It's not too bad to do...
1. remove the 4 bolts holding the exhaust 90 remove that
2. remove the bolts holding the exhaust turbine housing (use a good penatrating oil on them or heat, they also can only come out so far and then you have to start seperating the housing for them to clear... I used a plastic dead blow hammer to tap it apart just make sure it doesn't **** on there or it will hit the exhaust turbine and leave marks on it.)
3. remove the intake half of the turbine housing (that ones easy)
4. Remove the intake turbine from the shaft. The threads are left hand threads and you can put a wrench on the exhaust side it is part of the shaft (exhaust side doesn't come off it's part of the shaft) The turbine will pull right off after the nut is off.
5. tap the shaft out the back with a rubber or soft faced mallet once it starts moving it goes easy.
6, now the fun part... there are a few screws holding the seal plate in. They are easy to reove just make sure you use the right sized torx bit and when you put the bit in tap it a few times pretty firmly to break the locktite so they will turn. After you get the screws out use a spanner wrench and turn the plate while pulling outward it will come off.
7. the next plate (thrust plate) is a little tougher. the screws holding that one in are very soft and strip out the torx part easy. make sure you have a good fit with your torx bit and once again tap on it firmly to break the locktite hold and be careful not to strip them out. once you get them out you just pull out the thrust plate and you are down to the journal bearings.
8. pull the intake side journal bearing out, then turn over to the exhaust side and remove the snap ring holding the journal in and remove that one.
9. Clean very well and reverse order to reasemble...
10. There is a sealing ring right in front of the exhaust turbine, and the two rings on the intake side.
Depending on what kit you buy some come with a little more parts than others. I've done quite a few of these now and once you get into it, it is pretty much self explainitory...
All threads are right handed except for the intake turbine nut.
On reassembly I always put a small drop of removable locktite on the threads of the thrust plate screws and the seal plate screws.
If you have any other questions or need help just ask I'll try my best to help.
Also if anyone in here has better ways (or corrections) to do any of the steps please speak up... I'm always looking for better ways to do anything...

P.S. I hope this is helpful.. I've been meaning to sit down someday and write up a full step by step but have been to busy to do it. When I did my first one nobody would help me at all not even the slightest (didn't belong here yet). So I just took my time and luckily didn't do to bad on my first one. I've heard of people since I did my first one that stripped out the intake side nut on the shaft and stripped the screws on the thrust plate.
Good luck and take your time and lay out the parts in order if you need and after this one you will be a pro at them...

 

It's not too bad to do...
1. remove the 4 bolts holding the exhaust 90 remove that
2. remove the bolts holding the exhaust turbine housing (use a good penatrating oil on them or heat, they also can only come out so far and then you have to start seperating the housing for them to clear... I used a plastic dead blow hammer to tap it apart just make sure it doesn't **** on there or it will hit the exhaust turbine and leave marks on it.)
3. remove the intake half of the turbine housing (that ones easy)
4. Remove the intake turbine from the shaft. The threads are left hand threads and you can put a wrench on the exhaust side it is part of the shaft (exhaust side doesn't come off it's part of the shaft) The turbine will pull right off after the nut is off.
5. tap the shaft out the back with a rubber or soft faced mallet once it starts moving it goes easy.
6, now the fun part... there are a few screws holding the seal plate in. They are easy to reove just make sure you use the right sized torx bit and when you put the bit in tap it a few times pretty firmly to break the locktite so they will turn. After you get the screws out use a spanner wrench and turn the plate while pulling outward it will come off.
7. the next plate (thrust plate) is a little tougher. the screws holding that one in are very soft and strip out the torx part easy. make sure you have a good fit with your torx bit and once again tap on it firmly to break the locktite hold and be careful not to strip them out. once you get them out you just pull out the thrust plate and you are down to the journal bearings.
8. pull the intake side journal bearing out, then turn over to the exhaust side and remove the snap ring holding the journal in and remove that one.
9. Clean very well and reverse order to reasemble...
10. There is a sealing ring right in front of the exhaust turbine, and the two rings on the intake side.
Depending on what kit you buy some come with a little more parts than others. I've done quite a few of these now and once you get into it, it is pretty much self explainitory...
All threads are right handed except for the intake turbine nut.
On reassembly I always put a small drop of removable locktite on the threads of the thrust plate screws and the seal plate screws.
If you have any other questions or need help just ask I'll try my best to help.
Also if anyone in here has better ways (or corrections) to do any of the steps please speak up... I'm always looking for better ways to do anything...

