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Old 05-14-2014, 08:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
dixiepc
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K5 Tailgate Window Wiring & Intrernals

I need some help finding a wiring diagram for my rear window. I've searched everywhere but I haven't been able to find one. I'm good all the way back till under the the tailgate. A diagram would help me to figure it out.

Thanks

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1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
Diaric
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I haven't seen a diagram, but I'll take a look. What's up with it, I've fixed them a couple times.

I went through a few listed in here couldn't find anything with K5 details. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43&postcount=1

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1987 6.2l Jimmy , being restored,4" lift, 35 mudders 1993 W350 5.9 , custom stretched cab, duelly flatdeck
2001 VW TDI Jetta 4 door loaded 2001 VW TDI Golf 2 door swapped engine project
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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
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Last edited by Diaric; 05-14-2014 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 05-14-2014, 09:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
sportsman7
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defroster (actual glass window) or power lift motor? the glass receives (switched) power and ground through the grid. the power motor I haven't looked into.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
dixiepc
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There are 3 wires coming out from a plug in the firewall, I can't remember the colors right now, but they are 3 wires together in a ribbon. Behind the rear bumper under the tailgate 2 of these wires break out into a 2 wire plug. The third wire, I think that it's red or orange, doesn't go to anything and has what looks like part of a glass fuse holder on the end. Someone put a much later model tailgate on and apparently didn't hook things up correctly.

The best that I can tell there are 3 wires coming out of the tailgate. It looks like 2 of the wires are spliced together then those wires and the other single wire go to the 2 wire plug from above.

I know that this probably doesn't make much sense but if I just had a wiring diagram I could figure it out.

By the way, when you try to roll the window down from the inside you can tell that it is putting a very heavy load on the electrical system. The key switch doesn't seem to do anything.
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1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
Diaric
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It is a heavy load, that's normal. It really draws, or sparks if you jump it.
The plugs are pretty simple and they are special. Mine were rotted and I've never seen replacements.
Going from memory, the two pin connector is positive, up or down, the single is ground.
If the key isn't doing anything, its usually the safety switch. The circuit doesn't complete unless the drivers side latch is closed properly, it completes ground.
I used to sump it with a battery charger, I think I have the polarity right, I've never seen any sort of fuse thing in the wiring.
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1987 6.2l Jimmy , being restored,4" lift, 35 mudders 1993 W350 5.9 , custom stretched cab, duelly flatdeck
2001 VW TDI Jetta 4 door loaded 2001 VW TDI Golf 2 door swapped engine project
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4320diesel View Post
well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkstrong View Post
Diaric wins thread derailment......
Quote:
Originally Posted by High Sierra 2500 View Post
Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
6.2 FAQ's AND ANSWERS Click Here
My Restoration Thread Click Here
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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On my suburban gate there are three wires. Two come from the switch on the dash for up /down and the third is constant power to use the key in the gate. I cant remember the colours right now but mine had breaks inside the insulation for the constant. Its a pain where they run above the tank but I managed some heat shrink butt connectors this past winter to hold me over. I had to replace from right before the tank just to where they enter the gate. The two from the switch that go through the firewall I think are blue and red with a stripe or something. I can look in a little bit here. Your constant power isnt hooked up so that's why nothing with the key.
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81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
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my guess would be shocks
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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Also I would 86 that two wire plug. I dont see any need for it unless you're pulling your tailgate off frequently. Just a weak link in my opinion. That third wire should have a plug connector also not a fuse holder. Someone must have robbed that wire for trailer lighting or something.
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81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 05-15-2014 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
dixiepc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCDiesel View Post
On my suburban gate there are three wires. Two come from the switch on the dash for up /down and the third is constant power to use the key in the gate. I cant remember the colours right now but mine had breaks inside the insulation for the constant. Its a pain where they run above the tank but I managed some heat shrink butt connectors this past winter to hold me over. I had to replace from right before the tank just to where they enter the gate. The two from the switch that go through the firewall I think are blue and red with a stripe or something. I can look in a little bit here. Your constant power isnt hooked up so that's why nothing with the key.

That helps, I'm kind of busy today but if I get a chance I'll look at it.

Thanks
__________________
1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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Here's what mine looks like. Orange/black stripe is constant. Blue and the tan with white stripe are for up down. Good luck.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20140515_094056-1.jpg (86.3 KB, 162 views)
File Type: jpg 20140515_093928-1.jpg (85.1 KB, 138 views)
__________________
81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
dixiepc
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Thanks for the pictures. I haven't had time to do anything with it today, don't know if I'll be able to or not.

__________________
1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.
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