[big_jon00]

I am looking at installing the transgo shift kit. I have limped my tranny three times with the TST comp. I am looking at running the TST Comp with the 80hp Propane kit from bully dog. I was wondering if I need to get high friction or some other performance clutches in the C1, C2, or C3? The C1 and C2 wouldn't be that bad but I am not looking forward to getting at the C3 clutch pack it's kind of hard to get at.
I don't know where I'll be for numbets but I have seen the Comp put up numbers around 440-450 rwhp adn 940-950 torque. I am guessing around 500 rwhp and 1025 torque. I have the transgo kit and it says that it's good for 600hp with ome clutches???? So, I was hoping that that's all I would have to do, or all the more money I would have to spend.
Oh, and I am looking at going with the BD torque converter. From talking to BD it shouldn't have a problem with what I am doing.
Thanks Jon

 

[Amric]

Suncoast claims 465rwhp if you combine the Transgo kit with their tripple disc torque convertor. TTS Power Systems claims 500hp if you combine it with their single disc Torque Convertor.

 

[dmaxalliTech]

I know that the TTS people have pushed the transgo kit way beyond the 500 hp mark and it has done fine, I think its just a baseline. I am not pushing near that power and mine holds great... I would love to put it to the test though with some big stacks, but not until i swap out the oem convertor.....

 

[Amric]

dmaxalliTech,
Since you have good experience with the Allison and the TransGo kit, I thought you might have an opinion on the following question that is very related to this thread.
I plan to install the trans-go shift kit, but at the current time, I can only afford the shift kit, and can not afford the torque converter. I only want to remove the transmission once, after I can afford the torque converter. I thought while I saved up the money, I could still install the valve body modifications without needing to remove the transmission. This way, while I am saving for the torque converter, I would still be able to take advantage of any increased clutch holding ability that the valve body modifications alone could achieve. The truck is my daily driver, and it can’t be out of service for more than a day. Separating the value body changes and clutch changes into two separate projects would also have the benefit of ensuring that each project could be completed in a single day. So on to my question………

How much horsepower/torque do you feel the valve body modifications alone are worth?Edited by: Amric

 

[dmaxalliTech]

From all of the info i have heard directly from those involved in the develpment of the kit, Just installing the valve body mods is not recommended. The kit is designed to be used as a kit, not one part with out the other, I dont know what effects if any would happen, I suspect that it will shift so freakin hard you cant stand it until you get the C2 mods done... Best advice, wait until your ready to do it all at once...

 

[Amric]

Guess I'll just have to pull it out twice then. I guess I was just being lazy. I always find these projects fun anyway once I get started.

 

[Mike L.]

The C3 clutchpack is not hard at all to get to. They stack in the case just below C1-C2 drum. The problem is knowing what you are doing when you get to the C3. There are things to look for as far as factory assembly that might be incorrect. I found that out on Nick's truck and help from Transgo. The factory Allison manual will not show you this. Assembly of C3 is also very critical, even snap ring location is critical. I get calls from shops asking me why C3 keeps burning up and i ask them " where is squirt hole pointing,are steel plates aligned, are friction clutches aligned, and finally, where is snap ring opening?" The answer from them is always the same, "what are you talking about?" Be carefull who you let modify your Allison, ask some technical questions that i have laid out for you guys, and if you don't get an answer go somewhere else.

 

[dmaxalliTech]

I agree with Mike, I too, even after attending a three day hands on class put on by GM did I know about the criticals of the C3 pack, the only thing they mention is about snap ring placement. I appreciate all the work Trans go has done in order to help us understand this slush box even better. And thanks again Mike for sending me the info from trans go.


Eric

 

[sdaver]

snapring?..Ive heard that somewhere before

 

[BIG DIPPER]

Amric....


