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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all.

Got 140,000 KLMs on the truck. About 80,000 miles. I suspect that I am due, soon

What is the job like to do all four?

02 Silverado. First change.
 

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When I talk to my mechanic later today or tomorrow I'll ask him how the job is,

70K miles, stock & original brakes and wondering how BAD they look.

Between all new MOOG front end parts and the brakes I am into it for about $700 in parts alone........:rolleyes:
 

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Have fun getting the caliper off if your doing the rotors. Its a major PITA because its on so tight from the factory. Also, get ready to spend ALOT of rotors, they cost about $125-$150 each.

Its not any different from any other car/truck though really. Also, go get a chiltons book if your not sure on how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanx guys.

Whats needed for tools?
 

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Don't assume you will need a brake job just because of mileage. On my 02 D/A, I pulled the front brake pads at 70,000 and they had better than 75% left. I pulled the left rear only, and they had better than 75% left. On my 05 before I sold it with 30K on it, they looked like new.
 

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I rotate my tires every 6K, trust me, I need the brakes replaced.........:cool:

All those 100 MPH to 0 mph stops will take it's toll after a while and the stop and go city driving too.

T:D NY
 

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Before you get in too deep, pull the wheels off, grab a flashlight, stick your head in the wheelwell, and take a look at the pads. Good pads will have more than, say, an eighth of an inch of lining left on them. Less than that and you should be careful about not running out of lining, otherwise you'll have grinding brakes and ruin the rotors. Also with the wheels off, take a look at the rotors. Look for any grooving or scoring. If everything looks good, put it all back together and check back in another 30K.

If it doesn’t look good, it is easy to do a brake job. All you need to do pads is a ratchet (or a breaker bar or something similar), a torx bit to fit the retaining bolts on the caliper (I can‘t remember exactly but I think it‘s a 55 or a 60 on those trucks), and a c-clamp. Rotors are a bit more complicated, but you probably won’t need to do those anyway.

Just use the bit and the ratchet to remove the two long screws that hold the caliper on and pop the caliper off. Leave the old pads in position until after you use the c-clamp to squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Remove the old pads and install the new ones. Reassemble everything and put the wheels back on. Pump the brakes several times until there is a good solid pedal.

Good luck!
 

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Just be sure that when you are pressing the caliper pistons back in that you do it very slowly, you could damage your ABS if you do it to quickly. Good idea to remove the brake fluid cap too.
 

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I haven't done them on my new truck, but disc brakes are pretty easy. You will need to get an allen socket set if you want any chance to get the calipers off (normally they are pretty big allen that is not in a standard allen set). You will need a C clamp to return the piston all the way out (use old brake pad to clamp onto). For most rotors, you can get them turned only 1 time depending on how grooved they are. Don't let the old pads dig into the rotors. As my dad told me when I bought my first car.....paying for brake work is the biggest rip-off you can pay for.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanx or the replies, guys. I tow a trailer and we are gonna get into mountains, out here.

Will look at em, when the weather warms up.
 

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lots of brake cleaner. things get dirty quick, too.

i recently changed the fronts on an 01 dodge 2500 c/6spd. once i figured it out it wasn't that bad of a project. i don't know if our setup has this, but the dodge had these stupid metal retainers that you had to pry out and practically hammer back in. also, you had to tear the caliper bracket in half and try to squeeze the lubed-up shafts back into their corresponding boots, while holding the pads in. super fun.
 

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Just loosen the master cyl cap, don't remove it. Don't forget to tighten it back down when you're done.

Brake fluid eats paint...
 

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When I talk to my mechanic later today or tomorrow I'll ask him how the job is,

70K miles, stock & original brakes and wondering how BAD they look.

Between all new MOOG front end parts and the brakes I am into it for about $700 in parts alone........:rolleyes:
Tony any reason you didn't go with other brands of front end parts? SD etc...

I know Moog is good stuff... but just wondering...I'm prob due for some front end work...
 

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Tony any reason you didn't go with other brands of front end parts? SD etc...

I know Moog is good stuff... but just wondering...I'm prob due for some front end work...
I have a SD Center link being installed along with all Moog parts. I already had the sleeves.

I had all Fabtec stuff because it was supposedly HD, but it is under recall and I guess the reason I went with MOOG is because they seem to be good replacement parts.

I found that my wheels would TOE OUT 2" each because the centerlink rolls and the Idler & Pitman arm were worn.

With 70K miles and the Hi-Boost launches along with the 33" tires I figure everything should go and be replaced at once.

I know the brakes were beyond saving and the GM Rotors are "JUNK"

I went with CENTRIX Rotors and Ceramic Pads........

Hopefully I made a good choice ????

T:help2: NY
 

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I have a SD Center link being installed along with all Moog parts. I already had the sleeves.

I had all Fabtec stuff because it was supposedly HD, but it is under recall and I guess the reason I went with MOOG is because they seem to be good replacement parts.

I hear ya about that, I have to call & see whats up with the recall.
 

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Got am update from the mechanic, with 70K miles the brakes are shot, rotors were really bad.

The good news is that the idler arm and pitman arn were the only two worn items in te whole front end........

In fact he did not even bother with the SD centerlink because the front end is tight now again.

I will probably go with the Cognito braces and see how that does.

As far as the brakes, the left rear caliper is busting balls, the pin is frozen in the caliper, if he can't get the pin out I'll get a new caliper..........:rolleyes:

Should have it back tomorrow......

I guess I'll get away pretty cheap on this one !!!!!!!

T:D NY
 

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I have a SD Center link being installed along with all Moog parts. I already had the sleeves.

I had all Fabtec stuff because it was supposedly HD, but it is under recall and I guess the reason I went with MOOG is because they seem to be good replacement parts.

I found that my wheels would TOE OUT 2" each
because the centerlink rolls and the Idler & Pitman arm were worn.

With 70K miles and the Hi-Boost launches along with the 33" tires I figure everything should go and be replaced at once.

I know the brakes were beyond saving and the GM Rotors are "JUNK"

I went with CENTRIX Rotors and Ceramic Pads........

Hopefully I made a good choice ????

T:help2: NY
with that much toe out you'd need tires in about a mile:eek: do you mean 2 degrees?;)
 

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Nope, I really mean 2" of toe out............

Looks like all is well, I really didn't realize how crappy everything was, now it feels like a brand new truck,

T:cool: NY
 
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