What is the 4x4 adapter. I am looking to do this mod soon. Good write up. Thanks for the info.

 

Its the adapter gm put on 6.5 4x4 trucks to angle the filter horizontally toward the front of the engine. There wasn't enogh room for it to hang straight down because of the front drive shaft.

 

Well done and well documented

I added a link for this thread to the DIY section of the FAQ's.

 

I've always wanted to do this, looks great! Such a pain to change the filter in these trucks without spilling oil everywhere. At least it keeps the front U-joints lubed up. :HiHi:

 

I've always wanted to do this, looks great! Such a pain to change the filter in these trucks without spilling oil everywhere. At least it keeps the front U-joints lubed up. :HiHi:

Now I wont dread changing the oil any more, definitely worth it.:bounce:

 

How much did this run you?

 

Right at $200.00 for parts, not including filters and extra oil. The AN fittings and stainless hose was the most expensive parts. You could save a little by only ordering a 6' section of hose and save a little, but I wanted the extra for another project.

 

What is the red wire in the blue loom?

 

Trans. temp probe wire.

 

Looks just like mine except you have the cool stainless lines! NICE!!

 

Very nice indeed. I don't have a 4x4, but I might think about doing this to my pickup (C series). Just to get under the thing, I have to park it on top of a board to lift it 3". Plus, the extra filtration is better...and I suppose, if I get the type filter base with a temp probe hole, I can monitor the engine oil temp too.

Where did you mount your filters? I can't tell from the pic? Is it inside or outside of the frame rail? Under the cab?

 

Very nice indeed. I don't have a 4x4, but I might think about doing this to my pickup (C series). Just to get under the thing, I have to park it on top of a board to lift it 3". Plus, the extra filtration is better...and I suppose, if I get the type filter base with a temp probe hole, I can monitor the engine oil temp too.

Where did you mount your filters? I can't tell from the pic? Is it inside or outside of the frame rail? Under the cab?

Its right under the cab, inside the frame rail, basically right beneath your feet. If your doing this on a C series, its a lot easier to run your lines.

 

I get very nervous about having things under the truck without skid plates. I've caught OEM stuff and done damage just driving through fields. I left the OEM filter as is, added a bypass filter by the drivers side battery, On the fender well in the 94 and 98 and off the battery box on the Tahoe. Off the corner of the engine on the 96. I return to the oil fill neck.

I install a T in the return line from the engine oil cooler to feed the bypass filters. Right down by the bottom of the transmission

 

Its pretty much protected by the frame rail and the T-bar.

 

Hey Diesel Mike, how did you tighten those all-threads that go into the Dual Oil Filter Adapter?
There's a very small section of knurling, so there wasn't much space to grab it and tighten it. I didn't want to risk damaging the threads.

I hand-tightened it, and it won't stop leaking.

Also, I used oil-rated teflon tape on the threads, but some buddies at work said I should not have done that & it's contributing to the leak. What's your suggestion?

 

Are you talking about the adapter that screws onto where the oil filter went, or the dual filter housing itself? Another question is what kind of lines are you using, and do they have swivel ends on them?

 

Hand tightening anything that has oil pressure is not the best thing you could do.
Drop the 4x4 shaft to get more room to wiggle your wrench in.

 

I usually use either Kopr Kote or nickle antiseize on the thread of AN fittings and most other fittings as well.

 

Hey mike, i keep forgetting to ask... where did you get the adapter fitting you put on the oil filter adapter?

 

I believe i got it from summit racing.

 

I was able to rid the 4x4 adapter with the

Just have to [carefully] remove the 13/16 filter adapter out of the GM 4x4 adapter (the threads the filter actually screws onto) and it goes into block where the banjo originally was. Don't use an adjustable crescent wrench, don't even use an open end or box end wrench. Use a 15/16 deep socket, preferably 6 point and it'll come out without any damage or cursing. The banjo to remove the 4x4 adapter was a 1 & 3/8" IIRC. This needs to be a short socket, or you'll have to remove the front driveshaft...if you haven't already.

And yes, clearance of the front drive shaft is TIGHT. The brass elbows that you see, what I'm calling a "flat faced 90* elbow", I would have much prefered in steel, or ideally a stainless steel, but short of ordering some raw material and making them from scratch, brass was all I could find with the 'flat face' form factor I required. I will be keeping close tabs on their condition over the next several months with their vicinity to exhaust manifold/crossover pipe.

