I would apply lyme in the spring, but first I would go and get a bag of Scotts weed killer and fertilizer, use a 15-20-15 blend and apply at a setting of 4.5 on your broadcast style spreader, apply just after a rain when the ground is wet to help the granuals stick to the grass. I would also raise your mower hieght to about 3" to avoid cutting to deep and burning the roots with hot sun. About mid spring, I would apply some turf builder at about the same setting on your spreader. Water regularly. It may be necc to use some grub killer depending on your growing area. I like to follow up in the fall with some Round-up over the entire lawn, because by now, it looks like hell! I have chosen rubber grass and some well placed rocks to disguise my yard and have found that painted concrete will give equally good results with low maint.
Its lime not lyme. Lyme is the town in Ct that Lyme Disease is named for.
Apply lime in the fall, 1 week prior to applying a winterizing fert. Lime helps the lawn absorb the fert. Also, I would recommend you aerate the lawn with a power aerator. This helps with thatch. Always cut you lawn on your mowers highest setting. This helps promote better root growth and protects against drought and weeds.
Being a water treatment chemical sales person, the only thing lime does is to raise the pH of the ground. Different parts of the country have different pH soils. I am not an agronomist so I do not know at what pH grass grows the best, but I would get a soil analysis done before I would add lime. Here in the upper midwest our soil has a high pH so we have to add aluminum sulfate to lower it. ( How the heck did this diesel forum turn into an ag forum?
For a good number of years Lime has been an integral part of breaking down certain materials that are placed in a hole. I am not sure that it will work at this site but it does a great job of breaking down the Pooooopy.
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