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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was reading the thread about buying a no start truck, and I thought I would share my experience from this morning.


I just came back from looking at a 95 2500 6.5 diesel extended cab with 220,000 miles on the truck, and 100,000 on the engine. The guy only wanted $2500, and he said it had a new engine installed at the dealer in '99. I brought my compression tester, and some hand tools to make sure the engine was not junk. The guy told me that his wife was driving it 2 years ago and that the truck just died while going down the road.

I would have guessed that the PMD was bad givin the information he offered. I figured that if the truck had compression I would buy it, and replace the PMD. The owner said he had bought new batterys 2 years ago but that they would not take a charge now. I brought my nearly new batterys out of my truck to do the comp test. I cranked the 6.5 over and it wouldn't turn very fast, or start but it had sat idle for the last 2 years so I figured it had lots of compression.

I pull the fenderwell on the pass side and pulled all of the glow plugs. The first cylinder 100# 2nd 400#, 3rd 170#, 4th 390#, 5th 40#, 6th 200#, 7th, and 8th I didn't check. How can someone just lie to your face and tell you that the engine was running fine. He told me the dealer said the PMD was all the truck would need to be roadworthy.

I was thinking about just picking up my tools, and leaving the truck apart for the owner to bolt back together, but I replace all the plugs, fenderwell, and wheel.

I'm sure he will tell the next guy the same bull he told me.
 

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it's always a case of caveat emptor. Ed
 

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I can relate to that. I looked at a no start 6.5 dually before i bought mine. It was a '98 for $2300, they claimed it ran fine and just died one day and wouldn't start. Also like about i thought PMD, i took 2 new batteries, WD-40, compression tester and 5 gallons of fresh diesel. Attached the batteries, gave it a few squirts of WD in the turbo inlet and tried it. Of course it just turned over, did nothing. I cracked a couple of injector lines, i had fuel dripping when turning it over - thought humm interesting. I took the glow plugs out, tried the compression. I did 7 cylinders, most between 250 and 350 PSI. While i had the glow plugs out, i liberally gave it some WD-40 then re-installed them. Gave it a shot, it started ran a little rough smoked like crazy BUT the bottom end knocked like you wouldn't believe. Rods and/or mains. Guy said "it's never done that before, you messed it up spraying WD-40 in it - now you have to buy it". HAHAHAHA. Oh bulls**t was my answer, and i walked away from that one. Don't you just hate liars!!!! He had to know it knocked like a b*tch.
Later on i found the one i have now, guy claimed the tranny was slipping and that he parked it about 9 months earlier. I took my 2 fresh batteries, did the same as above. Compression wasn't as erratic as the first one, but in the 330-380 range until i gave it the WD-40. Then it had about 400 psi on all cylinders. I popped the glows back in, gave it a try and after cranking on/off for what seemed forever it finally sputtered to life. Smoked like crazy for about 2-4 minutes then smoothed out and stopped smoking. I took it for a test drive around his block, ran ok and didn't slip like he said. Bought it for less than $1400, 3500 extended cab dually with very good paint but boy it was nasty. Ran a yard-service and i don't think owned a vac. lol Anyway, on the drive home yup the tranny wouldn't stay in 4th like he said, but it worked fine in 3rd all the way home. I replaced the tranny 1-2 and 3-4 solinoids and it worked fine for about 8 months then started leaking out the front seal. I'm still pretty happy with it, but the first liar p*ssed me off. The second guy was truthfull about the truck. Shows you get all kinds when dealing with used cars/trucks.

Don
 

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Did you say anything to this guy . I have a habit of saying what i think no matter what.
 

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It's possible he was really dumb and didn't know what running good should have sounded like? :crazy:
 

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I've got a '49 Dodge straight 6 in a 1 1/2 or 2 ton that was supposed to run (if any interest in the truck let me know I'll make you one heck of a deal.) Cranked fine no noise but no start. pulled plugs and found 4 of 6 pistons were up at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No, I didn't say anything except that his engine was junk. Then when I was leaving his mother came out and asked if I wanted to buy the truck even though the engine was junk? I told her that I drove a long way to find out it had a junk engine. She told me that her (35 year old) son didn't know the engine was bad.

I said to her I could see maybe 1 cylinder being a little low on compression but to have 4 of the 6 I checked being bad was a waste of my time. He was just trying to pass off his junk to someone else. Why would this guy let someone come and do a comp check on an engine that he knew was not any good?

One thing I did do was take a photo of the passenger side of the block to see if it is the new improved design since it was installed in 1999.
 

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If the truck is publicly advertised and your compression numbers are fact you should let everybody know where the truck is advertised. It may help prevent somebody else some headache.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The truck is on the Bay Area craigslist, but the truck is located in Discovery Bay out in the Sacremento Delta. I have asked for a vin check to see if the dealer installed the engine back in '99 like I was told. I found out that I should have taken a photo of the drivers side of the block. Oh well I will know where to look next time.
 

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You can't get good compression from an engine that has been sitting this long. You need to crank it first just blow out the accumulated rust, carbon, and dirt from under the valve seats. Then you can run a compression test. Once you had the plugs out the thing to do would have been squirt a lot of oil into each cylinder and spin it over. Spin the engine with the lines broke at the injectors. Once your satisfied fuel is getting to the injectors tighten all the lines and reinstall the GPs. Now crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The second cylinder was 400# and it went down from there. I cranked the engine for at least 2 minutes while checking the comp and the last readings were getting lower. The cranking speed was not the greatest but it should have been enough to build up the comp needed to fire off.
 

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The one i looked at with the rod knock was about a year ago, in Atlanta. I did pretty much what dieselPro said, except used WD-40. Engines that sit for an extended time usually don't have much compression until you spin them over some and oil them down. Then you have a chance at starting it, and that's a maybe/maybe not thing. I've messed with old cars/trucks for 30 years, bought several "non-running" but never gave much for one of those. Your buying someone else's problems they gave up on, who knows what they did to the thing. :eek:
Don
 

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Are you sure that it was a rod knock? The rubber in the harmonic balancer can rot or the crank pulley can break and they make a loud knocking noise when they bo bad.
 

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Yup, when i pulled the glows I had a look at the pulley and balancer, they appeared to have been replaced somewhat recently along with the belt and lower radiator hose. Seeing the lower radiator hose looked pretty new made me think it had been ran too hot. I drove about 120 miles to look at it and took my wife to have another driver in case i did buy it. Not a happy camper when it knocked in the bottom end. I've heard rods knock before, 99% sure that's what it was.
Don
 
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