Those push lock hoses I was just using to make mock ups, everything is stainless braid teflon with stainless crimp JIC swivels :HiHi:

 

I was able to rid the 4x4 adapter with the Derale 15747

Just have to [carefully] remove the 13/16 filter adapter out of the GM 4x4 adapter (the threads the filter actually screws onto) and it goes into block where the banjo originally was. Don't use an adjustable crescent wrench, don't even use an open end or box end wrench. Use a 15/16 deep socket, preferably 6 point and it'll come out without any damage or cursing. The banjo to remove the 4x4 adapter was a 1 & 3/8" IIRC. This needs to be a short socket, or you'll have to remove the front driveshaft...if you haven't already.

And yes, clearance of the front drive shaft is TIGHT. The brass elbows that you see, what I'm calling a "flat faced 90* elbow", I would have much prefered in steel, or ideally a stainless steel, but short of ordering some raw material and making them from scratch, brass was all I could find with the 'flat face' form factor I required. I will be keeping close tabs on their condition over the next several months with their vicinity to exhaust manifold/crossover pipe.

Those push lock hoses I was just using to make mock ups, everything is stainless braid teflon with stainless crimp JIC swivels :HiHi:

Nice work! :clap: I was not comfortable with the close tolerances to the driveshaft on mine, so i scraped the idea. I was afraid of losing a u joint and taking out the lines, which would cost an engine.

 

My determination to use 5/8" oil cooler lines is what lead to me shedding the 4x4 adapter. Those 'flat face elbow's' are what made it possible for my setup. Still hunting for them in a carbon or stainless steel though. Brass next to exhaust makes me weary.

U joint's known for falling apart like that? I've never had one break on me, but I don't do any off roading. I turn on my 4x4 every oil change for mile or 2 just to keep everything 'wet' but have never had to depend on it to get me through or out of rough terrain.

 

U joint's known for falling apart like that? I've never had one break on me, but I don't do any off roading. I turn on my 4x4 every oil change for mile or 2 just to keep everything 'wet' but have never had to depend on it to get me through or out of rough terrain.

I have had one fail before when trying to pull my livestock trailer out of a muddy field with a load of cattle. If you are not using your 4wd much, then the chances are pretty slim that you would chuck one.:thumb:

 

Reading this again after being referenced in another thread and seeing I never came back with my completed set up!

This configuration is hard to photograph, but I simply oriented the JIC fittings on engine adapter towards the relocated dual filter mount. Put a pair of 45* elbows on end of filter mount and aimed their direction accordingly.

One thing I would change, or do differently is I would want the filter mount further away so I could have longer hoses to allow for more flex. The engine moves, and the new filter mount on frame does not move with it obviously. These hoses have as much 'slack' and the vicinity of the two fixed points will allow, but are still pretty rigid once the swivels are tightened all the way 'stretching' the hose assembly.
One of these hoses shearing would be equally as catastrophic as oil cooler line rupture if not faster to the engine.

Kinda embarrassed that I overlooked that factor when planning all this out and executing. However I did have the epiphany all on my own (it just dawned me it wasn't something pointed out by someone else) if that redeems me any Merit lol

Dual filter mount is a derale, dont remember part number off hand but it was just the standard one.
Filters are Wix 51515
I did have my own version of Amsoil EaBP bypass configuration there at the other end where you see the brass plugs. That add on however is back in R&D [emoji16]

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Good job on the nice clean install. Good idea on allowing for flex with the hoses also.

 

Read my thread "I might be done". I had the same basic setup. When I took the oil filter adapter off (10 years ago), I needed an impact gun. When I went to take it off (because one of my hoses hit the crossover and burned through) it came off easily with a 1/2 inch ratchet. I think over the years it got loose and rotated so the hose hit the crossover pipe..

 

Had I intentionally provisioned the flex needed between filter mount and engine, I would have made it further away and had longer hoses.

Even though I overlooked it, the flex that IS present seems to be sufficient. I'm pretty sure I was more determined to make the mount clear the front drive terrain with use of that alum 2x4 that's in between frame and filter mount. Which required a lot of patience to make work.

Forgot to mention, this setup has been 2 yrs 30k miles problem free with only issue being the O-ring on 4x4 adapter to engine needing to be replaced cause the one derale supplied flattened.
The kit is for smaller sized filters and there is a plate to use the bigger size we use. When it was first staying so wet I was suspect it was the middle o-ring that was the culprit. My welder happened to be around that day so I had him do me the favor. Welding those 2 together is absolutely not necessary, the issue was where plate mated with engine.

