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Witch lift pump

5706 Views 67 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  SmokeShow
I have been reading all night on lift pumps and Im wondering witch one to get. I have jioned the wont start with out priming club and Im looking for the best way to fix the trouble.
TTS pump is around 500 and Kennedy is 800. besides price witch set up is the easyest to install and why should I pay 800 and not 500?
thanks Earl
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I have my pumps broken down into individuals, complete kits, and complete kits with filter assemblies. The price you mentioned was pump/filter combo. My complete kits cover pickup, mounting, etc. I have built custom heads for mine from billet aluminum and anodized them with all stainless hardware. They join together with through bolts and seal with a single oring rather than pipe threads. I could have used the mfr's bronze heads, but wanted something better, neater, cleaner. Once you hold them in your hands you will see why they cost a little more...
SmokeShow;1562746; said:
Any chance at a group buy John? :D

I'm sorry, but I just can't do that. It would undermine my working relationship with my dealers. These pumps as well as my KD big bore billet are available through:

Guy at SoCal

MikeL at Inglewood

Eric at Merchant

among others...
I have dyno tested 470RWHP (I believe that is where we were at the time) in the presence of Forced Induction (Jason) and Victory Red (Rick) both with and without my lift pump setup on. Same truck, same day, same dyno, same power. It is my belief that adding a good lift supply simply eliminates air in the system, reduces strain on the OE pump, and makes the production of HP more consistent.

Hose gets stretched to go over any hose barb and I have yet to see a good high quality hose fail due to being stretched over either the OE line bump rings or my Billet Pickup.
turBeau;1565404; said:
Wouldn't this pump work on our trucks?

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GM PART # 25115899
GM LIST: $130.62
OUR PRICE: $67.92


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[/URL]DESCRIPTION: Electric Fuel Pump, High Output heavy duty 12 volt electric rotary pump. Flows 72gph at 6-9 psi.

It won't last and when it quits, you'll know it because you are walking home or plumbing around it.
turBeau;1565518; said:
Could you give some valid reasons why it wouldn't last other than saying it won't?
Personal experience and the experience of others. Eric (Dmaxallitech) had this pump on and Xmas eve a couple of years back it went down. He had to call Mrs to bail him out IIRC.

When dealing with the fuel system, you can build adequate (or what you THINK is adequate) or you can do it all and be done with it. Adequate may get you by in most situations, but doing all that you can removes any question when the going gets tough...
turBeau;1565563; said:
That makes sense. But if your ~400 rwhp wouldn't this be a suitable upgrade? I'm not going for 650 rwhp or I'd get one of your kits.

What kind of power was Eric making when he had the pump and how long did it run?
It's not so much about how big a pump you run, it's about building a reliable, failsafe system that can provide well more than needed under normal circumstances so that if irregular circumstances arise you (hopefully) still have enough. Also keep in mind that we also offer the pumps separately which is what you get from the parts store stuff.
wagspe208;1568850; said:
I'm leaning toward the kennedy wiring harness...sweet, well thought out setup. I think this is the main attraction.
Pump question is...why spend 190 on an edelbrock..isn't a kennedy single the same price? I could see it if the edelbrock was 100 or so.
The edelbrock IS a flow through design?

BTW, when will the wiring harnesses be back in stock?
How do yo tap into a power source? Do you tap into the fuse block underhood? Do you go directly to the battery with an inline fuse?
Please do tell.
We pull power from the underhood fuse box and a simple fuse tap attached to an ignition switched fuse. We also pull B+ from the stud in the same electrical center under the shroud. Then there is a simple chassis ground. All other connectors are sealed and we do not tap or splice any wires. There is a red led that indicates the circuit is energized and a push button to manually activate the pump(s) if necessary. The circuit energizes a prime cycle at key up and if there is no oil psi shuts down. Both pumps runn full time. We plumb a supplied oil psi safety switch to a port on teh filter housing. This keeps us totally independent of the OE wiring system.

As for availability, I'm sorry to say late Feb. is the ETA. We did not forcast the demand and ended up having to change suppliers at the last minute. In the mean time people have been stringing a single wire from the afformentioned fuse tap.
cbm;1569161; said:
Another one of my dumb questions...............by why would the extra filter be needed when the truck already has a fuel filter ????

What is the general consensus for what's needed to supply 400-450 hp ? Would a single with no additional filter be fine ??

Like mentioned in other posts here, the added filter is for peace of mind. There has been history of fuel related injector issues with the Dmax.

Additionally, if you run a metallic gear type or vane type of pump, it will genetrate wear particles that should be filtered out. A Filtermag is also a good idea for pulling out ferrous material. My pumps do not generate particles as they are non contact.
racinmike77;1571633; said:
do you know if the fass pumps generate particles or not??

If it has gears, rotors, or vanes then yes plan and simple. If the gears are steel then a Filtermag will do wonders for grabbing the junk and sticking it to the walls of the filter. I run one on mine and I don't generate particles, but the delivery pumps etc still do...
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