Maybe if I were to explain something to you, you could come to your own conclusions..... The mods in the valve-body equalize pressure at both clutch packs that are active making up a gear. Without the kit, 1 clutch pack is seeing 250psi and the other would be 130psi or so. By replacing these valves, both clutch packs will see full pressure. This will not make it shift any harder as the kit requires this anyway. So a guy would think he would gain by putting the valves in an unharmed tranny. Here is where the irony comes in, by modding the C2 piston, you eliminate the charecteristics of the balance piston. Fluid passes through the piston ending up on the opposing side, the Transgo eliminates the amount of fluid on the opposite side by bleeding it off and restricting the amount that gets there anyway....increasing the surface area of C2....so you would think that this would make it shift harder....but it doesn't.


I am in no way claiming that you can install this "KIT" by not dropping the tranny. I have explained what is accomplished, so you can use your own judgement. Hope this helps....

 

[Amric]

Anyone feel free to completly shoot down my thoughts because I've always been a motor person but never worked on a transmission before, but here is what I thought.


I thought the TransGo kit improved the clutch holding capacity of ALL 5 clutch packs. My assumption was all clutch packs would hold better with the TransGo kit, and the direct changes to the C2 clutch was ADDITIONAL to the others because it is the weakest link. If not making the changes to the C2 clutch will make for harder shifting, then why does the c1, c3, c4, and c5 not have the same problem.


Obviously all of you know much more about this than me. I'm just trying to understand.


On another note, if I'm going into the Allison to get to the C2 clutch pack, I think I would like to overkill it and do better frictions on all of the clutch packs. Where would I get the special information on the C3 changes, and can the C1, C3, and C4 even be done without special tools?Edited by: Amric

 

[Bronco]

You guys with big tires should really start thinking about changing your axel gears. This will reduce a ton of stress on the tranny and put the torque out at the axles and wheels where it belongs.

 

[Amric]

You guys with big tires should really start thinking about changing your axel gears. This will reduce a ton of stress on the tranny and put the torque out at the axles and wheels where it belongs.

I never wanted to run a 35" tire, but they came free with the wheels, and the price was so good, I couldn't pass it up. It doesn't feel any slower, and the mileage is the same, so I've been happy with them. And the rain/snow time traction is excellent. No more spinning the tires accidentally and no more locking up the front tires before the ABS kicks in. Everything is working so well, I have no plans to change the gearing.

 

[dmaxalliTech]

amric, lets do this, you pull it, bring it over and we will go through it step be step

 

[Amric]

amric, lets do this, you pull it, bring it over and we will go through it step be step

I really appreciate the offer, but if I pull it first, I don’t know how I would get it to you being its my only means of transportation. Perhaps if I bribe you with Beer, Food, Money, or any combination of the three, we could pull it, and put it back in too.

 

[Bronco]

35" inch tires are cool. You almost need them that big just to get the AAM housing not to hit speed bumps. A stock Dmax will burn the little 245/65 tires loose all day. Hence the tires being the weekest link. You put bigger tires on and you move the bind back up the line. Going in reverse you hit the axels, gears, ujoints, TRANNY, Dmax. You said your truck didn't even slow down a bit. Obviously 35" tall tires won't phase even a stock Dmax. So now you spend a max. of 5k building a bullit proof tranny. Put the strain back down the line. Ujoints,gears, axels and tires. Change your gears and the torque is back out at the axels and tires. I would almost bet you could run 35" tires with 4.11 gears and run a stock tranny with power adders all day long. How many people with power adders and stock tires? Any tranny problems? Edited by: Bronco

 

[dmaxalliTech]

amric, lets do this, you pull it, bring it over and we will go through it step be step

I really appreciate the offer, but if I pull it first, I don’t know how I would get it to you being its my only means of transportation. Perhaps if I bribe you with Beer, Food, Money, or any combination of the three, we could pull it, and put it back in too.

In that case, looks like we are doing the complete job

Wasnt sure if you had other transportation.. We can do it that way if you like. Beer and Food and money always works for me

 

[Bronco]

Just realized I wasn't invited to the picnic. It would be cool if some of it could end up in the D.I.Y. section.

 

[dmaxalliTech]

Bronco, its there, somewhere around here is a trans go install pictoral that i did