[Dadddyoh]

If it is only one cylinder check out sleeving that cylinder.

 

[UKAlan]

With the high fuel prices. i have been doing things to improve Mileage.
Took off my Mud terrains and put on highway tires. 285x17
Aligned the front end for best fuel mileage.
Cleaned my air filter
Checked fuel system tank to IP.
Changed oil Rotella T6
Changed Trans, xfer case fluid, front and rear diffs to synthetic
Removed lumber racks.
Installed the stock front air dam I removed many years ago.
Should help a lot. Just switching out to highway tires gives me 2-3 MPG on the freeway.
Havent checked mileage. But boost pressures going down the highway are 1-2 lbs lower now. That was my goal .
Less air= less fuel.

If you think your fuel prices are high, try the UK for size. Diesel is currently $11.25 a gallon and still going up! 😱

 

[dieselolds]

If you think your fuel prices are high, try the UK for size. Diesel is currently $11.25 a gallon and still going up! 😱

Our diesel prices are crazy too.About $11 a gallon here as well in places.

 

[LinePilot]

Well my driver door got to where it couldn't be opened from the inside.....so today I tore the door apart to see what was going on. Turned out the handle was cracked and not allowing the rod to move far enough to release the latch. Autozone had a Dorman replacement for 25 bucks....was even the right color so I put it on. Also reshaped the rod a little bit to make it shorter...now the door opens easily with less travel on the handle. Waiting for the passenger side to go next......

 

[LinePilot]

Our diesel prices are crazy too.About $11 a gallon here as well in places.

Damn....almost 400 dollars to fill up a 35 gallon tank....plum crazy.

 

[dieselolds]

It’s crazy here all over.Also can’t get rotella T6 anyplace anymore.I guess south of the border has the same problem too.I’ve since stocked up on rotella 30W before that disappears altogether.

 

[smdk2500]

Well what I did was nothing good but isn't any thing major. Had to pull a small tree out of the ground today. Tried using the tow hooks to hook the chain to but discovered that I cant loop a chain through them because of the impact bumpers on the bumper block access to them. Who with GM thought that would be a good idea. Anyway just turned the truck around and wrapped the chain around the ball. I know it's not made for that but it was a small tree maybe 2 in in diameter and just tapping the throttle lightly pulled it out of the ground. Went to park and was backing up not paying full attention to where I was and backed right into the lifting post of a dumpster. So I have a nice dent right below my tail light. I was worried that I took out the tail light. Right now I rather have a dent then have to replace the tail light.

 

[showman]

Went under to investigate what the source of an unpleasant starting sound that I was pretty sure was a loose starter bolt. Confirming my suspicion didn't take long as I found half a starter bolt on the ground. Extracting the other half from the block was "fun" but I got there in the end. About 12 months ago these bolts required tightening. A little further investigation revealed why they were loose then and why this bolt snapped. The bracket for the nose of the starter was not bolted to the block!

 

[OkDually]

Went under to investigate what the source of an unpleasant starting sound that I was pretty sure was a loose starter bolt. Confirming my suspicion didn't take long as I found half a starter bolt on the ground. Extracting the other half from the block was "fun" but I got there in the end. About 12 months ago these bolts required tightening. A little further investigation revealed why they were loose then and why this bolt snapped. The bracket for the nose of the starter was not bolted to the block!

Inspect the starter bolt holes well. If they get out of round you'll have more issues.
When reinstalling new starter bolts only use the OEM bolts with the knurling

 

[tnDan]

Inspect the starter bolt holes well. If they get out of round you'll have more issues.
When reinstalling new starter bolts only use the OEM bolts with the knurling

AC Delco at minimum for bolts but I've notice my last set of delco seemed light on the knurling.
Have bought ARP starter bolts since. Very well designed and comes with new washers.

Regardless of what brand, HAND torque the bolts, make sure you have proper washers too.
Support bracket is must.

 

[56pan]

Went under to investigate what the source of an unpleasant starting sound that I was pretty sure was a loose starter bolt. Confirming my suspicion didn't take long as I found half a starter bolt on the ground. Extracting the other half from the block was "fun" but I got there in the end. About 12 months ago these bolts required tightening. A little further investigation revealed why they were loose then and why this bolt snapped. The bracket for the nose of the starter was not bolted to the block!

