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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have no plans to sell any tunes or get into the tune business. I do plan to share tunes with anyone interested and share info and learnings.

So, what is everyone doing with this thing? I'll start:

Base tune, stock

EGR disabled by changing the enable and disable RPM to 4000 and 4100 RPM, respectively.

EGR disgnostic disabled (no cat).

In the main injection table there is a "valley" where the main timing is 0. I have changed these values to 4 degrees. Then smoothed out the transitions. I've read where 10 deg BTDC is roughly optimal for power and econ.

Raised the pilot quantity to 2mm everywhere except at idle...where it's still 1.5...like stock. I've also see tests at higher pilot quantities for mains of 20-30. Most are closer to 4 or 5...just making changes slowly.

No problems so far. Have 320 miles with 3/8 tank left....which seems to be up a bit, but it's only one tank, will need to run a couple more. No changes in the idle range, since I like the quite idle...want to make it quieter.

Next: plan to get to vanes more open at low power cruise. Best econ equivalence ratio is closer to 0.6 (do not need boost at 65 mph), and want to reduce backpressure.

Trying for more econ until I can add fueling by going over 100 mm3 request...(not cheating by varying pulse timing)...future update, we're told.
 

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Interseting sounds good. Sorry I can't add to this. Keep up the work though and let us know your mileages when you do calculate them.
 

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Table B0727 also controls throttle based fuel delivery. Can increase the numbers there based on TPS. This works fairly good for adding fuel without raising pulse width. Have had good results with doing it this way. Can also remove fuel at lower TPS settings to increase economy if needed.
 

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In the main injection table there is a "valley" where the main timing is 0. I have changed these values to 4 degrees. Then smoothed out the transitions. I've read where 10 deg BTDC is roughly optimal for power and econ.
I would be very interested in hearing what difference you felt smoothing that main timing table might make, it sure is a mess stock, as an example the transition from 1000 to 1800 RPM at mm3 below 25 is a little drastic (from -1.8 to 8).

Cheers,
Ross
 

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Would it not work better to set both egr values to 0 ? or 0 and 1
 

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Im just thinking that if the exhaust brake gets engaged you could hit 4k rpm....
 

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I have no plans to sell any tunes or get into the tune business. I do plan to share tunes with anyone interested and share info and learnings.

So, what is everyone doing with this thing? I'll start:

Base tune, stock

EGR disabled by changing the enable and disable RPM to 4000 and 4100 RPM, respectively.

EGR disgnostic disabled (no cat).

In the main injection table there is a "valley" where the main timing is 0. I have changed these values to 4 degrees. Then smoothed out the transitions. I've read where 10 deg BTDC is roughly optimal for power and econ.

Raised the pilot quantity to 2mm everywhere except at idle...where it's still 1.5...like stock. I've also see tests at higher pilot quantities for mains of 20-30. Most are closer to 4 or 5...just making changes slowly.

No problems so far. Have 320 miles with 3/8 tank left....which seems to be up a bit, but it's only one tank, will need to run a couple more. No changes in the idle range, since I like the quite idle...want to make it quieter.

Next: plan to get to vanes more open at low power cruise. Best econ equivalence ratio is closer to 0.6 (do not need boost at 65 mph), and want to reduce backpressure.

Trying for more econ until I can add fueling by going over 100 mm3 request...(not cheating by varying pulse timing)...future update, we're told.
I noticed you have the Predator. Are you able to upload one of Predator's tunes to your laptop and then make changes to it with EFI?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would be very interested in hearing what difference you felt smoothing that main timing table might make, it sure is a mess stock, as an example the transition from 1000 to 1800 RPM at mm3 below 25 is a little drastic (from -1.8 to 8).

Cheers,
Ross
There is that "valley" in the main timing, right in the powerband, where the timing is 0. At high power, it goes up to 9 or 10 degrees. So, I know there's no problem with high cylinder pressures at 10 degrees, if it can handle it at the top end.

I set it to 4, just because I want to make the changes slowly. The only issue I can see from the large timing changes (like -1.8 to 8), in the stock tuning is when you let off the gas. While cruising, if you let off, the rattle noise sometimes increases, as the timing goes to 8 or 9.

I'm just looking at economy and power, not emissions. NOx formation is mostly related to time (exposure) and temperature, so delaying the timing is most probably a NOx thing. I plan to eventually raise the timing some more, but probably not past 8 or 10 in most of the table (except idle, where I've left everything alone).

I think alot of the complexity in the tuning is for emissions, and the peculiarities of the emissions test. The turbo vane target, max, and min are also complex due to the need to maintain backpressure for the EGR. For instance, at idle, the vanes are at 88. Why? It's not like there is boost needed to idle, so why add the backpressure? EGR. I still think there's econ to gain by opening the vanes, and not boosting until higher power requests (like for over 50 mm3).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I noticed you have the Predator. Are you able to upload one of Predator's tunes to your laptop and then make changes to it with EFI?
Yes. I can see exactly what they did, where and how much.
 

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There is that "valley" in the main timing, right in the powerband, where the timing is 0. At high power, it goes up to 9 or 10 degrees. So, I know there's no problem with high cylinder pressures at 10 degrees, if it can handle it at the top end.
Injection timing is also affected by the B0915 table as it is by a couple of others. Those zero's aren't really zeros when the truck is running.
 

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hey keep up the stuff, i need reading material. i plan trying to get with roger zeedyke this weekend to change dad's truck to economy.

thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Injection timing is also affected by the B0915 table as it is by a couple of others. Those zero's aren't really zeros when the truck is running.
Correct, but only when the coolant is below 56C. Once warm, it's just using the main timing map...at least until I know how the IAT correction works...still no multiplier graph for IAT impact.
 

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cit1991...

Send me a tune to make my truck burninate the countryside...

and I will give you some pencil shavings.

Jay
 

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Correct, but only when the coolant is below 56C. Once warm, it's just using the main timing map...at least until I know how the IAT correction works...still no multiplier graph for IAT impact.
So that's how that works.
 

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I'm willing to share a couple of mine, one is about a 75hp economy tune and the other made 400 rwhp according to the gtech. Nothing special just learning like everybody else. Both of these have 5 degreas of timing added almost everywhere in the timing curve but only in the c table main timing. Note these are for a LB7 also the big tune was blowing through a stock tranny and no lift pumps. My Bully Dog Crazy Larry programmer only made 425 according to the gtech.
 

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If you look at all of the Timing tables there is a Timing A,B,C Table and they are referenced by the ecm based on ECT or engine coolant temp.

They are further adjusted by the IAT mulitplier and Fuel temp modifier.

There is also a Pilot Timing A,B,C,D table as well.

If you add too much timing in the wrong spots you will get a part throttle timing rattle when increasing the throttle or if you go WOT from a dead stop you will get a pretty good rattle.

Also if the timing is too agressive it is no good.

You can do a lot with the multiplier tables, that is why they are there.......;)

T:cool: NY
 
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