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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know where I can find a wire if one exists?? Max Power??:D

I need to rewire my Nexus gauges. The engine draws so much power when cranking (I think the sub zero temps have taken their toll on the crap Delco batteries; its been cranking slower lately) that it sometimes screws up my Nexus gauges if I crank the engine while they are in the startup sequence. They are fine if I crank the engine immediatly, and it starts before the gauges have a chance to start, but the downside of doing that is I cant wait for the glow plugs to heat up... Soooo Im wondering if theres a wire SOMEWHERE thats only hot with the ignition on, engine RUNNING. Maybe the crank signal present wire?? I dunno... any ideas guys??? Thanks...

--Ben
 

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You could wire a relay, feeding source power from the current feed (ignition on) but connect to the normally CLOSED contacts and wire the coil of the relay to the CEL.
Any time the CEL is on, the relay would be open, meaning that it will not close until the engine cranks and the CEL clears.

Hmm... only drawback is you'd lose gauges if you get a CEL while running. Hmm... maybe tie in to the ABS, or even the parking brake light?
Parking brake is probably a safe bet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my CEL is on all the time cause of the BD turbo... :)

im working on fixing it with EFIlive tho
 

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THere's some empty fuse spots in the fuse panel inside the driver's door jam box. I used one to power my LED dash lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the problem with those are that they are HOT when the ignition is ON, engine not running. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
any ECM wires that are hot only when the engine is running? Im looking right now...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what is IGNITION 3??

also could I tap into the "charge signal" wire on the alternator?
 

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how about like you do with the lift pumps use the sigal there with a relay
does that make sense
rob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah...it makes sense but I dont know how TTS ties in their lift pumps??

ahh with how complicated these trucks are there HAS to be at least one wire thats only hot when a crank signal is present!!! Its what prevents you from grinding the starter gear when the engine's already running! (turn your key to start with the engine running, it wont make any horrible noise) With the Tech 2 theres even a "engine running/crank signal present" display...so there must be some sensor or wire that carries the signal...
 

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it works off on the oil senser john kenny has a harness that you could use so no oil pressure no power. the crank signal i woud think is a ground signal and i would be afraid to tap that one it's such a low signal the gauge could confuse it i think your safest way would be the oil pressure or maybe some new batteries
 

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Ben Why are you doing this , no one has had a gauge drain their battery that I have seen, Seems like you have other issues that are in need of being addressed , if the gauges are draining your batteries. #1 look at battery replacement, if they are dying out now they will leave ya stranded somewhere else, sounds like you have a ground wire draining your batteries. #2 check all connections ,ALL of them from new to old. #3 REPEAT THE FIRST TWO !!!!!!!! no reason for your gauges to drain a system . lly,s have a fast glow system too , dont make sense. Unless Im missing something . That is what I would do!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
no its not that the gauges are draining the batteries.

the Nexus gauges have a special startup sequence that cant be interrupted. When they are in the middle of their startup sequence, and I crank the engine, the starter draws so much power that it messes up the gauges and they dont work right until I cycle the key again...
 

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I/C now I can understand , what ya need is a dead start for them then turn on at run!! on edit why not run them to a switch
 

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Discussion Starter #15
HAHA you guys arent going to beleive this.

So my trucks been cranking slowly lately, and the batteries arent strong enoguh to keep the Nexus gauges powerd thru their startup sequence while cranking the engine at the same time. I thoght my batteries were crapping out. So I take it to the local Monroe muffler place and have them load test it, and the load tester keeps giving an error...hmmmm...

so as the guy is unclipping load tester alligator clamp from the negative battery terminal, the wire literally FALLS right off the "-" post of the battery. DUHHHH!!! When I was installing the turbo I forgot to tighten one of the negative battery terminals, so for the past week or so in these sub zero temps, the engine has been cranking and starting on ONE battery! Dont give me too hard a time tho...I probably forgot because ive never disconnected the battery when wiring/installing anything else before. :eek::

So I tightend it and everything works fine now and the engine jumps to life...:duh:
 

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Yupper!Its the little things in life that make it so intresting.
 

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Glad everything worked out for you. I had this problem a couple of weeks ago after installing a rather large sound system in my buddy's 1500. He drove around for a week with the battery terminal loose because I forgot to tighten it after checking to see if the amps got power. The thing kept stalling out on him and was not running right so naturally, we checked everything but the negative terminal.
 
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