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Discussion Starter #1
I've read and re-read numerous articles and information on GVWR's, GCWR's, etc...and am still left wondering: What truck/trailer combo is best?

This is the deal: One container at 6000 lbs. fully loaded, four grown men and about 1000 lbs. of additional tools and gear.

We've been paying big $$$ to have this container flat-bedded across this Great Country and I think it's time we invest in our own truck and trailer. To give us an idea the last tour this sucker made was from Atlantic City, NJ; to Houston, TX; to Salt Lake City, UT; then on to MO and from there up to Chicagoland. I need a truck that will comfortable accomodate four grown men, all their luggage and gear, and this 6000 lb. container cross country.

So far the only certainty is that it needs to be a D-max quad cab with an automatic trans and cruise control. A/C would also be nice.

My next questions:

Fiver or bumper hitch?
Will a 2500 work out with a fiver?
Would a flatbed work out better than a box for the fifth wheel?
What else am I forgetting?

Adrian
 

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i would go with the bumper hitch being that you have 4 grown men with luggage. the luggage needs to go somewhere and a fiver would kill your bed space tremendoulsy. 6000lb is not much for the dmax.
 

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I've read and re-read numerous articles and information on GVWR's, GCWR's, etc...and am still left wondering: What truck/trailer combo is best?

This is the deal: One container at 6000 lbs. fully loaded, four grown men and about 1000 lbs. of additional tools and gear.

We've been paying big $$$ to have this container flat-bedded across this Great Country and I think it's time we invest in our own truck and trailer. To give us an idea the last tour this sucker made was from Atlantic City, NJ; to Houston, TX; to Salt Lake City, UT; then on to MO and from there up to Chicagoland. I need a truck that will comfortable accomodate four grown men, all their luggage and gear, and this 6000 lb. container cross country.

So far the only certainty is that it needs to be a D-max quad cab with an automatic trans and cruise control. A/C would also be nice.

My next questions:

Fiver or bumper hitch? 5'er with a tool box for the luggage
Will a 2500 work out with a fiver? YES
Would a flatbed work out better than a box for the fifth wheel? Will the container fit on a flatbed safely?
What else am I forgetting? Will the truck be used for anything else?

Adrian
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Fiver set up with boxes...

I would get a flatbed fiver (tows better) and add tool boxes... so that the crew has ample storage for tools, clothes... Certainly a 3/4 ton will work fine for the load and cost less to run.

The other route is to get a flatbed dually (add airbags) if the container will fit.
 

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Normally I would say 5er but I will agree with stacks. Sounds like you need storage space.
 

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fiver without a doubt they just pull so much better,
 

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the cheapest would be to buy a used 2 axle car hauler..
I saw a few for under $1,200 out here..
A move above that would be to look into a 5th wheel toy hauler.
put the crate in back, and all the rest up front..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, you guys aren't making this easy! :D

All very valid points. It sounds like for ease of towing the fiver is the way to go but that leaves concern for storage. The idea of tool boxes was presented which could solve that problem. I think that's the way I'm going to go:

2500HD with 20' flatbed fiver. The container's 16' long so the extra 4' of trailer space can be all storage for luggage and tools.

Next questions:

What year D-max do I need to look for? Best for fuel economy and reliability? (I wonder how many times that questions been asked on this forum?)

Will I need a long-box for the fiver or will a shortbed work? My concern is finding a long-box crew cab on a 2500 platform. I've seen them on the 3500's but haven't come across one on a 2500.

Another concern is GVWR on the fifth wheel: Will a 2500 be overweight on the truck axles with a fiver, four men, and a crew cab (possibly even 4x4)? Obviously weighing it would be the best way to tell, but I keep hearing how easy it is to buy a truck that's too small.

What's the GVWR on a 2500? Anyone have any help with figuring weights?

Adrian
 

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gvwr i believe is 9200lbs, and the truck weighs (well mine anyway cc/sb) 7200lbs with me. so that leaves me with 200lbs cargo weight. the rear weight should not be a problem as long as the trailer is loaded right. not to far forward ect.

as far as trucks, the cc 2500 should be fine and a sort box will work, up to you. the 3500 will carry more rear weight. the mileage is also a toss up. the lb7 claim the best mileage, but the 06 and up have the best power. if your towing in the mountains out west or were it is warmer i'd stay away from the lly 04.5-05. they have over heat problems. see that engine section for the threads on it.
 

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GVWR for the various trucks are:
2500 HD = 9,200 lbs
3500 SRW= 9,900 lbs (Single rear wheels)
3500 DRW= 11,400 lbs (Dually)​
All three are available with Crew Cabs. The 3500's all have 8 ft long beds and the 2500's are available with the 6.5 ft short bed or the 8 ft long bed.

If I was going to buy a used truck, I would look for a 2006 or 2007 LBZ. They have the least amount of problems and don't have the new DPF and emission crap that the new LMM trucks have, making them less complicated to run and maintain. (360hp / 650 lb-ft Torque) The 2007 trucks carry the 5yr/100,000mi factory warranty on the complete powertrain. Whereas the 2006 trucks' 5yr/100,000mi warranty is only on the engine. The rest of the powertrain on the 2006 is covered under the 36mo/36,000mi bumper to bumper warranty, unless you buy a GM Certified Used Truck from a GM dealer, which could get the 5yr/100,000mi warranty on the complete powertrain just like the 2007 trucks.

When you all talk about a flatbed fiver, do you really mean a gooseneck trailer?

If you get a 5th wheel trailer, you'll either want to get a long bed truck, or a short bed with a slider hitch. If I were getting a slider hitch, the PullRite SuperGlide would be my choice. It's expensive but works automatically and you never have to worry about remembering to move the slider on tight turns.

A gooseneck trailer on a short bed truck will be less likely to contact the cab on tight turns. Many members like the B&W Turnover Ball Gooseneck Hitch which allows you to have unobstructed use of the bed when not towing the trailer.

If you are concerned about the 9,200 lbs load carrying capacity of the 2500HD and don't want to get a dually, you may want to consider a 3500 SRW, they are all long bed trucks and have 9,900 GVWR.

A 6,000 lb load on a bumper pull trailer is nothing for the Duramax to pull. Keep in mind that the OEM receiver is rated for 7,500 lbs if you pull dead weight. It's rated for 12,000 lbs with a weight distributing hitch.

Many owners will replace the OEM hitch receiver if they do any serious towing. Reese Tow Beast is rated for 12,000 lbs dead weight and 14,000 lbs with a WD hitch. The Putnam SDR is rated for 14,000 / 15,000.

Don't forget to get a good quality trailer brake controller. Tekonsha Prodigy or their flagship P3 Controller are very reliable and are very popular with members here.

Whatever trailer yo buy, make sure that it can handle the 6,000+ lb payload of your container plus any extra equipment you may want to carry This means that you'll probably be looking at a 8,000+ lb GVWR trailer. Many of the cheaper 2-axle car trailers will NOT be able to carry a 6,000+ lb payload.

If you decide to get a New Body Style truck, do NOT get the integrated trailer brake controller. A large number of owners are having problems with the integrated trailer brake controllers and GM is having a difficult time figuring out how to fix the problem.
 
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