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Putting on the dual thermostat mod. on my '93 today and will finish up the Peninsular intercooler install hopefully Friday. Did a full suspension rebuild already, and that was sure money, hard work and time well spent.
 

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Here's the manufacturer's website. They make both HT6 and SD7 types.
https://www.uacparts.com/Catalog/Index

I bought the kit, KT 4193, from Comfort Auto through Amazon. $140 for compressor, accumulator, orifice tube and a bag of seals and O-rings with all you need plus extras. They also pre-fill the compressor with the right amount of PAG.

http://amzn.com/B01BPEWT8A

I found something that I need on that uacparts website, Alpaclips. Seems like it's dealer only and I wasn't allowed to order it. Have you bought anything from them directly?
 

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Wheels.

The guy that owns the shop that painted my '93 about a yr. ago had a used set of those GM chrome wheels for a good price. They really made the old girl look good with the new paint.
 

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I've got the original turbo off my '93. I think it's either a GM3 or 4. Was working okay when I replaced it with the *******. This is the exh. pressure actuated wastegate type and you're welcome to it if you want it for what the shipping would cost.
 

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I've got the original turbo off my '93. I think it's either a GM3 or 4. Was working okay when I replaced it with the *******. This is the exh. pressure actuated wastegate type and you're welcome to it if you want it for what the shipping would cost.
"when I replaced it with the *******." Okay, when I replaced it with a turbocharger with a name that starts with "A". Moderator, isn't this getting a little bit silly?
 

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i was able to get Everything ready to go for my turbo and i bought the rebuild kit last night. if you still wanna get rid of it lemme know what the shipping is. seriously appreciate it. the only thing holding me back is the damn shaft lol.
I'm away from home for the next two days. I'll see what it'll cost to ship it when I get back home. What is your zip code?

Garrett
 

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That's fine. my zipcode is 54220. appreciate it!!
Sir, I just got back early and have found that my youngest son glommed onto my old turbo. He's in CT and I'm in NC. Wants to try and use it on a project truck. I'm so sorry about this and that I misled you. I wasn't aware the thing was gone until today.Censored
Garrett
 

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Ok, she's all apart, the threads on the nut and shaft aren't great but would still work, I'll take better pics after work. I'll take apart my other turbo too and send you both. Hopefully between the two you can make something work
Thanks for picking up the ball after my fumble with the missing turbo, Injectorsaurus.:thumb: Good bunch of folks here.
 

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That video is what I did today. The 4 bolts that the guy said would be loose and causing the looseness in the column, were not really that loose. Tightened them, and still had the looseness. It's only about 1 inch play, but it bugs me. It's not the column being loose at the lower dash mount bracket, it's in the column itself. It's a tilt wheel column. Guess I'll have to go to a junkyard and start shaking steering wheels to find a good column. Be advised that if you try to do the job in the video, that the cam for the dimmer switch operating rod, and the gear rack for the operating rod for the ignition switch are going to likely fall out on you. Kind of an aggravation to get back in correctly. Not shown in the video. Wasted a day on this job.
 

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I do not believ the column has to be totally stripped to tighten the bolts on the tilt bracket. You are almost there on the face of the video.
It s a common problem with tilt columns that once in while the bolts will work loose.
Yeah, I'm going to order the two upper column bearings, a new shift lever spring and the turn signal canceling cam/slip ring thing. Take it back apart when the parts come in and take more time. Had to get it back together last time as I needed the truck. Determined to fix this. It wasn't the tilt bracket bolts being loose though, which was a disappointment.

Upper bearings: item 31
Shift lever spring: item 70
Slip ring/turn signal cam: item 7.

If any of you guys want to tighten these bolts, items 61, be advised that item 24 and item 44 are going to fall out on the floor when you take the column apart. Go slow, maybe take pictures during disassembly.
 

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Possible loose steering column help.

