successfully removed all 6 turbo crossover bolts and put in a new diamond eye turbo crossover!
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The latest es stuff I’ve used has a pretty soft durometer rating. There’s definitely a little more vibration transfer, but nothing like the early days of poly mounts. The chemical resistance is a big thing for me and my leaky vehicles. Although I did just find the oem mount for just about the same price as the es stuff. My old track car was an 80s Audi with delrin mounts everywhere. Add the aluminum racing seat with pretty much a sponge for a cushion and you can kiss your tailbone goodbye.
And the cheap duralast mount is now in place. Went in flawlessly. The old mount was severely toasty. Worst one I’ve taken out. And the only casualty was my pinky finger that I broke while stupidly reaching for the jack stand while simultaneously turning my head to look at something else. It’s an avulsion fracture at the last joint…I’ve done it plenty of times before on both hands, so I’m 99% on it being the same thing. It’ll heal up soon enough and won’t really hinder me. Just reminds me to quit being a dumb ass.
Pictures of the trans mount carnage…
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And the cheap duralast mount is now in place. Went in flawlessly. The old mount was severely toasty. Worst one I’ve taken out. And the only casualty was my pinky finger that I broke while stupidly reaching for the jack stand while simultaneously turning my head to look at something else. It’s an avulsion fracture at the last joint…I’ve done it plenty of times before on both hands, so I’m 99% on it being the same thing. It’ll heal up soon enough and won’t really hinder me. Just reminds me to quit being a dumb ass.
Pictures of the trans mount carnage…
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I see what you mean by leaks. Yup poly is the way to go. At least the leaks help keep the rust at bay 
My Hot Rod (87 Mustang HO). has all poly and lowered springs. Plus a bunch of other suspension mods. It rides pretty stiff. But goes thru the corners great.
My Hot Rod (87 Mustang HO). has all poly and lowered springs. Plus a bunch of other suspension mods. It rides pretty stiff. But goes thru the corners great.
I really wish the leaks reached everywhere sometimesAt least the leaks help keep the rust at bay
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Nice work!
Thanks Okdually 👍Still, a reasonable price considering the economy
Nice find!
I think so as well.
Again, just practicing for my 6.5, but it applies…
Tried to remove the old, rusty, crusty brake bleeder screw from the passenger caliper on my 1991 K2500 (5.7). MAP gas torch and days of PB Blaster did nothing and it snapped off. Tried drilling it out a bit and using an extractor…nothing. Tried drilling it out more and using a bigger extractor…nothing. Checked AutoZone and found the remanned caliper is only $37.99. I wouldn’t have even tried getting that bleeder out if I knew the calipers were so cheap. I’m pretty sure the fittings on my daily 6.5 are in much better shape, but it was good practice. And the caliper bolts came out pretty easily, surprise surprise. Now if the rotors were just outboard of the hubs…for now it’s just getting new calipers and the pads and rotors are staying. I almost bought a brake lathe off of Facebook marketplace the other day…but I have no room for it.
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Tried to remove the old, rusty, crusty brake bleeder screw from the passenger caliper on my 1991 K2500 (5.7). MAP gas torch and days of PB Blaster did nothing and it snapped off. Tried drilling it out a bit and using an extractor…nothing. Tried drilling it out more and using a bigger extractor…nothing. Checked AutoZone and found the remanned caliper is only $37.99. I wouldn’t have even tried getting that bleeder out if I knew the calipers were so cheap. I’m pretty sure the fittings on my daily 6.5 are in much better shape, but it was good practice. And the caliper bolts came out pretty easily, surprise surprise. Now if the rotors were just outboard of the hubs…for now it’s just getting new calipers and the pads and rotors are staying. I almost bought a brake lathe off of Facebook marketplace the other day…but I have no room for it.
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Wireless Endoscope, Wi-Fi Industrial Borescope with 6 LED Lights, 7.9mm 3 in 1 USB Snake Camera, Waterproof IP67 Inspection Camera for OTG Android, iPhone (10ft, Type-C, Micro, Lightning): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Wireless Endoscope, Wi-Fi Industrial Borescope with 6 LED Lights, 7.9mm 3 in 1 USB Snake Camera, Waterproof IP67 Inspection Camera for OTG Android, iPhone (10ft, Type-C, Micro, Lightning): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
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You're putting in work!
I fixed my power steering leak. The rubber part rubbed through on the body (evidence of the leak in the background)
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The damaged rubber section went from a hardline under the radiator to the cooler so fortunately was the low pressure side. Fixed with a new length of hose and clamps.
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The damaged rubber section went from a hardline under the radiator to the cooler so fortunately was the low pressure side. Fixed with a new length of hose and clamps.
Decided to spend some money today.
4L80E with t-case $200
165k 6.5 from 96 Suburban $500
Might do a full tear down on the transmission or might just run it when the time comes.
Engine will get a look through and probably ARP head studs and new gaskets if everything looks ok. Sucks that the suburban got scrapped, it was the cleanest I’ve seen up in New England and the cloth seats were near mint.
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4L80E with t-case $200
165k 6.5 from 96 Suburban $500
Might do a full tear down on the transmission or might just run it when the time comes.
Engine will get a look through and probably ARP head studs and new gaskets if everything looks ok. Sucks that the suburban got scrapped, it was the cleanest I’ve seen up in New England and the cloth seats were near mint.
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So I had replaced the completely rotted out trans mount a few weeks ago and broke my pinky finger in the clean up afterwards…yeah…super stupid. But I still had a crazy intermittent vibration. I also had a fluid leak at the transfer case, so I assumed it was rear driveshaft u-joints. Wrong. The transfer case has actually backed off a hair, probably from the bad trans mount allowing vibrations to walk the bolts out. Luckily no broken bolts and I got under there today and tightened up the bolts and dropped the front prop shaft that was in bad need of u-joints. I’m guessing I’ll just replace it as it seems the greasable slip joint is seized up and I don’t know if I want to refurb it, because I’m lazy. I’m pretty sure those were the original 251k u-joints as they had the factory style bearing cap retainer straps welded on.
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