I drove her like this for a few years, not making any changes just fixing the small stuff as needed. My time got extremely busy as we started our house build. Over 2 years, I almost ran myself into the ground and ran the truck pretty hard pulling materials up the mountain form stores and lumber yards in the valley. At some point during the house build (it was a blur, did I mention my wife also got pregnant with our second boy???), I blew a head gasket during a run into the valley for supplies. While I tried to get her to start and ended up with a hydrolocked engine and a torn up flexplate (who knows what else). The plan was to pull the engine and replace head gaskets and flexplate.

That changed when I saw the ad for MaxPF's bad ass 6.2L build. I had been following the guys build on CK5 and thedieselpage. I made an offer that was my budget for getting my truck back on the road and he accepted. I definitely got a steal.

 

It is a well seasoned crack free 660 block.

NOS 6.5 crank - machined to fit 6.2 two piece seal block

 

From the engine builder

The bottom end is pretty basic except for the girdle and the ARP studs. The aluminum oil pan was needed to clear the girdle, nothing more. As Mike mentioned, the crank is a new old stock 6.5 one piece seal crank that I machined to fit the 2 piece block. Main bearings are Clevite and rod bearings are Sealed Power. Cam bearings are also Sealed Power. Pistons are .75mm over Mahle, and the cylinders are plateau honed as is common for modern engines. The gear drive is a Pete Jackson unit that I bought from Jegs. It is the EXACT same one you get from the 6.2 retailers except for a much lower price Lifters are also brand new Sealed Power units. The only thing I reused in this engine was the camshaft and IP gears, because these parts practically never wear out.

Pics!

 

 

The heads are where the fun really starts :bounce: :thumb:. Again from MaxPF:

I will try to answer some questions about certain aspects of the heads and valvetrain. First, the valves are stock 6.2 J code size. They look larger because the 45 degree reliefs around the valves have been opened up. This does two things: it unshrouds the valves at low lift, and it increases chamber volume. As a result of the latter this engine has an 18:1 compression ratio with stock height pistons. The common method of dropping the piston .030" in the hole to get 18:1 leaves you with less "squish" and slower moving air in the cylinder. My method increases low lift valve flow and maintains the high cylinder turbulence of a stock compression engine (at least, that's the theory).

The valve springs are comp cams. They give 109# seat pressure (vs 80# for stock springs) to reduce the chance of valve float in case of an accidental overspeed (i.e. missed shift). The retainers and keepers are also Comp, and are 10 degree performance type. In order to maximize valve life both intake and exhaust are fitted with rotators. Since the stock 6.2 rotators fit smaller springs I had to use big block rotators. Their diameter and height required machining of the spring pockets and stems.

I was unhappy with the induction hardened seats and rather loose guides in the heads, so I replaced both with superior aftermarket pieces. The guides are sintered iron with spiral oil retaining grooves inside, and are topped with teflon positive seals. The intake seats are hardened steel, while the exhausts are a high temp nickel alloy designed for use with the stellite faced exhaust valves. The valves themselves are made by SI, and are their HD replacements for J code 6.2's. It should be noted that the use of seat inserts in the exhaust side will positively prevent the formation of a crack between the exhaust and intake valves. This crack is caused by the high operating temp of the integral induction hardened seat (which is brittle and crack prone) while being pounded incessantly by the valve. IH had the exact same problem with their prototype 6.9's, and they solved it by using seat inserts.

The rocker arms are Comp Cams magnum roller rockers. They are 1,7:1 ratio big block units. I removed the trunnions in them so I could mount them on shafts. The shafts themselves are made from ground O1 tool steel hardened to 60-62Rc. This hardness is needed so the needle bearings don't brinell the shaft and eventually destroy it. The shaft pedestals are made from 1018 that has been carburized (case hardened) to 60-62Rc for wear resistance (the rockers can rub on the sides of them). They have caps aligned to the bodies with 1/8" dowel pins, and each body/cap pair is numbered and fitted as a pair, similar to rods and their caps. They are mounted to the head using special studs that have 1/2-13 threads on one end and 3/8-24 threads on the other. The studs are machined from 17-4 stainless steel and precipitation hardened to give a strength of 200ksi (for comparison, standard ARP fasteners are 160-170ksi). They are retained with thin walled ARP 12 point nuts. I even had to machine down a socket to fit in the tight well - a standard socket has walls that are too thick. Besides holding the shafts, the mounts also offset them toward the intake side of the heads. This is necessary because the distance between the fulcrum and roller tip is greater with these 1.7 rockers vs. the stock 1.5 rockers. The pushrods are new Sealed Power stock length 6.2 pushrods. Pushrod geometry is identical to a stock engine since the roller tip to rocker ball distance on the big block is nearly identical to the diesel.

