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What kind of secondary fuel filtration do you recommend?

11K views 28 replies 12 participants last post by  Turbine Doc 
#1 ·
I've been looking at fuel that comes out of the 5 gallon fuel tanks that I fill from the local fuelling station. I have been surprised and a little shocked at the amount of gunk from virtually any station.

As a result, I've been examining the concept of auxilliary filtration.

What do you guys recommend? Which kits? How hard to install? I appears that I could simply re-route the lift pump and tap into the fuel line there.

How about this one? www.nicktane.com

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
#2 ·
There is actually a forum on the site just for Nicktane questions. I have a Racor 445 that I got off of "A major auction site" for $65 and it has really amazed me with the crap it has kept out of my primary filter. When I installed the second filter, I changed the primary so I get some kind of refrence.
 
#3 ·
I'm using a 2 micron CAT filter setup on my '04 Jetta TDi and have thought about adapting the same to my truck.

http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=138

Otherwise, I might consider this, since it is available with a heater. The heater could be an 'insurance policy' for the winter when I really need the truck.

http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_32&products_id=165


Note: Even in the coldest of weather I have not noticed any indication of fuel in my Jetta jelling (I am running KleanService additives - white bottle in winter; silver in the summer) The Jetta is driven daily. The truck on the other hand is a my 'weekend workhorse' and doesn't see the miles the Jetta does.
 
#4 ·
I use the Racor 445 2-micron setup after the OEM system to act as a finishing filter. The OEM filter catches all of the big stuff and the Racor filters for the smaller stuff. I have it mounted next to the driver side battery. It was the first thing I did to my truck when I got it home new from the dealer.
 
#5 ·
I've used a 645 Racor since 2002 on my Yukon but since driving in salty roads the last 2 winters the corrosion has eaten away part of the base. The seal still holds, but there won't be a next time. I have to replace the base at a minimum before the next filter element. Racor confirmed this can happen as the coating they spray on doesn't necessarily prevent salt corrosion. Next time I plan to use some kind of anticorrosion spray after installing a new filter.
 
#8 ·
I've used a 645 Racor since 2002 on my Yukon but since driving in salty roads the last 2 winters the corrosion has eaten away part of the base. The seal still holds, but there won't be a next time. I have to replace the base at a minimum before the next filter element. Racor confirmed this can happen as the coating they spray on doesn't necessarily prevent salt corrosion. Next time I plan to use some kind of anticorrosion spray after installing a new filter.
Was your filter base painted or did it have the clear coat only?

Carey
 
#6 ·
SuperT,

Got any photos of your mounting setup and routing of fuel lines?

Wha't the difference between the 445 and 645 Racors?
 
#7 ·
SuperT,
Wha't the difference between the 445 and 645 Racors?
The 445 has a primer the 645 does not have a built in primer pump.

The 445 and the 645 can also use the longer 60 or 90 filter elements.

IMO the 6.5's need a filter prelift pump to protect the lift pump. I have a 445 in before my lift pump using the 45P (30 micron filter). I'm going to switch to a 645 filter head because it has less restriction to flow than the 445 has, and the other reason is that the 645 head will let me move the mount up higher and let me run the 60P filter that will last longer and also crosses to a Fleet Guard and Bladwin filter element so it will be easier to get replacements.

Carey
 
#9 ·
The 445 has a primer the 645 does not have a built in primer pump.

The 445 and the 645 can also use the longer 60 or 90 filter elements.

IMO the 6.5's need a filter prelift pump to protect the lift pump. I have a 445 in before my lift pump using the 45P (30 micron filter). I'm going to switch to a 645 filter head because it has less restriction to flow than the 445 has, and the other reason is that the 645 head will let me move the mount up higher and let me run the 60P filter that will last longer and also crosses to a Fleet Guard and Bladwin filter element so it will be easier to get replacements.

Carey
W/O the primer, what's your procedure for replacing the filter and purging the system - gravity ?

BTW, I agree the the 'secondary' filteration should be before the LP. If, or when I add secondary filtration, it will be pre-lift pump.
 
#10 ·
It looks like the "Nicktane" units are designed for the DMax, and are installed just off the fuel tank. Has anyone put one on a 6.5, and if so, did you need to put in a pump to handle the additional restriction?

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
#12 ·
Ideally, I think it would be best to locate the filter before the pump. In reality, I mounted the filter in the easiest to reach location. Is the LP getting unfiltered fuel? Sure. Am I really worried about it? Naw.

On my Blazer, I mounted the same filter to the firewall above (or slightly to the passenger side IIRC) the master cylinder. I'll snap some pictures of my suburban setup, but for Blazers, you may want to look at that location, too.
 
#13 ·
I put the "Nicktane filter" on the fire wall above the stock filter and threw the stock filter away. The CAT filter is longer and when you change it all the big stuff and water go with it. For a little more that $18 bucks you get more filtering area and a better filter that the stock IMHO.
 
#15 ·
FNG,

What did you do for a fuel heater and the water in fuel light?

Carey
 
#14 ·
FNG, thanks for your response. Can you take a few good pics of your setup? I'd love to see it, and I suspect others would as well. Any tips or tricks to getting the filter mounted in that location would be invaluable as well!