Sir, you're very lucky you don't have a cracked block. That front starter support is_important_.

 

[blackmanta]

I pulled out the spare hydroboost unit I got from a parts truck and started loosening the bolts for a rebuild. I have the full rebuild kit. It's way too hot out there to do it now, so I'll tackle it after work. Then I'll have a good rebuilt unit ready to swap in when I get around to doing the brakes. On a side note, I notice there are 2 different versions of the front disc brakes. I'm sure I could tell them apart when new, but old rusty, crusty ones? Anyone know how to differentiate between the 2? Mine is a 2000 K3500 standard can single rear wheel 8ft bed, if that helps...

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[snarl95]

The SRW rotors are thinner and the calipers are smaller than the DRW. You can use the rotors,calipers and pads for the DRW on SRW but you have to use all of it, you can't mix and match.

 

[blackmanta]

Ah, ok, it's just the DRW vs SRW. OK. That makes sense. I'm going to do the hubs, rotors, pads, new ss hard lines, flex lines, sway bar links, and cv shafts all at once. I mean.... why not?

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[blackmanta]

Yesterday, I finally got around to reattaching the interior window sweep on the driver door panel. The staple gun definitely will not do it on its own. I drilled pilot holes using the staples as a template. Then I held it in place and put my Stanley electric staple gun over the holes as best as I could and fired the staple into the pilot holes. Mostly. It took a couple shots most times. Then I used a flat blade screwdriver to bend the staple legs to secure the staples. Worked fine and my door panel is back together now. And I put all new trim clips in that I bought off Amazon. Nice and secure. And I had already put my new heated power turn signal mirrors on a couple weeks ago, but I still need to wire up the heat and turn signals, but that'll wait. I did buy a suburban ac control plate with the defrost button... that'll make it a little easier...a little...

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[smdk2500]

Changed oil and fuel filters. Found my exhaust leak. When i had the exhaust shop put doughnuts in I'm guessing the monkey behind the wrench went nuts with the impact when tighting the bolts and stripped the threads, I had one bolt missing with no threads in the hole. I was able to fit a 3/8 bolt in there with a nut on the other side. It isn't leaking as bad as it was but I'll have to get new gaskets again.

 

[56pan]

Changed oil and fuel filters. Found my exhaust leak. When i had the exhaust shop put doughnuts in I'm guessing the monkey behind the wrench went nuts with the impact when tighting the bolts and stripped the threads, I had one bolt missing with no threads in the hole. I was able to fit a 3/8 bolt in there with a nut on the other side. It isn't leaking as bad as it was but I'll have to get new gaskets again.

I'd say that was a shop you'd never take your truck to again!

 

[smdk2500]

I'd say that was a shop you'd never take your truck to again!

Yeah don't plan on it. Only reason I took it to them was I was short on time and needed other exhaust work done and they where the only place in town that could do anything with 4in piping.

 

[blackmanta]

Drove it about 1/2 a mile to go look at a 95 Suburban. It's been beat on a bit, but it runs with a little blow by and some leaks and a stupid hood stack... gonna pick it up for a grand and put it right, then decide what to do with it. Barn doors, the full floater rear, clean frame, some body damage, a little rot in the ticket under the passenger rear door, but overall a good work truck. I didn't check if it's got the g80 rear diff, but for a grand, I don't really expect too much out of it. Might be a plow truck.

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[blackmanta]

So here's the 95 Suburban K2500 I just picked up. Needs a bunch and had some body rot, but limited to bottoms of the doors and the passenger rear door rocker area. Frame is clean. Needs glow plugs and controller and I already replaced the OPS. I just pulled the stupid turbo exhaust flange flip and cobbled together hood exit. Gonna cut the hood stack off later today. I'll put on a good hood and driver door and fender as soon as I find a good parts truck. Engine has a little blow by at 241k, but I'll put in a new CDR and put a real air cleaner/ intake on it and see if it helps at all. Runs nice and has plenty of power and throttle response. Also needs a driver seat.
It's got a torque converter lockup switch and high idle switch on the dash and 1 more switch that I'll have to figure out... also has glow shift 4 gauge A-pillar pod with boost, trans temp, and air pressure and one empty pod. So I'm happy with the buy at $1000. I'll update it as I do the work. If anyone is looking, I might be selling it when it's set right. Maybe...

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