which antifreeze?
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The usual recommendation is to:
(1) groan loudly,
(2) go buy the Dexcool (I would go with Prestone),
(3) drain and flush with water,
(4) fill (Try to end up with the right mix, remembering that a lot of water doesn't drain from the block. Refill with straight antifreeze, then top off with distilled water if needed.),
(5) be sure to use the bleeder to get out as much air as possible.
The big suspicion that causes Dexcool to go bad is air (or maybe hot trapped air?).
Also, 5 years? No, replace it every 3-4 years.
(1) groan loudly,
(2) go buy the Dexcool (I would go with Prestone),
(3) drain and flush with water,
(4) fill (Try to end up with the right mix, remembering that a lot of water doesn't drain from the block. Refill with straight antifreeze, then top off with distilled water if needed.),
(5) be sure to use the bleeder to get out as much air as possible.
The big suspicion that causes Dexcool to go bad is air (or maybe hot trapped air?).
Also, 5 years? No, replace it every 3-4 years.
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jake111;1553332; said:
Agreed!
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Got Juice, Any help on the location of that bleeder valve, or anyone else? I am not aware of its location. Also, after flushing and driving a short distance do I leave the engine run while trying to bleed out air or shut it off first and try to bleed air out. OR..... am I just getting my chain yanked here
I did mine yesterday (an 8.1 gas). I couldn't find a bleeder, but I did take the heater hose off and as I added Dex-Cool, the flush water (distilled) was being pushed out of the top of the block. I have a 20+ qt. cooling system, so I added 11 qts Dex-Cool and have 1/2 gallon 50-50 left. I did read that parking uphill helps to get the air out of the system.
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4,329 Posts
You def want to go back w/dexcool, it leaves a coating on the metal ocomponents and going to green really screws it up. Dexcool has so many problems for many reasons. One reason is dex cool makes all the crud and junk that normally collects in the bottom of your radiator float up into the puke tank. Why these boys cant put coolant filers on from the factory (liek big rigs have done forever and ever) is beyond me. (bean counters). THat is why you see all that garbage in your puke tank but hwy not filter it out? Secondly if you check the ph on dex cool it is mcuh more acidi then the green stuff was so watching th eph and maintaining it is much more crucial. Also, dex cool doesnt mix well w/rust and calcium lime in your hydrant (if you use tap water to mix w/it. YOu need to used distilled water. But because of the previous statement about how dex cool elaves a film on the metal etc you shouldnt switch.
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:agreed: The 1st thing I do is remove the factory fill that has tap water and left over casting sand particles in it (within the 1st 6 mos. or so) and refill with Dex and distilled water.thejdman04;1555385; said:
I can't place enough emphasis on how much a filter helps. This will keep the Dex in crystal clear condition and free of pump damaging and (corr/scale) inhibitor film robbing abrasives. Sediment or stained walls in the recovery tank will not exist. FWIW I've been doing this for years and never had a coolant quality or water pump issue.
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Completly drain and use Mobil Delvac HD Extended Life. The best Hd antifreeze you can get. Most truck service companies use it and the guys running the big 600-700 HP's in their off road equipment use it too. it's over kill but you'll never worry about it.
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I believe it is on the top to the thermostat housing (near oil-fill tube)... Cheers.msheriff;1555218; said:Got Juice, Any help on the location of that bleeder valve, or anyone else? I am not aware of its location. Also, after flushing and driving a short distance do I leave the engine run while trying to bleed out air or shut it off first and try to bleed air out. OR..... am I just getting my chain yanked here
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237 Posts
Blue headed bolt with yellow x
Thanks guys, I just look and saw it. I would have never know about it if not for this site:ro)
I'm assuming that I get the engine to operating temp then crack that bolt open to see if any air comes out. Please correct me if not.
Also, the head of the bolt is painted blue and there is a yellow x beside it with one flat short blue line above it. What does this mean? I bought the truck new with 8 miles on the ticker so I could break it in the way I wanted to. That housing has never been touch since out of the factory.
Thanks guys, I just look and saw it. I would have never know about it if not for this site:ro)
I'm assuming that I get the engine to operating temp then crack that bolt open to see if any air comes out. Please correct me if not.
Also, the head of the bolt is painted blue and there is a yellow x beside it with one flat short blue line above it. What does this mean? I bought the truck new with 8 miles on the ticker so I could break it in the way I wanted to. That housing has never been touch since out of the factory.
As you finish filling and it stops burping, open the bleed bolt until coolant pours out without air. Then close it up and check/top the reservoir level often after you start up and run around to get the t-stats to open. (Don't overfill the reservoir like I did because that just ends up on the ground).
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jake111;1559384; said:
I can't understand why some are wasting their time bleeding that t-stat housing bolt. When the engine warms up and the stats open all air in the housing will flush out with the coolant. There's absolutely no reason to bleed in that location.
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