[msteph15]

I am replacing my factory y-bridge and I'm having a problem with the last bolt. It is the back-top passenger side bolt. There is about a 1/4" clearance between the bolt head and the turbo compressor housing, and that is not going to be enough to slide the bolt out (I had to modify wrench just to get it loose). The y-bridge is loose and ready to come out. I could cut the head off, but I foresee the same problem when I try to get the new one in. I would really like to avoid moving the turbo; I can't even see all the mounting bolts for it and after removing the passenger side up pipe, I would like to avoid removing the driver's side up-pipe if possible. If that's the only way, then I would need some advice on the best way to loosen the turbo. I only need to move it back about a 1/2" to get clearance. I have not found a good video on this particular part of the job. Most guys are doing this on an LBZ and there seems to be a lot more clearance between this bolt and the turbo housing. I found a couple videos on the LMM y-bridge replacement, but everybody glosses over this part of the swap. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thanks.

 

[msteph15]

Update: I ended up loosening the 3 mounting bolts on the base of the turbo and could move it just enough to get the last bolt out. I already had the downpipe and passenger side up-pipe removed at the time, but did not loosen the drivers side up pipe or oil lines to the turbo. Those two bolts on the passenger side of the turbo were a pain. I used a 12" wobble extension (3/8 drive - 1/2 would not fit into the space) to get to them. I still have not actually seen the bolts, I did it all blind (as the compressor hose/firewall are in the way). I did not remove the bolts on the passengers side, I just loosened them as much as possible and kept them threaded. Man, that y-bridge was caked with soot after 163k mi. Probably 1/8" of soot all the way around.

 

[Motofixxer]

Older post but this may come up in a search so I'll put a link to an updated tips and suggestions thread.

The turbo has to be moved a bit.
The soot is likely from a leaking PCV Tee, they will crack or just leak.

Link to Tips and suggestions working on/near Y Bridge or EGR cooler

Info: - Y Bridge and EGR parts info

If you're in the area I suggest replacing a few parts that are buried including fuel return hoses. An updated compilation post on the parts and suggestions if you're working on or near the area I learned a few things- Ybridge Needs 1/4” dr flexible extension Like #GM6070 Oreillys works best...

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