Few more pics now that I got creeper for better views. Went ahead and put some protect-o-wrap on hoses too for a pinch more protection.

But now you can see the 'straight shot' I was able to route hoses [emoji16]

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Like those hoses.

 

Here's my parts list and some details to my configuration:


Derale 15747 Engine Spin-On Adapter
(2) 1/2" NPT 'flat faced' street elbow The 'flat faced' clearance of these elbows is CRUCIAL to be able to put two of them so close together.
(2) 1/2" MNPT > 1/2" MJIC (example)
^^these all go on the engine side of things^^

I had made mock-up hoses with cheap bulk hose and push to connect fittings until I had my lengths dialed in perfect. Very small margin of error (~1/8"?) for being to short or to long for a botched fit & finish. Took my mocks to my local hydraulic shop to replicate with the ultra premium materials: teflon lined stainless steel braid w/ stainless JIC swivel fittings (the SS fittings where over $20/ea, carbon steel fittings should be <$5/ea & this is x4, so definitely the easiest detail to save a few bucks on. The SS fittings where and are totally unnecessary, I have a problem. OK? )

On the other end of your hoses:
Derale 25707 Dual Remote Filter Mount Kit
Depending where on your frame you decide to mount this you'll either need another pair of straight MNPT>MJIC fittings (as mentioned in list above) or 45* (which is what I have because I was able to route a straight shot)
I also used an aluminum 2x4 (true dimensions, not like lumber) that was laying around from another project. It seemed the easiest way to get the filter mount on the inside of front drive shaft where I wanted it. The frame is still closed box where I have this 2x4, just beyond it where it opens to C channel the lift pump occupies the open channel pretty much all the way to transmission cross member. I wanted to keep my hose route as short and simplistic as possible. Hindsight I would have relocated lift pump further towards rear and put this dual oil filter mount in its place. When lift pump comes due for replacement, its going to be moved to make way for filter mount. Whether or not I ever move the filter mount remains to be seen. That would require me getting new hoses made, which would make it one expensive aesthetic improvement...that's under the damn truck! lol Would bring some peace of mind too though, allowing more flex between engine and filter mount.

Tip: if using the Derale 15747, you can rotate the position of the insert 6 positions so you can get the plate tight against block with the in/out ports oriented in any direction you want them. This was a major detail that allowed this project to come together the way it did.
Example: NPT pipes/fittings, you can pretty much get them tight and pointed where you want them, and still beyond that get another full rotation (provided enough leverage) will no ill effects (provided your using all steel fittings and pipes, steel fittings into aluminum DOES have a breaking point, this is just a hypothetical example though). However, something like an oil filter, or ORB fitting, once the O-ring or gasket makes contact against surface it's to seal to, you only have so much rotation left (maybe 1/2 rotation) before you damage O-ring or tear gasket.
This Derale 15747 that uses an insert depending on the application you can trial and error what position to install that insert so you get a tight snug fit right when you want to so the in/out ports for oil are in correct position per ANY application.
Note, the supplied O-rings that comes with the Derale 15747 suck, thats why mine is welded together. Pull the gasket off the OEM spec'd filter that you removed to put this plate on, and it should fit right into the grove of the Derale plate. No need to weld, this is cast aluminum anyway, and should not be welded at all, it was a risk even trying.
Another note: this filter mount yields 3/4x16 filter thread, which is NOT the thread of the OEM filter. OE filter is 13/16x16 filter thread. Something to keep in mind. I run with (two) Wix 51515 which increased my total sump to 8qts exactly (which I was aiming for too, purely for convenience)

Hope these details help someone! :thumb:

 

Nice & clean install.
Though, having the filters facing the road unprotected always makes me nervous.

On my "old blue", I relocated the 2 filters in the engine bay, close the A/C compressor:

 

Gday all, is anyone able to tell me what the measurements of the seal pad is on the oil pump where the filter spins on, inside edge and outside edge. Im putting a remote filter in for my p400 6.5 and the engineer says he needs the measurement to make sure the seals of the remote fitting will contact the seal surface of the pump. Any help would be awesome

 

All those info is available on the filter website.
For example:
EXTRA GUARD Spin-on Oil Filter PH3600 | FRAM

Note that unit is in US Inches.

As far as the filter head, there is really no pump in there.
It has a bypass orifice means that a portion of the oil will get filtered twice.
Usually, a seller will state what kind of filter can fit.
In the US, they usually use Fram model no. as a reference.
Unless, the head mfg is also a filter mfg, then they use their own filter model no.