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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
So on my $1000 beater I tore into it a bit due to it not running. not saying this was part of the problem but it was not good. The stock turbo when spun by finger would only keep spinning about 1/2" and had about 1/4" play up and down. Also a audible grinding could be hear when spinning by hand.

Granted I have a lot of issues with this truck trying to pin point why it wont idle or run to one thing at this point seemed ridiculous, so I just started with the basics. Air fuel ignition. Ive cleaned up the intake and pulled the turbo. After finding a rebuild/service kit for the turbo for about $120 on rockauto I decided to order it and start pulling turbo apart. Ive google and searched the site for info but All i found on the site was a cheap $50 chinese kit a guy asked about and on google a blurrry picture post on some other site, If I wanted clear pictures Id have to sign up and I did not feel like subbing to another forum.

So the kit is in the mail and I started to tear down this old turbo. First and formost getting the 4 studs off from the DP was really hard due to rust and age of it. Almost seems like it was never done since stock except for some tell signs once I got into it. I will explain in a bit.

Some shots pre tear down.

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cleaned up the housing a bit. painted after sanding out some scuffs and dings. this is purely for looks

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The housing was leaking and output soot and oil. here is a shot of how dirty it is. also a bunch of oil spatter all over the engine and fenders. no shot of that.

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taking off the nut for the compressor it in theory should come off nice and easy. Not the case with mine After soaking for a few days i really had to tap on the turbine stud with hammer to get any movement. a light pry and more tapping finally got it off in about 1 hour time

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also note the two allen head bolts, there are two holes in this part. they don't go all the way through and my rebuild kit is suppose to have a new part in it. Again this disk though I dont know the name for it, the two holes that didnt have torq screws in it are not threaded and not right through the part. I had to cut some threads in them and put these bolts in just to get it removed. in a half decent turbo this part should not be so hard to remove.

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once the disk is out this is what you will see. remove the torx bolts. T10 I beleve. they maybe had 10 in' lbs on them.

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also note the high temp silicon in the oil passage here. I beleve this turbo at one point was taken apart and high temp orange silicon was used to try and seal up some oil leaks. which is why I had trouble taking it apart,

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not sure if this is normal to have silicon on these parts. Will make some calls or take any input from members about this but I think this is one of the quik fix on my truck which seems on par with other problems i been having. Its honestly 120$ kit to rebuild turbo or worst case 340 for a new cartridge

once the brass part is removed this is what you will see. from right to left the parts will come out leaving a final snap ring in the hole. dont remove the snap ring.

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Now flip it over to the turbine side or the exhaust side.

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There will be a snap ring first, My pliers were too small so I used a flathead screwdriver. Again I Think the kit come with new ones so not worried about damage.

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cleaned up a bit shows snap ring.

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believe these are the journal bearings, Hell im a welder right...

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To get them out I had modified a pair of tweezers. heres is a shot.

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just bent about 1/8" out on each side.

once they are pulled out again a snap ring is on the inside, just leave it.


So with that all apart I soaked it in brake clean and in general just cleaned it inside a and outside. Ocd me will likely paint it once truck is running with a high temp paint. Im still waiting on the rebuild kit to put it back together. I took some other steps that many might not agree with but here are the shots.

scraped the oil return gasket off. very stuck on.

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cleaned it up some. also ported the casting a bit to take out a really rough edge. amounts to jack crap im sure. but while in rome.

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i own a lathe and well some carbon build up....

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also fighting some bolts and studs

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and just some cleaning

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Hopefully my Kit shows up in a day or two and I can put it back together with some pictures also.

Also if anyone has any input on the high temp silicone I dont think it should be in there but am really not sure, if you cant tell. I just dove into this. lol hope this can help some people anyways.
 

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Good pics. Thanks
 

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Whistle Pigs Are Cool
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I excellent write up! Thanks! I have wondered doing this myself.
 

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NO RTV is allowed anywhere near a turbo, period, end of story.

Is the compressor wheel damaged?

Did you mark the compressor wheel with the shaft so it goes back the same way? They are balanced as a set.

Nice job in cleaning it up, also make sure there is no carbon on the turbine shaft seal area.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited by Moderator)
Parts came in!

Ok, so my rebuild kit came in, put the kid down for a nap and got to work.

Here it is in all its glory

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So we will start on the exhaust side as its simple enough. I used some engine assembly grease on these. They simply will slid in till they rest on the snap rings we left in from tear down. the kit comes with 4 snap rings, replace if you want but I didnt see a need to replace the inner rings just the outer.

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ps- I stick my finger in some pictures to help the camera focus. it has a hard time with shinny surfaces.

Next we flip the unit over. lube up the other journal bearing and drop it in

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Now place the (Thrust collar?) on top of the bearing, no snap ring on this side.

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Now the Thrust plate goes on, only one way to get it on. Some say use loc tite on these screws. I dont have torque specs but they were finger tight on removal.

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Now we need to assemble the thrust bearing (?) the kit forgot an o-ring so I had to remove one from the old part. once both are on we push this in the back side of the end cap. I was able to do it just with my hands.

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Front side

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Apply some hi temp silicone around the rim. Try not to get any in the oil passage. I went a bit heavy, my bad.

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Line up the long oil passage slots and slide into position. before pushing all the way down look in the screw holes and try to get it lined up as best as can.