P.S. I hope this is helpful.. I've been meaning to sit down someday and write up a full step by step but have been to busy to do it. When I did my first one nobody would help me at all not even the slightest (didn't belong here yet). So I just took my time and luckily didn't do to bad on my first one. I've heard of people since I did my first one that stripped out the intake side nut on the shaft and stripped the screws on the thrust plate.
Good luck and take your time and lay out the parts in order if you need and after this one you will be a pro at them...

Hi
thanks for the list of instructions,I got to the plate with the 3 screw I removed them but I didn’t know how to remove the plate . So I have a idea now it’s step 6 with the spanner I have to do but I am not sure if this is right if you have any info about this I would appreciate it
if get the plate and get the rest done I will post pictures and a video as well
plus this is a post from some time ago any body got a good place to get the right seal kit because the bearin that I got out was a true bearing ,I don’t know if that’s called a Journal bearing but again thanks again for all your work and help and help me a lot

 

Please take pictures when you do this. They would be great to have in an archive.

 

Thanks! I got down to the seal plate on my own and needed help for the rest

This will help with the rest. Like I mentioned rebuild kits are easy to find but what about other parts? Anybody have a line on those?

 

i did mine when i just needed seale so the the kit was all i needed. $114. my cost for that.i did not find it that hard and i wish i would have had a camara.

 

I have one apart right now I'll try to get out and take pictures of it and step by step it. Hopefully this weekend if work allows...

 

Still looking for a turbo parts, specifically vanes, supplier!

 

BTT. Tried Pinnensular - no go.

 

turbocity or gpopshop should be able to supply parts.

 

a local turbo shop used a larger phillips self tapping wood screw, they threaded one into each side of the seal plate and then pried up on the screws and the plate came right out, if yours is really stuck try that trick

 

Thank You for posting these instructions. Very helpful. One question though, is there torque specs for the plate screws and for the compressor shaft nut ?
Thank You in advance
MrMarty51

 

Here is the torque specs thread:

GMX Turbo bolt torque specifications needed

Does anyone have access to a torque table that has the torque ratings of the turbocharger fasteners? The ones I need are related directly to a GM8 turbocharger that I tore apart for cleaning purposes before deploying it. I'm looking for the torque (either in in./lbs or ft./lbs) for the large...

www.dieselplace.com

 

Got the turbo totally dismantled without breaking a bolt or a screw. Had to heat the cast iron around four of the bolts to get them to move, then, let it cool for a while and give them a shot of Seafoam deep creep. Got the rest of them out after it got cool enough to handle.
Thank You to the guy that posted about tapping the torx head screws to get them to move. It worked like a charm. Reading the post about the self tapping screws to remove the center bearing flange, i tapped the holes with a no.8 tap and run in a screw on each one then was able to pry out the center mount with a couple of pry bars.
Got things all cleaned up and went into the five gallon bucket of carb cleaner to get the most stubborn of the carbon.
As much oil as was inside of this turbo, I believe it was getting real close to having a run away.
I am thinking of going to the wrecking yard tomorrow and seeing about getting a throttle body the same size as the turbo pipe, incorporating that between the turbo and the engine for a run away engine safety shut down. Hook it up just like it is a throttle except for have a cable rigged to hold it open and another to pull it shut. 🤷‍♂️😹

 

Usually when the turbine wheel and compressor wheel are damaged the best solution is to buy a center cartridge assembly... Parts to rebuild one will exceed the cost of the cartridge.

 

The turbo components has suffered no damages. Just wanting to kit it so I dont have a runaway sometime.
260,000 + miles and the turbo was loaded with oil. I think I caught this thing just in the nick of time. LOL
Still looking for the torque specs for them small screws and the shaft nut. LOL
I did send John Faddis a message but they are closed down until the 27th. I hope He dont wait until then to reply, I`m needing the truck before then.

 

This rebuild thread offers a little more info:

GM8 Turbo rebuild kit.

So on my $1000 beater I tore into it a bit due to it not running. not saying this was part of the problem but it was not good. The stock turbo when spun by finger would only keep spinning about 1/2" and had about 1/4" play up and down. Also a audible grinding could be hear when spinning by hand...

www.dieselplace.com

 

A couple of screen shots from the Autel Maxi AP200 Reader and app.