Welded the broken upper bracket for my dipstick tube that I broke adjusting the tube away from the intercooler plumbing so I could pull the dipstick. Put a new o-ring at the bottom of the tube to fix an oil leak there. Had to replace the steering column, so replaced the last 3 glow plugs I hadn't done on the driver's side.
I had a badly loose steering column and there were several youtube videos of the most common problem and how to fix it. This one is pretty good:
If you take the video to about 22:25, those are the 4 bolts that usually need tightening to fix the problem. Didn't fix mine at all. Took it down this far twice, with no luck and decided to get another steering column. Found one on ebay, with new upper bearings for about $168 with shipping. So, I did an autopsy on the old column and took some pictures. I'm going to try to attach those and the GM parts breakdown ('93 pickup column). The 1st picture is the lockplate (item 68), with the ruined thrust washer (item 67) and the distorted lockring (item 66) as they are assembled on the column. The wave washer at the right (item 69), sits under the lockplate in the assembly. The lockplate is where the four bolts that the guy in the video tightened to fix his problem. My column had the ruined thrust washer and lockring holding the lockplate in and were in such bad shape that it allowed the slop in the column. Slop that was every bit as bad as the guy had in the video. The screws he tightened won't be any help if the lockplate they screw into isn't firmly held against the shifter bowl (item 71) and outer tube (item 73) by the thrust washer and lockring. The lockplate has ears that engage on the column outer tube (item 73). Shown in the next to last picture. The last picture shows the sorry state of the lockring. Just passing this on in case somebody goes to the trouble of tightening those 4 bolts in the video and it doesn't help. My advice is just get a replacement steering column and be done with it. That column is a spring loaded nghtmare to get back together.:shake:
 

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Got a hold of 3mm steel plates after searching for a good while, getting ready to fabricobble the frame back to one piece again.
It's probably easier to weld the plates on the outside of the rear wheel well frame, but I'm gonna do it from the inside since it looks cleaner. So that means I need to drop the rear left shock tower mount.
"fabricobble" :thumb: That's a keeper.
 

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Just knock the slag off and it'll be a thing of beauty. I'm sure of it.:thumb:
 
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DS glow plugs changed... all 8 are dead, so... gotta tackle the turbo side soon... I plug in at night and it starts fine.

Gotta change the relay too since I have to manually trigger glow time...
How did you burn out all 8, VS?
 

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18 yrs. old. Had a good long life. Peace be upon them.:)
 
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^^I spy... stock oil cooler lines^^

As prone as we all know bolts on exhaust components are to breaking, I've been soaking my crossover bolts and downpipe flange bolts with PB Blast at every oil change in preparation to try and avoid such. Not sure when I'm going to get the time/money for exhaust I want or if I'm saving myself any grief but I do know that fewer things bring a project to a screeching halt like a broken bolt head...
https://texacone.com/antiseizecompound.html

I think I posted this link above a few months ago, but not sure. I've been using this stuff for 47 yrs. On vehicle exhaust bolts and on the airliner turbine engine hot sections I worked on for all that time. (Retired now.) I_guarantee_you will never have another siezed/broken exhaust fastener ever again if you use this stuff when you put the exhaust back together. It's just that good. Local small aircraft airport may have the stuff.
 

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"Apparently China is too focused on improving human rights and has let their metering quality slide.":thumb: That's a keeper. Going to send it on to some buddies. Just my .02, but I'd get a better gauge.
 

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All of the rubber boots are shot, and the grease zerk fittings doesn't want to co-operate with the greasegun.
So the only logical thing to do is to replace everything. I hope I got the correct parts this time since everyone knows rockauto got no idea if any of their parts fits your truck.

I replaced all the same parts not long ago, and also the cab to frame bushings. They'll be as deteriorated as the rest of the suspension bushings. Good to see you're not going to use polyurethane bushings.
 

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Poly mount bushings has their use, but not on these trucks. Maybe engine bushing mounts, but that's about it.
Amen to that, brother.:thumb:
 

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Awesome. Figured it would be like that. I'm looking at doing a bed liner soon. Thank you very much.
You might check on Line-X spray on bedliners. I recommend them and don't work for them. They sprayed on a liner on my '93 C2500 18 yrs. ago. It had a small spot peel off, due to me loading a bad heavy generator into the bed that got away from me. Took the truck to the local Line-X dealer last year and they removed all of the old liner and sprayed a new one on. Gave me a rental car for two days. All warranty work and they flat treated me square.
 
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