP in there. On my Teds long block the timing cover came off relatively easy as the IP wasn't there.

EXACTLY.. Id think twice for opening that new can o worms..
I was going to suggest that you reinstall any bolt(s) that holds the timing chain cover in place that you can be put back in once the bracket(s) are out of the way, do so 'fore you remove the WP w/ cover to lessen the chance of breaking the timing chain cover seal..
And unless its been done before, you shouldn't find a gasket anywhere just beads of anaerobic sealant (GM P/N 1052357) which I suggest you use to reassemble w/o gaskets.. Most of the engines tins and covers are virtually glued in place.

Notice: If the timing chain, timing gears, front cover, crank positioning sensor, crankshaft, or other component(s) affecting timing are replaced, itwill be necessary to reprogram TDCOffset into the PCM.

Whats the mileage?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
EXACTLY.. Id think twice for opening that new can o worms..
I was going to suggest that you reinstall any bolt(s) that holds the timing chain cover in place that you can be put back in once the bracket(s) are out of the way, do so 'fore you remove the WP w/ cover to lessen the chance of breaking the timing chain cover seal..
And unless its been done before, you shouldn't find a gasket anywhere just beads of anaerobic sealant (GM P/N 1052357) which I suggest you use to reassemble w/o gaskets.. Most of the engines tins and covers are virtually glued in place.

Notice: If the timing chain, timing gears, front cover, crank positioning sensor, crankshaft, or other component(s) affecting timing are replaced, itwill be necessary to reprogram TDCOffset into the PCM.

Whats the mileage?
99,000, the motor has idled at least that though. Timing chain isn't going anywhere, only the pump gear has to come off and the pump nuts have to come off. I can do the timing if I have to, I have GMTD so.. I'm more worried about getting cover off and put back together without screwing up IP timing. I'm assuming I can get cover out of there without unhooking all the injector lines?
 
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