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
#16 ·
I unplugged them! Where I live a fuel heater is a waste of energy. The CAT filter is so big that it can hold a pint of water and still have almost the same filtering area as the stock filter. My pics are too big to attach here and I don't know how to reduce the size to fit. The filter is attached to the firewall right above the stock filter.
 
#19 ·
I unplugged them! Where I live a fuel heater is a waste of energy. The CAT filter is so big that it can hold a pint of water and still have almost the same filtering area as the stock filter. My pics are too big to attach here and I don't know how to reduce the size to fit. The filter is attached to the firewall right above the stock filter.
Send them to me via email darnelle@txcyber.com
 
#17 ·
I replaced my lift pump and installed a Racor 645 before it, with a 30 micron element. Mine has the fuel heater option, but I have never hooked it up. Originally I was considering a finer filter, but was afraid of having the filter clog leaving me stranded. 2micron might be overkill for a 6.5 engine, although I think 10 micron would probably be ideal for a prefilter.
 
#18 ·
Once again folks a quick trip to FAQs this thread would have been found http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15002 even a pic of an installed pre lift pump filter, which is required IMO to keep the crud from eating away the innards of the lift pump. 2 micron is too fine a filter for primary or all in one filter, makes a great final filter though call Racor, Wix, & Baldwin all will say same BTW BF1201 is p/n for Baldwin filter, & 33376 is Wix P/n according to those site it is a 5 micron nominal rated filter, GM manual says filter is a 10 Micron, I'll defer to the filter mfr over GM.
 
#20 ·
Check out Mercedes spare parts, there's a pre-filter on mine that made me think it could nicely be used as a pre-filter in the line before the lift pump on my truck. Two versions are available, one straight and one with a 90 degree angle at the outlet side. It costs EUR 1.98; when it's dirty, you just replace it.
 
#22 ·
Lee it's the knowing when it's dirty thats important, which is why you need some sort of sensor mechanical or electrical to KNOW when any filter is dirty, especially with variable fuel supply sources, I've had "just replaced new filters" (Prior to Racor install) need to be changed with as few as 5000 mi, fuel filter life is only as good as fuel put into tank, which is why step one in any fuel related problem should include a filter change, unless you have some instrumentation that shows that a filter is still clean. You WVO guys know this the hard way, filter-filter-and more filter is only way to go with WVO.
 
#21 ·
When sizing for secondary filtration also make sure you don't size the filter for too small a flow Racor 445 is 45 gph, I run a 460 for 60 gph as I knew I'd be doing things that required max flow capability, when selecting an filter from another vehicle as OLee suggests just make sure it will deliver what the engine needs without any restriction.

IMO this is where GM screwed up on DMAXES too small a micron rating for all in one filter body at marginal filter flow size, especially when modding for more power, Nicktane et als aftermarket filters while same micron rating work because they are physically larger in size and have more dirt carry/loading capability, more thoughts from and old post here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4052&highlight=micron+filters lots of discussion on this when early DMAXES were having many injector problemssearch the early DMAX fgorum and volumes of info/opinion on this issue.
 
#23 · (Edited)
TDoc, are there any filters having such a sensor?

We don't get dirty fuel in Europe, so it's not so much of an issue. The Mercedes filter is made of clear plastic, so you can see if it's dirty (but it can be dirty without looking so, mine was). They are easy to install/replace, and they are cheap enough to carry around a handfull of them and replace them whenever the need arises :)

Maybe the fuel lines on the trucks have a larger diameter then these filters are designed for, that can be a problem. But then, maybe there are larger versions of them that could be used.

The idea is to use something that's cheap enough and easily available. Maybe there's some kind of pre-filter on the 18wheelers that can be used? I'd think that such a one would flow more than enough :)

Cummins folks seem to use fuel pressure gauges to tell fuel pressure coming from the lift pump. Such a gauge could also indicate a clogged pre-filter.
 
#24 ·
Some Marine & HD industrial & over the road filter housings have DP "pop up" DP indicators in their housings, I went with Racors vacuum switches, they and others sell dp gauges.
 
#25 ·
45 GPH isn't enough for a 6.5?? :wtf1::drop_mout
 
#26 ·
45 gph is enough at steady state speed but what about instantanious demand, my concern was any flow restriction at higher fuel delivery demand once one starts pushing the "more power" envelope, more filter area in 60 gph filter less prone to restriction at higher demand, also a precursor to a dual lift pump install I was considering (wanted to not stress media with draw of 2 pumps in partially blocked condition), still on table if higher delivery single lift pump doesn't deliver as expected. Wish I had access to flow bench the 60 gph was purely a "SWAG" on my part & "Bigger is better" thought process and review of flow tables on RACORS site; 445 & 460 use same head & base I think just different element heights.
 
#28 ·
Here's a pic ... The setup is utterly simple :)

I'm going to install an electrical lift pump or so because the engine doesn't seem to get enough fuel to tow my camper ...
 

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#29 ·
Lee do you have a manufacturer & pn for this filter, I want to see if I can cross reference it to a Wix or a Baldwin filter to see micron rating.

BTW both Racor & Wix say on engine filter is a 5 micron nominal rated filter; GM manual says filter is 10 micron I'll defer to filter companies over GM on this one,

Wix pn is 33376 and Balwin's pn is BF-1201
 
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