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I picked up a tube of CRC limited slip additive for my 96 6.5 truck with the G80 3.73 out back.It has new gear oil in it but thought I’d pick up the additive.
 
Here’s a picture of the additive.
 

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Well, the fuel leak is back. I must have a leak somewhere else now...i know what I'll be doing on my day off tomorrow....[emoji35]

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Time to figure out what the ticking sound is.



Found a leak also.
Tomorrow I have to disconnect the IP lines, and then remove the valve covers. (Don't worry, I'm gonna replace every seal or gasket to be found.) Also debating to check the GP & injectors while everything is already removed.
 
Been a while since I have been on here!!! Glad to see it is still active and such 😁 So today, I Finally gift to start working on my purple truck again after a year of crap going on and life happening. So I decided to rip out the injectors on my purple truck and rebuild them finally. Last set I rebuilt was for my dually over 2 years ago and still hoping strong. So here I am again doing the same for my purple truck. Wish me luck!!
 
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Well, looks like there was a soft spot in the return hard line after all. Just behind where I cut it... of course. I think I'm going to bypass the hard line altogether from just forward of the lift pump to the FFM and same with the return line. Eventually, I'll get the tank dropped and check the lines back there too. Just no time to have the truck down right now. The fun continues. [emoji6]

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The saga continues. I cleaned up the hard line with some coarse sandpaper and there is no soft spot. The leak was from the hose. The 3/8 sells to be a little loose on there and the clamp is letting a little leak come through. I pushed the hose further onto the line and added a second clamp, but I'm still seeing a little weeping. I think I'll just have to get some AN fittings and adapters to mate up to the threaded fittings and bypass the entire hard line system forward of the lift pump and the coupler on the return line. Our i could just buy the new factory lines...i think I saw the pair for about $130 on rock auto. I was thinking about forcing some 5/16" fuel hose on there.... that would probably be the best first alternative as far as cost goes... I'm getting laid off again next week, so.... I'll have time.

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Well, you could just buy a new length of hose and clamps and replace the old ones. It most likely won't leak again in 20 years.
I replaced mine when I did the FFM upgrade, took me about 10min trying to sneak the new hose clamps on.
 
I picked up a tube of CRC limited slip additive for my 96 6.5 truck with the G80 3.73 out back.It has new gear oil in it but thought I’d pick up the additive.
Dont know if you know this or not but your not supposed to use additive with a G80. You should use just regular GL-5 oil. Here is a portion of a GM TSB stating what happens when it is used and what to use.

LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT (SERVICE INFORMATION) #91-4-109
SUBJECT: LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL (G80) LUBRICANT - (SERVICE INFORMATION)
VEHICLES AFFECTED: ALL LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH G80 REAR AXLE ALL YEARS
Some light duty trucks equipped with locking rear axles (G80) may exhibit rear axle chatter, especially when turning a corner from a stop.
This condition of alternate engagement and disengagement of clutches in differential assembly is usually caused by contaminated axle lubricant.
To correct this condition, drain and refill the rear axle with SAE 80W-90 GL5 (P/N 10950849).

The use of any additive in locking rear axles (G80) is not recommended. Rear axle additives are designed for use in limited slip differentials which are normally installed in cars. All light duty trucks equipped with RPO G80 make use of a locking differential and the use of additives will delay the engagement of the locking mechanism and may decrease axle life.
 
Thanks for the heads up on that.
 
Thanks for the heads up on that.
No problem. Another forum I'm on every once and a while there is a heated debate on what to use with what type of carrier you have. It is burned into my memory now lol.
 
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I appreciate the advice.I still have the unused tube of the additive here.Guess I’ll stick it back on the shelf since I lost the receipt....lol
 
Took her on her maiden far from home voyage since I put her back on the road. Everything went well, but there's still a stutter when going uphill with half a tank or less, which makes me think the tank sock is crudded up or there's crap in the tank.... either way, I'll have to drop the tank at some point. But overall it was a great trip. Only a couple hundred miles or so. Also had a giant commercial 2 door fridge strapped into the bed and we made good use of the 3 person seating in the single cab. [emoji16]
Going to Maine to pick up my car trailer in the morning.


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Yesterday I went up to Maine to fetch my 24ft enclosed car trailer from my sister's place. I was thinking about the stuttering/ misfiring issue and I made sure to keep the tank full. No problems on the way there. On the way back, I ran into the issue again with 3/4 tank and had to pull off just before getting home. Couldn't get the lift pump to run. Popped the tank cap and I figured out at least one of my problems....Obviously it's not a vented cap, regardless of what the parts guy said. Huge vacuum in the tank. I let her cool down for a while and started her back up after having fiddled with the lift pump connections. She started up and ran well enough to get the 5 miles home.
Today I did an oil and filter change, ordered a new lift pump, got a proper diesel cap off my buddy's junked 6.5, noticed a weeping brake line in the engine bay (to deal with later), and ordered my 2 gauge pod with boost and transmission temp from glowshift. I already have the boost bolt adapter for the upper intake and was going to use a junky boost gauge, but I decided to splurge.
Got 11mpg with a ~4000lb trailer. Not bad. And with the electric brakes, it was a breeze.


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Turned 300k this week :cool:

Traffic coincidently brought me to a stop right on the mark too. Kinda freaky

Speedometer Gauge Auto part Odometer Measuring instrument
 
Found out why the passenger window stopped working....I'll probably buy 2 new ones since the driver side is likely not far behind.... and yes, there's a piece of wood (from a crappy old window box planter) and a folded up carry out drink tray in the door holding the window up now. 😁😁😁
634670
 
Got left side valve cover removed today, trying to figure out what the ticking sound is at all rpm, especially at load.
I was hoping one of the nylon rocker arm retainers had snapped off, but lucky me they where all still intact. Debating to dig deeper and see if a pushrod is bent, or remove the turbo side valve cover.
Edit: What's the tolerances for the rocker arm side to side movement? Can re-produce a clicking sound on one of the rocker arms.
 
Yesterday I installed the new passenger window lift plate. Driver side was actually already replaced by p.o., along with the motor and regulator. A pleasant surprise.
Today, I went to Wally World and purchased a pair of 6.5" Scosche speakers for about $29 including tax. A little drilling and a little crimping, and voila! New door speakers. They sound great. I used only 3 screws to mount them, as the 4th was lining up with the motor and I didn't feel like repairing the 1st speaker and I couldn't have them mounted differently on either side. OCD at its finest. Just gotta replace the rears someday and it'll sound like a brand new truck.
And I've attached a beautiful picture of the temporary window support just before I removed it. I have no shame.
A new set of Firestone Transforce HT2 tires will be here tomorrow.
Sometime soon the installation of the GlowShift 2-gauge pod with boost and transmission temp will happen.


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Actually today I smelled coolant from my truck after driving it for 10 miles. There was no coolant visible on ground but the smell was there. Will have to perform a leak check on the cooling system and see whats going on.
 
New shoes!
Firestone Transforce HT2. I've been happy with the Transforce in the past on our commercial trucks. These did well for the 60 mile trip today.


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