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Witch lift pump

5712 Views 67 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  SmokeShow
I have been reading all night on lift pumps and Im wondering witch one to get. I have jioned the wont start with out priming club and Im looking for the best way to fix the trouble.
TTS pump is around 500 and Kennedy is 800. besides price witch set up is the easyest to install and why should I pay 800 and not 500?
thanks Earl
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Extra filter is for piece of mind. It has been proven the stock filter isn't the best. Lots of reading on that.

I'm only running 1 Kennedy put and am in the range of HP your talking. No bursting, etc...
wagspe208;1568850; said:
I'm leaning toward the kennedy wiring harness...sweet, well thought out setup. I think this is the main attraction.
Pump question is...why spend 190 on an edelbrock..isn't a kennedy single the same price? I could see it if the edelbrock was 100 or so.
The edelbrock IS a flow through design?
Wags

John,
BTW, when will the wiring harnesses be back in stock?
How do yo tap into a power source? Do you tap into the fuse block underhood? Do you go directly to the battery with an inline fuse?
Please do tell.
We pull power from the underhood fuse box and a simple fuse tap attached to an ignition switched fuse. We also pull B+ from the stud in the same electrical center under the shroud. Then there is a simple chassis ground. All other connectors are sealed and we do not tap or splice any wires. There is a red led that indicates the circuit is energized and a push button to manually activate the pump(s) if necessary. The circuit energizes a prime cycle at key up and if there is no oil psi shuts down. Both pumps runn full time. We plumb a supplied oil psi safety switch to a port on teh filter housing. This keeps us totally independent of the OE wiring system.

As for availability, I'm sorry to say late Feb. is the ETA. We did not forcast the demand and ended up having to change suppliers at the last minute. In the mean time people have been stringing a single wire from the afformentioned fuse tap.
cbm;1569161; said:
Another one of my dumb questions...............by why would the extra filter be needed when the truck already has a fuel filter ????


What is the general consensus for what's needed to supply 400-450 hp ? Would a single with no additional filter be fine ??

Like mentioned in other posts here, the added filter is for peace of mind. There has been history of fuel related injector issues with the Dmax.

Additionally, if you run a metallic gear type or vane type of pump, it will genetrate wear particles that should be filtered out. A Filtermag is also a good idea for pulling out ferrous material. My pumps do not generate particles as they are non contact.
do you know if the fass pumps generate particles or not??
racinmike77;1571633; said:
do you know if the fass pumps generate particles or not??
No, they only seem to generate bubbles in the tank.
racinmike77;1571633; said:
do you know if the fass pumps generate particles or not??

If it has gears, rotors, or vanes then yes plan and simple. If the gears are steel then a Filtermag will do wonders for grabbing the junk and sticking it to the walls of the filter. I run one on mine and I don't generate particles, but the delivery pumps etc still do...
Kennedy;1571381; said:
We pull power from the underhood fuse box and a simple fuse tap attached to an ignition switched fuse. We also pull B+ from the stud in the same electrical center under the shroud. Then there is a simple chassis ground. All other connectors are sealed and we do not tap or splice any wires. There is a red led that indicates the circuit is energized and a push button to manually activate the pump(s) if necessary. The circuit energizes a prime cycle at key up and if there is no oil psi shuts down. Both pumps runn full time. We plumb a supplied oil psi safety switch to a port on teh filter housing. This keeps us totally independent of the OE wiring system.

As for availability, I'm sorry to say late Feb. is the ETA. We did not forcast the demand and ended up having to change suppliers at the last minute. In the mean time people have been stringing a single wire from the afformentioned fuse tap.
The Kennedy pump & wiring harness is a nice setup...
It is well designed and well executed.
Are these pumps any good? They seem to "fit the bill" nicely and comparable to the Edelbrock 1792 as far as pumping abilities. Main concern is longevity. It says it made to run "full time" so I would think it should have ability to last a while.






Aeromotive SS Series Street Rod Electric Fuel Pump.

A27-11203


For carbureted powerplants making 200-750 HP with standard regulators and up to 1,000 HP with dynamic, bypass style regulators. Ideal for coninuous duty, carbureted applications where more line pressure, flow volume and reliability are desired.

Ideal for your daily driver, street rod or demanding ET-bracket race car. On the street or at the track, you expect durability and reliability, along with consistant high performance. The Street / Strip (SS) Fuel Pump delivers high fuel flow at optimal line pressure. This pump is designed to be used with either a Bypass Regulator; P/N 13301 or one of our Carburetor Adjustable Regulators; P/N 13201 or 13205.




Fuel flow exceeds 900 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts -more than 150 gallons per hour.
Pump provides 18-20 PSI fuel pressure (I'm aware that this is high but hoping running it through a filter will bring it down enough to not mess with things) - perfect for high-G leaving cars.
Pumping mechanism features our proprietary composite rotor, stainless steel vanes, and precious ground, heat-treated steel plates.
3/8" NPT ports facilitate easy installation. (not to keen on this detail though since the factory lines are larger)
Alcohol compatible.
Ideal for dedicated nitrous fuel delivery.
Low amperage draw.



Let me know your thoughts.


Thanks
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