Since these rockers are higher ratio the valves gain more lift. Valve lift on a stock 6.2 is .420". With the 1.7 rockers it increases to .476. Piston to valve clearance was checked and, while VERY close, it is better than the specs for the International 6.9. The 6.9 gives an exhaust-to-piston vlearance of only .009"! This is WAY too close IMO, and thankfully the advance built into the 6.2 cams gives around .030". The intake is much tighter, but it can be since the piston is retreating from the valve. Exhaust clearance is much more critical in any engine because the piston is approaching a retreating valve, and any valve float risks a collision. This doesn't happen with the intake valve. BTW, as a point of comparison gassers, especially race motors, try to have at least .100" clearance between the exhaust valve and piston at their closest approach. This is because valve float and lifter pump-up is much more likely with a high revving gas engine.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hv21DJwi_uU&list=UUVoYJb9rHRD2ydN233IZ8eg

 

That is how the engine was shipped to me.

I added the J code intake, a freshly built 4911 IP, stock rebuilt 6.2L injectors, a Fluidampr balancer, a banks turbo kit, 4" DE exhaust, Leroy's oil cooler setup, a racor fuel filter and heater, a dmax fan, and a hd fan clutch, '93 serp belt setup with AC delete and HO water pump, diy4x motor mounts, and a electric fuel pump (used facet).

 

I am trying to install 6.5 into my 88 square crew cab 4x4. Is there a reason you went with the diy4x engine mounts? I am having a tough time getting it to bolt into my frame with 350 mounts is why I ask. I have a build thread here if you would like to check it out.

 

A few more pics:

 

It took me about 5 years to get it in running shape. Remember, i was building a house and I am a wrenching newb. The newb part is not totally true, as I have been turning wrenches since I was a teenager, I was just never very experienced. I could do oil and brakes, but had never been past an intake or helping a friend with a clutch. I finished up (at least drivable) literally the day we were evacuating from this (taken from my deck):

This is how my wife drove her about 50 miles to our evac location (I towed the travel trailer with baby burb):

I continued to get it buttoned up. Tried to drive her for hunting season and the tired th400 started to go. By the end of the season, she wouldn't get over 40 mph she slipped so hard in 3rd. During this time, my wife actually drove her more than idea and gave her the name of "the beast" while I gently took her 2005 Suburban (baby burb) on hunting trips.

She now is just a short day or 2 away from having a NV4500. Here is that thread: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63.../forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/653666-decided-go-nv4500.html

 

Future plans are many and money is short. Plan on making this my "forever" truck. Need to learn to weld (coming soon)!!!Here are the big ones

Engine:

-bigger & better turbo
-high pop 6.5 injectors
-ata intercooler
-new radiator ditching built in oil and trans coolers
-intake mods
- AC working

Drive train:

- 1 tons with selectable air lockers
- crossover steering
- 37" tires
- 4.88 gears
- skid plates
- boxed frame & crossmembers
- shackle flip & greasable shackles (ditching blocks)
- shocks
- air bags

Body:

- Paint (dark green roll-on bedliner???)
- rock sliders with steps
- front winch bumper
- rear bumper with tire carrier
- roof rack
- some sort tow mirrors
- lights!
- bushwacker cut-out fender flares
- new wind shield

Inside:

- diy4x dash
- guages
- seats from newer chevy
- carpet
- stereo

 

Here is a few videos after I got her running and before the th400 totally gave up the ghost:

 

You have no idea how big a smile it put on my face to see your thread here! :bounce: I was following MaxPF's build years ago on CK5, when I was still driving my 87 C30 6.2. I nearly short circuited my keyboard with drool during that time. :HiHi: What an amazing engine! While I've seen some amazing build here, I've never seen that amount of love put into any 6.2/6.5 since. Its nice to see it resting under the hood of such a fine looking Burb. :thumb:
I look forward to seeing what you do for it, in the way of an improved turbo. What are you thinking about? Holset?
I would love to see some of these pics in the performance section. Thats where I spend most of my time, as I've been running a build of my own, but nothing as amazing as this. I sure am glad I decided to visit the builds section today. Once again, thanks for the smile!