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Put the screws back in. **** The kit came with new allen key style and they were pretty small. I opted to reuse the T20 from factory. Just my preffrence**** wipe away the silicon after its tight. Again I lack a spec.

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Next I had to remove the o ring here. I used a small file to clean up some carbon build up and installed the new ring.

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kit claimed to come with a new heat shield but it did not. I cleaned up the old one and reused it.

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Lubed up the shaft and slide it in.

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Slide the wheel on and re install the nut. I had some damage on the end of my shaft and no dies to cut left hand threads. I tried to track some down locally but could not. I ended up putting my shaft back into the lathe and cutting some threads back. This likely was m own fault from hitting it with a hammer handle to hard during removal.

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Be sure to put this nut on the right way. one side has a machined face to be true and flat the other is just rounded.

Tighten up the nut using a 10mm wrench and 13mm socket on the rear. after it was snug I spun it a bit to check for grinding, using a hammer handle tapping on the back side to make sure the rings slide in nice and tighten the 10mm some more. repeat this until no more gains are made. test spin again for grinding.

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I still have to clean up threads and get old studs out of the housing. Also got the deer in the headlight looks at the part store asking for the gaskets. I will update later tonight when I have the complete unit back together.:coolnana:
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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Excellent post sir. I uploaded all the images which made them fit the page better. Now they wont overwhelm browsers and your text. This should go in the FAQs when its complete.

Someone PM myself or Freddyack if it slips past us.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will have to keep that in mind for pictures. I just use my phone and upload to imgur then use the bbcode link for simplicity. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
NO RTV is allowed anywhere near a turbo, period, end of story.

Is the compressor wheel damaged?

Did you mark the compressor wheel with the shaft so it goes back the same way? They are balanced as a set.

Nice job in cleaning it up, also make sure there is no carbon on the turbine shaft seal area.
Sorry I missed this. So you will see I did put high temp silicon back on, from what I could dig up it came from factory that way. Any other post I had found on other forums all indicated they also did this. I just made sure not to get it inside of the turbo.

I should add a part about marking it, I did but did not document it. There was no damage to the wheel. I was more worried about the shaft. Having the lathe was a big advantage for cleaning up the carbon build up but it could be done by hand.

I was hoping to get the rest done tonight but my extractor broke off in a bolt and my welder crapped out or something. I just called it a night. Tomorrow when I wont upset the neighborhood I should be able to use my truck welder to get the last two bolts out.
 

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Super Moderator Eco-Logistical
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I plan to do this on my spare GM8... this spring is going to be my play time I think...

I'm planning to order a steel crank, pistons, heads, etc and go through my spare 6.5 to install in the firebird.

stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Part 3 - All buttoned up

Well I could not be more lucky to have had such problems for a FAQ post. So my screw extractor broke off inside. I could fight to drill the hardened steel tool at this point, eat through a bunch of bits ect. But... Imma welder. I tacked a oversize nut on and promptly threw it in the snow.

This is called dimensional upset if you wanted to know. Basic theory is all metals will expand with heat and shrink well cooled in = amounts in = direction. But since the bolt in this case cant expand larger than the hole it is in the expansion will be greater in the length of the bolt. Then when cooled it still will shrink = in all directions making the bolt a bit longer and smaller around. This also can be used to make a shim thinner for example by clamping it in a vise, heat and cool. Anyways...






Next up I ran a tap through all the holes to clean out rust in the threads. This might not be so bad for some people but mine was really bad.



Once that was done with I grabbed some cleaning tools. I only have a small compressor so I use a drill on high speed. I could use my electric die grinder but I fell it spins too fast for the avg joe to control with some of these bits, and a drill is more accessible



apparently I forgot to take pictures once my boss showed up. sorry.



So after all the thread cutting and cleaning with the abrasives we need to get all the metal and debris out. Using my small compressor and a small bit of fuel line to blow all the housing out.



Now its time to join the cartridge to the housing.



Small learning curve but two bolts became a issue, I had to take this apart several times to learn, but as you lower the cartridge on you have to also thread these in using the back of your hand to hold it up. I also used a punch to mark out the orientation before tear down to get it roughly lined up.



Missing some hardware in the kit, used 1 old one. Use it in a spot where you can get a closed end of a wrench on.




Once all 5 are finger tight you have to tighten them down equally skipping one each time. Id turn till it got about 1/16" down then move, went around 3 times. Do this to avoid binding the turbine fins on the housing. I also had very excessive carbon build up where my fins are that I had to clean out. I believe this was due to the truck being ran without the wastegate vac lines connected.

Next put on the compressor housing. pretty straight forward. Once its mounted if you need to adjust it its not too bad to get at the bolts.



And lastly the wastegate is connected. I believe mine to be warped so I used some high temp around it. This part is up to you but be sure not to get it inside at all. Mine will be sitting for a few weeks yet so It will be well cured before I run it.



There are some parts missed but In all this is not a hard task to do. It was my first and I found little info on it after hours of searching prompting a write up. It can definitely be intimidating but once into it not bad. I also feel mine was a worst case on multiple fronts. I definitely will be doing this once in a while to avoid some of the issues I had. For the $120 its not bad vs a new turbo due to bearings going out.
 

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I'm pretty late to the party..... but what did you do about a gasket for the compressor housing?
 
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