Since everyone is talking about replacing glow plugs, what steps are involved, testing GPs, etc; I thought I would take a few pics today while I replaced mine.
While it hasn't gotten too cold here in N Texas it has been in the upper 20s a few times, and colder weather is coming. I have been having some starting problems, well, at least to me they are problems. The truck always starts, it just doesn't do it quick. I sometimes have to crank for about 5 seconds before it starts, and I know it will work better than that with the right parts. So first step is new glow plugs.
I had no documentation as to when or if they had ever been changed in the past, so i ordered 8 Duraterms from RA for $59 shipped. (Use the coupon code found on this site)
All the GPs came out very easy and they were all AC Delco 9Gs.
Here is the DS:
Dead easy to do. I do have the wires off the terminals as I was about to check voltage to them.
The PS is a little more difficult, but not by any means hard to do. You can save yourself lots of time by just jacking it up, removing the wheel/tire, and removing the inner fender. This takes an extra ~20 minutes to do, but will save you time in the long run of trying to wrestle sockets, extensions, U-joints down to the glowplugs on this side.
Here is what you see with the inner fender off:
Three of the four on this side are very easy to do now. The third back is hidden behind my Diamond Eye down pipe. Again, I had the wires off to check voltage.
Here are some more shots:
The first two from the front of the engine:
The rearmost one:
To get at the third one back not much needs to be done except to remove the clamp from the DP and slide the DP outboard to gain access. I didn't touch the flange under the truck, only the clamp. Then I moved it about 4 inches outboard and that gave me all the room I needed. I got this:
Easy!
I used moly kote on all the GPs before I installed them and also tested them with a DMM and battery/jumper cables prior to intallation.
All my old and new GPs showed good on the DMM.....~1.5 ohms.
This is a typical Duraterm being tested after about 10 seconds:
Supprisingly, this is a typical removed 9G being tested, although they took about 15 seconds to look like this:
So, I might have replaced 8 good glow plugs, with 8 new glow plugs, but at least that is done and I can move onto other things to help my truck start better like batteries, starter, etc. I'll make a thread on that too, i'm sure
Overall, this is a very easy job that most anyone can do in their driveway.
Tools List:
10mm deep socket (GPs)
13mm and 14mm socket for inner fender bolts
various extensions and ratchets ( i used a 6" and 2" extension with 3/8" drive ratchet)
Needle nose pliars (for removing terminal plugs)
DMM
Jumper cables
Whatever YOUR truck needs to get the inner fender off. I have an S&B CAI, so that requires some other things I won't mention here, use common sense.
Jack and jackstand.
Good Luck!
While it hasn't gotten too cold here in N Texas it has been in the upper 20s a few times, and colder weather is coming. I have been having some starting problems, well, at least to me they are problems. The truck always starts, it just doesn't do it quick. I sometimes have to crank for about 5 seconds before it starts, and I know it will work better than that with the right parts. So first step is new glow plugs.
I had no documentation as to when or if they had ever been changed in the past, so i ordered 8 Duraterms from RA for $59 shipped. (Use the coupon code found on this site)
All the GPs came out very easy and they were all AC Delco 9Gs.
Here is the DS:
Dead easy to do. I do have the wires off the terminals as I was about to check voltage to them.
The PS is a little more difficult, but not by any means hard to do. You can save yourself lots of time by just jacking it up, removing the wheel/tire, and removing the inner fender. This takes an extra ~20 minutes to do, but will save you time in the long run of trying to wrestle sockets, extensions, U-joints down to the glowplugs on this side.
Here is what you see with the inner fender off:
Three of the four on this side are very easy to do now. The third back is hidden behind my Diamond Eye down pipe. Again, I had the wires off to check voltage.
Here are some more shots:
The first two from the front of the engine:
The rearmost one:
To get at the third one back not much needs to be done except to remove the clamp from the DP and slide the DP outboard to gain access. I didn't touch the flange under the truck, only the clamp. Then I moved it about 4 inches outboard and that gave me all the room I needed. I got this:
Easy!
I used moly kote on all the GPs before I installed them and also tested them with a DMM and battery/jumper cables prior to intallation.
All my old and new GPs showed good on the DMM.....~1.5 ohms.
This is a typical Duraterm being tested after about 10 seconds:
Supprisingly, this is a typical removed 9G being tested, although they took about 15 seconds to look like this:
So, I might have replaced 8 good glow plugs, with 8 new glow plugs, but at least that is done and I can move onto other things to help my truck start better like batteries, starter, etc. I'll make a thread on that too, i'm sure
Overall, this is a very easy job that most anyone can do in their driveway.
Tools List:
10mm deep socket (GPs)
13mm and 14mm socket for inner fender bolts
various extensions and ratchets ( i used a 6" and 2" extension with 3/8" drive ratchet)
Needle nose pliars (for removing terminal plugs)
DMM
Jumper cables
Whatever YOUR truck needs to get the inner fender off. I have an S&B CAI, so that requires some other things I won't mention here, use common sense.
Jack and jackstand.
Good Luck!