Window tint removal

I would just go back to the shop that originally put it in, for fear of making a mess of the windows. You should have stuck with 15% instead of 5. Oh well.

What kind of plow do you have?

I just had to get some off of a truck that it's been on for 10+ years. The tint peeled off ok with a few misc rips (& a razor blade). For the glue, I used laquer thinner. Basically, just pour it on a towel or rag and use the rag to dampen the glue. After a short while it will soften up enough to razor blade clean. It wasn't fun, but I'd imagine a more recent tint job wouldn't be so bad.

Fisher mm2 X Blade Timbrens up front, 500lbs of tube sand in the bed.

Haha... im contemplating the same thing right now. I normally plow with the windows down so its no biggie for me, but its a PITA to always have to roll the windows down to back up at night. I run the 8'2" Boss Poly-V. Need the timbrens...



-- Rick

Steam works wonders.So does Acetone.Call tint shops and get a removal price.Sometimes its worth it.I think most tint comes with clear JB Weld or something similar. SUCKS to get off.

Great.....just great. Looks like I have a fun job ahead of me. I have to remove the tint on my side windows, as the drivers side is all mucked up.

timbrens are great..I've done a few trucks now.. The esiest way is to loosen the top nut on the shock, so the bottom A arm can droop down even further..It gives you plenty of room.. In and out half hour job. The timbrens need a little more room to go in, than the stockers need to come out.

Well the tint peeled right off in one whole sheet.. Now i just have to get all the glue off..I'll let ya know how good the tint remover works on glue.

Windex works as good as anything to remove the glue. Spray the window down real good, wait about 5 minutes and take a single edge razor blade and peal it off.

Duramax88;1477094; said:

timbrens are great..I've done a few trucks now.. The esiest way is to loosen the top nut on the shock, so the bottom A arm can droop down even further..It gives you plenty of room.. In and out half hour job. The timbrens need a little more room to go in, than the stockers need to come out.

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+1 on the Timbrens. Definitely a must have for around $150.

if you use a razor blade make sure they're of quality & throw them away every few strokes. this will minimize fine scratches.

I pulled it all off both my cars cause I kept getting stopped for it. It was getting embarrassing and annoying.

I used adheasive remover to get it started. Most peeled off in 1 piece which wasnt bad at all. If you're slow and careful it should stay in one piece.

The glue comes off with a razor blade and spray adheasive remover. Thats the worst part but I certainly wouldnt pay to have it done when you can do it all yourself in 10 minutes.

Simple green will also remove the left over glue..


8 foot western pro plus ultra mount here, timbrens and ballast!!

you dont need adhesive removers, peel as much as you can, scrape the rest with a single edge razor blade. best to do it with the blade in a handle. after you have all the film removed spray soapy water on the adhesive thats left. and with a NEW blade scrape the adhesive off. every stroke overlapping the one before. just like you are mowing the yard. take care not to touch the edge of the window or the acid etched manufactures tag as this will ruin the edge of the blade. scrape the acid tag last. the soapy solution we use is 1 quart bottle with a good squirt of baby shampoo or joy dish washing liquid. check the pics in my garage. i do this for a living.. you can get a high quality limo (5 %) film like llumar or johnsons and still have real good night time visability. stay away from the "only dye" films, those are the hardest to see out of. Ray.

x2 on the only dye films...all crap...and a wallpaper steamer works on the real tough jobs...but if it is recent tint should be pretty easy.

I used a single edge razor blade and Windex to take the stuff off of the Nissan we bought. Only took a few minutes.

I have removed tint from a few vehicles myself and the easiest and best way that i've found is to use an aerosol gasket remover. The glue will wipe off with one stroke of a rag as easy as wiping up your counter top. Be careful however that you don't get it on your skin or on any plasics as it burns like a ***** and it will slightly melt (very slightly) plastic.

I also used full strength Simple Green. Let it soak a few minutes and it will cut the glue.

Try hi strength rubbing alcohol to remove the glue.