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Can't help myself. Dorman. That company is a pestilence. On the IATN forum (International Automotive Technician's Network) they have zero respect. And these guys fix vehicles for a living and know their stuff.
I have to say dorman has come a long way from what they used to be.I’ve tried some of their “OE FIX” engine parts for the Chevy trax which worked out very well.
 

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I quit using anything from Dorman years ago after nothing but one junk part after another. I hope you're right and they've changed. They needed to.
 

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I threw a water bottle at it because it left me stranded and i had to go get my other truck and trailer to haul it to the house. Then it decided to run perfectly once i got home.
 
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Ronald Reagan fan
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I quit using anything from Dorman years ago after nothing but one junk part after another. I hope you're right and they've changed. They needed to.
To be honest I think their product line has improved over what it was say 10yrs ago.Everything I’ve used from them the past years on some vehicles I’ve repaired has turned out well.I believe the quality control is much better.
 

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I picked up a new flight systems pmd with thermal pad from kr_services on eBay last night to have as a spare in case my grey stanadyne unit starts giving me grief.

I’m thinking at this point of getting a piece of 3/4” thick 6061 aluminum and drill through it completely with npt barb fittings on each side and have diesel fuel pass through it directly under the location of each transistor on the pmd once the plate is drilled and tapped.

I think it’ll do a good job of keeping things cool along with incoming airflow into the front bumper.It was just something I was planning to do.Comments?Thoughts?All are welcomed.

I did see the same sort of setup on a Mack tandem truck maybe 20yrs ago.There was a fuel solenoid driver mounted upon the injection pump with diesel fuel passing into the module location and then leaving it to keep it cool so I’d like to do the same thing.
 

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I’m thinking at this point of getting a piece of 3/4” thick 6061 aluminum and drill through it completely with npt barb fittings on each side and have diesel fuel pass through it directly under the location of each transistor on the pmd once the plate is drilled and tapped.

I think it’ll do a good job of keeping things cool along with incoming airflow into the front bumper.It was just something I was planning to do.Comments?Thoughts?All are welcomed.
Interesting idea. How about using an off the shelf heatsink? Like this:
Wood Rectangle Font Musical instrument accessory Metal


Pretty sure with a bit of searching one can be found with (about) the right dimensions. This idea will add more possible points of failure (leaks and/or air intrusion) though.
 

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Interesting idea. How about using an off the shelf heatsink? Like this:
View attachment 651345

Pretty sure with a bit of searching one can be found with (about) the right dimensions. This idea will add more possible points of failure (leaks and/or air intrusion) though.
Absolutely.Your right about possible leakage,etc.I was just thinking of a few different ways to maybe improve cooling of our pmd modules.I like the fuel idea of circulating throughout the plate.I think it’s a great idea overall.👍
 
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Just FYI Dorman bought Flightsystems automotive control group back in 2018. So unless older than 2018. Flightsystems PMD are Dorman. As far as I can find. Flightsystem and now Dorman PMD are still made in USA at the same plant where they were built before the buy out.
Unless it is marked made in another country. I know Dorman was importing them for a long time before buying Flightsystems
 

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I was underneath working on my engine removal and noticed I have a leak on my trans and transfer case that I need to deal with once I get it running again. Add that to the list that includes my leaking front diff.
 

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Interesting idea. How about using an off the shelf heatsink? Like this:
View attachment 651345

Pretty sure with a bit of searching one can be found with (about) the right dimensions. This idea will add more possible points of failure (leaks and/or air intrusion) though.
I got an email back about this liquid cooled heat sink and they will custom make one for me of any size.They just want the dimensions and they will get back to me on a cost with freight.I’ll let you guys know what I find out when I hear back from them.
 
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How about using the wiper/washer reservoir fluid to circulate through the PMD heat sink......think that tank holds about a gallon or so. Run some tubing down there with an inline pump of some sort....that way if it failed or leaked it wouldn't cause any engine problems. Could be wired up to run when the engine is on, like the lift pump. Maybe add another washer tank to increase capacity.....just an idea.
 

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Why not tap into the AC on the low pressure side and run a refrigerant line thru a heat sink? Maybe enclose the PMD in its own little insulated refrigerator.:)
 
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Finally got around to fixing the problem I have been living with for a while (too long!) Replaced the encoder sensor in the diesel pump. It now starts first time again and does not run in limp home.
 

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Today I picked up two new acdelco 6.5 turbo injectors that are made in Germany.Total cost was $130.The part number is 217-233.I have a complete set of 8 Bosch Germany injectors that I’ll probably use sometime soon.
 

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With the high fuel prices. i have been doing things to improve Mileage.
Took off my Mud terrains and put on highway tires. 285x17
Aligned the front end for best fuel mileage.
Cleaned my air filter
Checked fuel system tank to IP.
Changed oil Rotella T6
Changed Trans, xfer case fluid, front and rear diffs to synthetic
Removed lumber racks.
Installed the stock front air dam I removed many years ago.
Should help a lot. Just switching out to highway tires gives me 2-3 MPG on the freeway.
Havent checked mileage. But boost pressures going down the highway are 1-2 lbs lower now. That was my goal .
Less air= less fuel.
 

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With the high fuel prices. i have been doing things to improve Mileage.
Took off my Mud terrains and put on highway tires. 285x17
Aligned the front end for best fuel mileage.
Cleaned my air filter
Checked fuel system tank to IP.
Changed oil Rotella T6
Changed Trans, xfer case fluid, front and rear diffs to synthetic
Removed lumber racks.
Installed the stock front air dam I removed many years ago.
Should help a lot. Just switching out to highway tires gives me 2-3 MPG on the freeway.
Havent checked mileage. But boost pressures going down the highway are 1-2 lbs lower now. That was my goal .
Less air= less fuel.
What fluid did you use for the Trans, xfer case and diffs?
 

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Ive had to trim around mine... Twice... Sitting there with blown head gasket. Morale is low on getting back going.
 

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What fluid did you use for the Trans, xfer case and diffs?
regular Dex 3 in Trans and xfer. Mobil 1, 75-90 syn in diffs.
Fluids were due for a change. Because the trans and case were designed for Dex 3. I have always kept using it. Instead of switching to Dex 6. Which is synthetic.
 
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