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If its lining up the dots is your biggest concern, dont sweat it.
We can guide you through that reassembly process..
I'd be more concerned about opening a larger can o worms...
Yes, you can remove the timing chain cover without loosening the IP lines HOWEVER by disturbing it, you may find a seaper leaker once everythings reassembled so be prepared, you may need to yank the intake too.
I mentioned can o worms...

My motto. If it aint broke, dont fix it..

Good Luck..
 

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But I have to unhook the IP from the back of the timing cover, so won't the timing change at least some? Looks like it might be fun getting the timing cover up and out with the IP in there. On my Teds long block the timing cover came off relatively easy as the IP wasn't there.
Why would you have to touch anything on the IP to change the chain? :think:

As I said earlier, it should be retimed but if your not touching anything, and it starts and runs fine without a SES light, I'd probably not bother.

You will need to unbolt the IP to change the cover gaskets but you don't have to touch any of the hard fuel lines or even the soft ones.
 

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99,000, the motor has idled at least that though. Timing chain isn't going anywhere, only the pump gear has to come off and the pump nuts have to come off. I can do the timing if I have to, I have GMTD so.. I'm more worried about getting cover off and put back together without screwing up IP timing. I'm assuming I can get cover out of there without unhooking all the injector lines?
Ive done it 4 times without removing the IP. It will hang from the high pressure lines . It's not hard to get it back together either.
Anarobic sealer may have been fine for the assembly at the factory. Both parts must be hospital clean of oil and any other contaminants and prepped with a special cleaner. A gasket is a much more fool proof way. You will need all the other gaskets anyhow.
Buying just the timing chain isn't that expensive. Get a Cloyes chain. Other brands could be just about as sloppy as what you have. I believe tolerance spec for chain slop is 5/8-3/4". A Cloyes chain is tight. Others can have 1/2" of slop right out of the box.
CLOYES Part # C181 $48 plus shipping from RA
FEL-PRO Part # TCS45554 Timing gasket set
 

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Discussion Starter #24
In order to get timing cover off you have to screw with the ip, you can't change the timing chain without cover coming off. I appreciate all the help, I'm leery as I screwed up a tdi once changing water pump so.... Also I'd change the chain if I cared about more than a few thousand miles on this motor. Just want it to get thru a few jobs then I can park it for awhile. All this is helping me see what it will be like to get teds motor in.
 

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At 99k, you don't need to worry about that chain.

I'd only do it if you need to take the cover off if you think the seal is broken on the cover.
 

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In order to get timing cover off you have to screw with the ip, you can't change the timing chain without cover coming off. I appreciate all the help, I'm leery as I screwed up a tdi once changing water pump so.... Also I'd change the chain if I cared about more than a few thousand miles on this motor. Just want it to get thru a few jobs then I can park it for awhile. All this is helping me see what it will be like to get teds motor in.
Gotcha and my bad, thinking of another engine, lol. Your right, cover has to come off. :banghead:
 

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Ive done it 4 times without removing the IP. It will hang from the high pressure lines . It's not hard to get it back together either.
Anarobic sealer may have been fine for the assembly at the factory. Both parts must be hospital clean of oil and any other contaminants and prepped with a special cleaner. A gasket is a much more fool proof way. You will need all the other gaskets anyhow.
Buying just the timing chain isn't that expensive. Get a Cloyes chain. Other brands could be just about as sloppy as what you have. I believe tolerance spec for chain slop is 5/8-3/4". A Cloyes chain is tight. Others can have 1/2" of slop right out of the box.
CLOYES Part # C181 $48 plus shipping from RA
FEL-PRO Part # TCS45554 Timing gasket set
Theres a reason why the factory primarily used sealers vs gaskets on practically all external engine "covers," to ensure a leak free seal.
I do agree though what ever sealing method used, , both surfaces must be thoroughly prep'd and cleaned but "special cleaners" are not needed..
Use carburator cleaner or equiv to prep the clean surfaces, it simply removes any oils, grease or other impurities or contaminates that may prevent the sealer from adhering and sealing to the surfaces.
Attention to detail, preparation and cleanliness is key to a leak free assembly, alot more so than gaskets. All Im sayin'
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Got timing cover off, didn't realize I had to pull hub off ip. Good thing I had a puller small enough to get in there. Also didn't realize it was a tapered shaft, when it finally moved it went flying. Cleaned up everything and back together, sort of. Hardest things were front seal, had to find something to drive it in and alternator bracket, couldn't remember how that puppy went back. I did finally. Now I need a clip for lower shroud. Tomorrow I guess. Time for football
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
hmmm, shouldnt need to remove IP hub......
I think you are correct on that, didn't realize the hole in back of cover was big enough to let it thru. It was covered with sludge and junk. On my Teds long block there was a sheet metal plate in there, on my engine there was wasn't. Not sure why that is?
 

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This? Used on military engines.

65tdtimingBaffle01.jpg
 

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The hole is big enough for the IP to be removed without taking off the drive gear, otherwise with the engine in the truck, changing the IP would be a nightmare and very time consuming. :(

I think you are correct on that, didn't realize the hole in back of cover was big enough to let it thru. It was covered with sludge and junk. On my Teds long block there was a sheet metal plate in there, on my engine there was wasn't. Not sure why that is?
To stop shrapnel and bullets, :whistle: :hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #35

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Discussion Starter #36
The hole is big enough for the IP to be removed without taking off the drive gear, otherwise with the engine in the truck, changing the IP would be a nightmare and very time consuming. :(
Yeah I guess I wasted my time there, not sure why I thought it wouldn't come out but it was early on Sunday and only one cup of coffee:think: I did go back out and stick radiator back in between games. Now I'm waiting for harmonic balancer installer to arrive shouldn't take long after that. pray for no leaks and it starts :thumb:
 

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Yeah I guess I wasted my time there, not sure why I thought it wouldn't come out but it was early on Sunday and only one cup of coffee:think: I did go back out and stick radiator back in between games. Now I'm waiting for harmonic balancer installer to arrive shouldn't take long after that. pray for no leaks and it starts :thumb:
Yeah, we all do things we shouldn't do, :banghead: :hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well, got my harmonic balancer tool today. Had to plow first, freakin' snow:HiHi: Got the balancer on, hopefully tight enough. My torque wrench only goes to 150, its about 18 inches long, then I took a 2 ft breaker bar and tightened it some more. Got pulley and fan on, added some anti freeze, turned on key, wait till start(which I didn't expect as I thought if battery was disconnected you wouldn't get it??) fired right up. Shut it off as I didn't have it full of coolant. Pray for no leaks and/or I didn't tighten something up tight enough:clap: I haven't spent that much time on a vehicle in years. It was fun. Think I can do the motor swap but I'll take a few more pictures of how stuff comes apart next time:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Left it outside idling today for 30 minutes maybe 45 minutes but its so freaking cold that not sure Tstat opened. Found one leak on upper hose, spring clamp, repositioned should be ok now. Put upper shroud on. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get her on the road so I know Tstat opens. Man its cold here though.
 
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