Matt

 

When they started the build section, I was asked to put my build up. I just have not had the time. I am glad you found it, MaxPF put together a pretty awesome build and I got lucky. I just can't wait to get it going again.

As far as turbos go, I am not sure. The more I read the more I find I do not understand. I will definitely post up a thread in the performance section when the time comes. I want something that is quick spooling since I am running a NV4500. I also want the ability to run my pump out of fuel, so I can set the waste gate and be good.

Yeah, I spend most my time in the performance section too. Before the build section came along, I was going post a build over there.

 

SWEEEEEEET!!!!! love the truck. nice vids! if I could have my heads done like that I would be soooo happy.....

 

Awesome build on the motor! That setup is beastly.

Sounds like an hx35/hx40 hyrbrid turbo is just what you need. Good luck getting it finished

 

Any progress? I've been eagerly awaiting an update. :thumb:

Matt

 

opcorn:

 

Awesome thread Mikey, its good to see those pics again.

I guess I need to sit down and do mine. :hole:

 

It has been a little bit and I have put some miles on this thing. I have been down to the valley a few times (100+ miles round trip) and took her into the back country to get to a backpacking trail head. She is running pretty good, with a few hiccups. She is loud and I need to get the shift boots installed, hoping to help with the noise. The clutch rattle in neutral is annoying too.

I still feel I need to get deeper gears than my current 4.10s. We have a nice long steep grade right out of town. She does great in 4th gear. I am able to accelerate up to around 70 mph and pass others no problem on the steepest parts. EGT's stay around 1000 when pushing hard in 4th going down quick when I get off it. Pretty sure I need more turbo. I get smoke until it builds boost, which it does fast. I can easily pin my banks turbo at 15 lbs (as high as my gauge goes). Not sure if that is good for it as most report only 10-12 max on this turbo.

When I drop to 5th, I can hold my speed but not accelerate on hills. I haze pretty good and egts start to climb. On flat ground, I can acclerate but I still get a good haze in 5th. EGT's are fine on flat ground. She can build boost, but nothing like in 4th. 5th also feels too high. I could easily run 85+. I like cruising at 70.

I get a nice puff of smoke when shifting 2-3 if I am not careful. Sometimes annoying, sometimes fun. Is that just going to be life with a db2?

When I took her backpacking, I had a coolent leak. I discovered a crack in the upper area of my overflow, hoping that is the issue. We we pushing a logging road pretty hard 3000' over around 8 miles. I have not been able to recreate. My gauge did not go over the 215 I usually see and I could not get the hood open (more on both below). There was a massive windstorm a week before we went. We had to cross several downed trees and wheel around others that were too big to cross. 1st gear and low 4x4 is fun and almost unstoppable (I need lockers!).

She still heats up and goes down (195-215) pretty much constantly. I am going to put the correct thermostat in today. I also do not hear my fan clutch ever kicking on. It is new and I put it on with the dmax fan. I think I am going to pull it and try the fan clutch mod to get it to engage sooner (or at all). Could my coolant reservoir crack be my leak issue? Guessing it is not my heating up issue. Any other ideas? Hoping the t-stat and fan clutch takes care of it.

I got a new hood to replace my bent up one. It is used and strait. Problem is I am unsure how to adjust it to open correctly. After I pull the hood latch, it does not always pop-up. I have to hit it with my fists several times to get it to pop. :confuzeld

I have a few other things to fix up. My turbo oil return hose is leaking at a fitting. I took down the head liner, probably going to wait until I get going on the interior. I needs a stereo and the seat belts suck! It is fun to drive!

 

Bought a new toy today. Can you say bumpers and sliders!

I had to drive 6 hours round trip to get it, 4 of those hours on I5 (boring, straight, hot, fast). The beast did great. She is fast and had no issues. Fun as heck to drive, especially in 4th. Mash the pedal, spool the turbo, and go! Steering is a little sloppy. AC is going to be needed.

Last week I was pulling some sand (about 12K with the trailer) for our hog walking arena. When loaded, I noticed my steering wheel was slightly turned to the right (usually straight). She also pulled pretty hard to the left under braking. Tongue weight an issue? What would cause this?

 

subbed, doing just about the same thing with mine only my 6.2 is coming out of an m1010 ambulance.

 

would a manafold and turbo from a 6.5 fit on a 6.2?